'  rW  mm 


THE 


Horseman's  Guide  and  Farrier, 


A  NEW  AND  IMPROVED  SYSTEM  OF 


HAMIE  AND  EDUCATM  THE  HORSE, 


Together  with  Diseases  ami  their  Treatment. 


BY  S.  V.  R.  YORK. 


ALSO, 

A  TREATISE  ON  SHOEING ;  EDUCATING  CATTLE  AND  DOGS^ 

WITH  HINTS  ON  STABLE  MANAGEMENT. 


^TJBXJRIS^,    ISr.  Y. 
Will.    -T.    :M"oaes'    I^ixl^lisliiiTc:    TTott^ 
16  CLARK  STREET. 
1868.. 


REVISED  EDITION. 


THE 


Horseman  s  Guide  and  Farrier, 

,      A  NEW  AND  IMPROVED  SYSTEM  OF 

liamUiug  ami  ^tlufatittg  i\u  §m^t, 

Together  with  Diseases  and  their  Treatment. 
BX  S.  V.  H.  YORK. 


ALSO, 

A. TREATISE  ON  SHOEING;  EDUCATING  CATTLE  AND  DOGS; 

WITH  HINTS  ON  STABLE  MANAGEMENT. 


AUBUE^,  K  Y.: 

WM.    J.    MOSES'   PUBLISHING  HOUSE, 

16  CLARK  STREET. 

1868. 


TO  PURCHASERS. 

Persons  hioyiTig  this  ivorh  have  every  right  of 
using,  hut  no  right  of  teaching ,  or  transferring 
to  others,  the  booh  or  its  contents.  By  so  doing 
they  will  lay  themselves  liable  to  prosecution. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  A.  D.,  18G5,  by  S.  V.  R. 
YoHK,  in  the  office  of  the  District  Court  for  the  District  of  Vermont. 


PREFACE. 


The  writer  of  this  little  work,  entitled  The  Horse- 
man's GrUiDE  AND  Farrier,  has  made  it  his  con- 
stant business  for  a  term  of  years  of  teaching  one  of 
the  best  systems  by  which  to  handle  wild  and  vicions 
horses,  that  has  ever  been  introduced  into  the  United 
States  or  Canadas,  and  has  been  so  acknowledged 
by  all  that  have  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  the  sys- 
tem practically  illustrated  by  the  introduction  of  the 
most  vicious  horses  the  States  and  Canada  could 
produce ;  and,  having  a  familiar  acquaintance  with 
the  wish  of  all  lovers  of  this  noble  animal  —  the  horse 
—  he  brings  the  system  before  the  public  in  printed 
form,  so  that  all  who  favor  him  with  their  patronage 
may  be  benefited  by  its  perusal. 

But  in  treating  upon  this  subject,  I  am  well  aware 
of  the  difficulties  under  which  I  labor ;  I  am  con- 
scious of  the  fact  that  I  am  quite  apt  to  excite  the 
prejudices  of  men,  who,  having  managed  horses  to  a 
considerable  extent,  and  having  ways  of  their  own, 
with  which  they  are  satisfied,  are  likely  to  cry  hum- 
bug to  any  idea  which,  to  them  is  new  and  strange. 
I  am  also  aware  that  there  already  exists  in  the  minds 


of  many  intelligent  persons,  a  settled  opposition  to 
all  professionals,  whose  business  is  pretending  to 
teach  and  improve  the  horse ;  an  opposition  arising 
from  the  many  failures  among  that  class,  and  the  con- 
sequent damage  done  to  their  animals  by  being 
handled  by  such  men,  or  under  their  instructions.  I 
have  no  reason  to  expect  that  I  can  obliterate  these 
prejudices  at  once  ;  but  have  faith  to  believe  that  if 
I  am  given  a  careful  hearing,  and  my  advice  put  into 
practice,  I  shall  do  much  to  improve  the  opinions  of 
the  people  on  the  subject  of  the  "Education  of  the 
Horse."  I  do  not  expect  to  improve  their  opinion 
of  "Horse  Taming,"  —  not  at  all.  It  amounts  to  but 
little,  only  for  the  time ;  its  effects  are  only  momen- 
tary. The  distinction  between  taming  and  educating 
is  clear  and  positive,  and  cannot  be  gainsayed  by 
even  the  most  careless  observer.  I  think  I  can  make 
this  perfectly  clear,  if  you  carefully  peruse  this  work, 
and  practice  its  teachings.  1  have  devoted  my  time 
for  the  past  ten  years  to  the  investigation  and  study 
of  the  s abject,  and  feel  quite  confident  my  efforts 
have  been  of  value  to  the  public.  I  do  not  by  any 
means  claim  to  be  infallible,  but  speak  of  this  to  sat- 
isfy the  public  that  mine  is  no  system  picked  up  in 
a  day,  but  feel  that  it  is  the  result  of  incessant  labor 
for  years.  I  do  not  claim  all  of  the  ideas  I  advance 
to  be  original  with  me,  but  whether  they  are,  or  ideas 
of  others,  neither  are  recommended  without  first 
having  been  put  thoroughly  to  the  test  by  actual 
personal  experience.     I  advise  no  plan  which  I  have 


6 

not  successfully  tried,  and  found  to  be  valuable. 
There  is,  to  a  certain  extent,  a  moral  responsibility 
resting  upon  authors  of  works  of  this  nature,  which 
is  embarrassing  in  a  high  degree.  The  rules  which 
he  sets  forth  are  sometimes  deviated  from  without 
the  knowledge  of  the  operator  himself,  either  from 
his  not  clearly  understanding  the  meaning,  or  from 
his  having  too  carelessly  listened  to  the  instructions 
received,  or  perhaps  too  loosely  scanned  the  printed, 
and  the  desired  result  is  not  reached.  In  a  measure, 
this  leads  to  a  distrust  of  the  system.  Occasionally 
circumstances  may  arise  in  the  handling  of  the  horse, 
which  no  foresight  could  have  provided  against,  and 
if  the  operator  does  not  find  in  the  instructions  given, 
a  remedy  for  his  difficulty,  he  lays  it  aside  in  disgust. 
Nevertheless  I  submit  this  work,  confident  of  being 
able  to  be  of  great  public  service.  In  the  forepart 
of  this  volame,  I  shall  almost  exclusively  treat  upon 
the  education  of  the  colt,  and  the  treatment  of  his 
habits,  after  which  I  shall  speak  of  a  subject  which, 
in  almost  all  its  aspects,  needs  to  be  treated  from 
quite  a  different  stand-point  The  colt  is  impelled 
to  his  awkwardness  and  bad  habits  by  natural  im- 
pulses of  timidity  and  consequent  fear ;  while  the 
mature  horse  is  actuated  more  by  a  strong  self-will, 
his  habits  being  formed  through  mismanagement  of 
his  first  instruction.  Therefore,  the  rules  which 
apply  to  the  education  and  treatment  of  colts,  are 
not,  in  all  instances,  the  rules  necessary  to  be  observed 
in  the  education  and  treatment  of  the  Horse.     Such 


6 

governing  rules,  liowever,  as,  being  honest  with  the 
iinimal,  exercising  kindness,  forbearance,  firmness, 
and  perseverance,  apply  in  both  cases.  Now,  dear 
reader,  with  these  introductory  remarks,  I  shall  com- 
mence my  volume,  introducing  the  points  in  alpha- 
betical order,  endeavoring  to  so  fully  explain  that' 
none  need  go  astray. 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


To  Purchasers 2 

Pretace 3 

History  of  Celebrated  Horses  train- 
ed and  exliibited  by  S.V.  E,.  York    9 

Granite  State  Boy 11 

Royal  Gv'ore;e 11 

MaV  Flower 12 

Alarm 12 

Younjj  Columbus 13 

General  Remarks 13 

Fir.-,t  Step  to  be  taken  with  a  Wild 

Colt 23 

How  to  Halter-break  a  Colt 26 

How  to  Hitch  a  Colt  in  the  Stall 

the  lirst  time 27 

Handling  the  Colt's  Feet 29 

How  to  ride  a  Colt 31 

Bitiing  ih^'  Colt 34 

To  Ket  toe  Colt  used  to  the  Bit 37 

Harnessing  the  Colt  the  First  T.me  39 
Hitch  ng  him  to  the  Wagon  the 

F'irst  Time 40 

Hitchiny:  the  Colt  in  S.ngle  Har- 
ness to  Wagon,  First  Time 43 

Learning  the  Colt  to  Back 46 

Subduing  the  Colt 47 

How  to  Subdue  Vicious  Hoi'ses. . .  49 

Dim"usions  and  Use  of  Surcingle  50 

Castratmir 53 

How  to  Drive  Runaway  Horses..  54 

How  to  Drive  a  Kicking  Horse. . .  56 
Another  plan  for  Driving  a  Kicker 

in  H  iriiess 57 

How  to  Break  a  Kicker  in  Double 

Harness 58 

How  to  Use  a  Ba  Iky  Horse 61 

How  to  Break  a  Halter  Puller... .  63 
Another  and  Better  Plan  for  Break- 
ing a  Halter  Puller 65 

AKunaway,  Bolting,  or  Pluuging 

Horse 66 

Pawing  in  the  Stable 68 

Kicking  in  the  Stall 68 

Bad  Biters 69 

Bad  to  Harness,  or  Groom 70 

Rolling  in  the  Stall 71 

Getting  Cast  in  the  Stall 71 

Driving  on  one  Rein 72 

Hard  Pullers 73 

Carrying:  Tongue  Over  Bit,   and  - 

Out  of  Mouth 74 

How  to  Shoe  a  Vicious  Horse 75 

For  Teaching  a  Horse  to  Back,  or 

one  that  is  in  the  habit  of  Bolting  77 

The  Plan  for  a  Breachy  Horse. . .  77 


How  to  Catch  a  Horse  in  Pasture  79 
New  and  Latest  Im^jrovements  : 

Halter  Breaking 82 

Bitting  the  Colt 84 

Safety  Bridles 86 

On  Shoeing 94 

Clips 99 

The  Hind  Shoe 99 

To  Prevent  Overreaching  or  Click- 
ing  , .  100 

Interfering  with  the  Hind  Feet..  100 

Interfering  with  the  Forward  Feet  101 

The  Bar  Snoe 101 

Quarter  Cracks 101 

Teaching  Tricks 103 

To  come  at  the  crack  of  the  Whip 

or  word  of  Command 103 

To  make  a  Bow 103 

To  say  No 104 

I  o  Lie  1  >own 104 

To  Sit  Up- 105 

To  teach  a  Horse  to  Kiss  you 107 

To  Shake  hands 107 

How  to  tell  a  Horse's  age 108 

Jockey  Tricks 109 

Training  Steers Ill 

Training  Dogs 114 

Training  the  Shepherd  to  Drive. .  115 

The  Wat<;h  Dog 119 

The  Trick  Dog 121 

The  First  Step  with  the  Trick  Dog  121 

To  le  irn  him  to  Sit  Down 122 

To  Teach  Him  to  Make  a  Bow. . .  122 

To  Sit  Up 123 

To  Stand  Up 123 

To  Get  into  a  Chair 124 

To  Make  Him  Go  Lame 125 

To  Kun  on  His  Forwani  Legs 125 

To  Learn  Him  to  Find  Tilings. . . .  126 

Turf  Calendar 127 

Litest  n  nd  Fastest  Time  Recorded  129 
Stable  Management : 

Air 131 

Litrer 135 

Light 137 

Grooming 139 

Exercise 141 

Breeding 144 

Closing  Remarks 158 

Signs  of  Disease  in  the  Horse 161 

The   old   English   Horse  Farrier, 

Dr.  Tidball 167 

A  Brief  Dictionaay 186 

Rules  and  Regulations  for  the  Gov- 
ernment of  Trotting,  etc 199 


MJECIPES. 


1  Fistula  and    Poll  Evil  before 
Breaking 

2  After  Breaking 

3  Blue  Ointment 

4  Hooks,  or  "Weak  Eyes 

6  EjJ^e  Lotion 

6  Spavin    and  Itingworm   Oint- 
ment   

7  Hoof  Bound 

8  Hoof  Ointment 

9  Big  Leg 

10  Liquid  Blister 

1 1  Hoof  Evil,  or  Thrush 

12  Founder 

13  Lung  Fever 

14  Button  Farcy 

15  Water  Farcy 

16  Nasal  Gleet 

17  Chronic  Cough 

18  Cleansing  Powders 

19  Fits 

20  Jaundice  Yellow  Fever 

21  Nicking  Balsam 

22  Thumps,  or  Palpitation  of  the 
Heart 

23  Shoulder  Jam  or  Sweney 

24  Stoppage  of  the  Urine 

25  Physic  Ball 

26  To  Remove  Warts , 

27  Inflammation  of  Kidneys 

28  Stifle  Sprains 

29  Loss  of  Appetite 

30  Kestorative  Liquid 

31  Hoof  Liquid 

32  General  Liniment 

33  Sore  Mouth  or  Tongue 

34  Mange 

35  To  Stop  Blood 

36  Chest  Founder 

37  Melanders 

38  Soap  Liniment 

39  Opodeldoc 

40  Heave  and  Bone  Ointment 

41  Lockjaw 

42  Heave  Powders  to  Trade  on. . . 

43  Gravel  on  the  Foot 


Nicking 176 

Cure  for  Colic..... 176 

Big  Head 177 

Botts 177 

Gravel 177 

To  Remove  Scum  Irom  Eye  ...  177 

Weak  Eyes 177 

Wounds 177 

Scratches 177 

Sweating  Liniment 177 

Dope  to  Trade  On 178 

To  Remove  Callousness 178 

Fistula  After  Breaking 178 

Salve  to  Heal  Wounds 178 

Fistula  and  Poll  Evil 178 

Heaves 179 

For  Curbs 179 

Mud  Fever  and  Cracked  Heels.  179 
Cure  for  Ringbone  and  Spavin  179 

Physic  Balls 180 

Physic  for  Cattle 181 

Tonic  for  Horses  and  Cattle. . .  181 
Cordial         "  "...  181 

Diuretic  Ball 181 

Diuretic  Powders 181 

Condition  Powders 181 

Fever   Ball 182 

Sedative  and  Worm  Ball 182 

Anodyne  Ball 182 

Cordial  Astringent  Drench 182 

Blister  Ointment 182 

Powder  of  Anfjleberries 182 

Fever  Powder  for  Horses 183 

Astringent  Ball  tor  Horses. . . .   183 

Stomach  Purgative  Ball 183 

For  Fomenting  Swollen  Legs.  183 

For  Distemper 184 

To  Remove  Splints 184 

For  Worms  in  Horses 184 

Spavin  Preparation 185 

For  the  Eye 185 

For   Windgalls  and  Soft  Puflfs  185 

Thrtish 185 

Hoof  Rot 183 

Heave  Remedy 186 


HORSEMAN^S    GUIDE, 

AND    FARRIER, 


History  oi*  tlie  Celel>i*atetl  Horses  Xrained  and. 
Exliibited  l>y  S.  V.  K.  Yoi-lc. 

In  giving  you  a  history  of  these  celebi'ated  horses, 
I  consider  it  a  duty  I  owe  myself  and  the  public 
generally,  that  I  correct  a  few  misstatements.  Mr. 
A.  H.  Eockwell,  of  Broome  Co.,  N.  Y.,  in  his  pub- 
lication of  1865,  claims  to  be  the  first  teacher  that 
ev^er  gave  successful  exhibitions  in  driving  trained 
horses  without  reins.  He  also  claims  that  the  points 
introduced  for  training,  are  traceable  back  to  his 
system.  To  the  public  let  me  say,  I  had  been  teach- 
ing horsemanship  ( successfully)  for  two  years  pre- 
vious to  Mr.  Rockwell's  having  adopted  the  profes- 
sion. Mr.  R.  is  a  man  I  never  saw,  but  I  know  his 
history  well,  and  am  familiarly  acquainted  with  his 
system.  I  believe  him  to  be  a  gentleman,  and  as  far 
as  I  can  ascertain  he  has  been  a  successful  teacher,  and 
I  say  God  speed  to  every  man  who  is  laboring  to  in- 
crease the  value  and  usefulness  of  that  noble  animal, 


10 

the  Horse.  Yes,  any  man  who  gives  his  time  and 
energy  to  the  self-sacrificing  business  of  teaching 
rational  horsemanship,  should  be  a  man  entitled  to 
the  respect  of  an  intelligent  people.  But  when  Mr. 
Rockwell  claims  to  be  the  first  man  that  has  ever 
driven  a  trained  horse  without  reins,  I  know  he  is 
in  error.  In  1857,  Mr.  A?  H.  Tidball  —  a  partner  I 
travelled  with  some  three  years  and  a  half — trained 
and  drove  successfully,  a  spirited  stallion  called 
Granite  State  Boy,  before  the  Horse-Breeders  Asso- 
ciation at  Ravenna,  Ohio,  that  was  trained  under  my 
system,  which  is  different  in  every  feature  from  Mr. 
Rockwell's ;  after  which,  we  gave  successful  exhibi- 
tions through  Upper  and  Lower  Canada,  and  the 
lower  British  Provinces.  At  the  same  time  we  had 
under  training  Young  Royal  George,  which  was 
exhibited  through  the  New  England  States. 

In  1863  I  purchased  of  Mr.  Lovejoy,  of  Bethel 
Hill,  Maine,  a  thorough-bred  horse,  which  I  took  to 
Guildhall,  Vermont,  and  in  ten  days  from  the  time 
I  gave  him  his  first  lesson,  I  drove  him  on  exhibition 
before  a  large  crowd  of  people  at  Norwich,  Vermont, 
and  continued  to  give  public  exhibitions  until  the 
Spring  of  1865.  When  at  Cooperstown,  N.  Y,  I  sold 
him  to  Mr.  Jackson,  who  has  kept  him  since  as  a 
stock  horse.  In  August,  1865,  I  bought  of  Mr. 
Jonathan  Buell,  of  North  Eaton,  Washington  Co., 
N.  Y,  the  brown  colt,  called  Alarm,  which  I  now 
have  on  exhibition.  In  June,  1866,  I  also  bought 
of  Mr.  Benjamin  Cummings,  of  North  Brookfield, 


11 

Mass.,  Young  Columbus.  I  commenced  training 
him  the  2oth  of  July,  1866,  at  Bradford,  Vermont, 
and  now  am  driving  him  successfully  on  exhibi- 
tion, without  reins.  He  is  also  well  trained  as  a 
trick  horse.  I  only  had  him  under  training  one 
week  to  be  driven  double  with  Alarm  without  reins, 
when  they  made  a  graceful  appearance  in  the  streets 
of  Canterbury,  Connecticut,  amid  the  cheers  of  the 
throng  who  had  gathered  to  witness  the  feat. 

Alarm  and  Young  Columbus  (driven  together 
without  reins  )  for  beauty,  agility  and  perfect  obedi- 
ence to  the  requirements  of  their  driver,  when  on 
exhibition,  passing  through  crowded  streets,  avoid- 
ing vehicles  and  obstacles  of  every  kind,  stand  un- 
rivaled by  any  effort  of  the  kind  on  record. 

GRANITE    STATE    BOY. 

This  fine  mettled  horse  was  raised  b}^  Hiram  Drew, 
of  Mercer  Co.,  Pa.  Color,  coal  black;  weighs  1150 
pounds  ;  fine  style  and  action  ;  if  living,  is  sixteen 
years  of  age,  and  I  think  owned  in  southern  Ohio. 

ROYAL    GEORGE. 

This  fine  bred  horse  was  raised  by  Mr.  Arthur 
Brown,  of  Vonkleek  Hill,  Upper  Canada  ;  is  abeau- 
fiil  ba}',  with  black  mane  and  tail,  one  hind  foot 
white  ;  weighs  1075  pounds ;  is  twelve  years  old ; 
was  sired  by  old  Royal  George;  owned  by  Mr. 
Dorherty,  of  Caledonia,  Upper  Canada.  He  is  now 
exhibited   as  a  trick  horse  in  a  Circus  ring. 


12 


MAY   FLOWER. 


This  justly  celebrated  horse  was  bred  bj  Mi. 
Lovejo}^,  of  Bethel  Hill,  Maine  ;  his  color  white, 
(Jotted  with  dark  specks ;  mane  and  tail  white ; 
weighs  950  pounds ;  splendid  style  and  great  en- 
durance. He  was  sired  by  a  thorough-bred  imported 
horse;  his  dam  a  full  blood  Messenger.  Previous 
to  my  purchasing  this  horse,  he  had  been  under 
training  by  the  Rockwell  system,  taught  by  Mr. 
Magner,  which  failing,  left  him  more  vicious  and 
unmanageable  than  before.  He  was  a  bad  biter, 
also  a  willful,  bolting,  plunging,  runaway  horse,  and 
had  become  perfectly  unmanageble  by  Mr.  Lovejoy, 
of  whom  I  purchased  him.  In  ten  days  after  apply- 
ing my  system,  he  became  perfectly  tractable,  and 
was  successfully  exhibited,  as  above  stated. 

ALAEM. 

This  celebrated  Colt  was  raised  in  North  Eaton, 
Washington  Co.,  IST.  Y.,  by  Jonathan  Buell,  and  came 
into  my  hands  unhandled,  in  the  Spring  of  I860,  and 
although  but  three  years  old,  exhibited  an  alarming 
temper,  biting,  striking  and  jumping  at  any  one  who 
chanced  to  come  within  his  reach.  After  having 
been  under  my  training  two  weeks,  he  was  harnessed 
to  w^agon  foi  the  first  time  in  his  life,  and  driven 
without  reins  through  the  streets  of  Cambridge,  N. 
Y.,  to  the  astonishment  of  all  who  knew  his  history. 
He  was  sired  by  Kimrod  Morgan  ;  dam  an  imported 
English  mare.     He  now  stands  sixteen  hands  high, 


13 

weighs  1200  pounds ;  color,  a  beautiful  dark  brown. 
He  is  a  very  stylish  driver,  and  has  been  exhibited 
constantly  since  his  training. 

YOUNG  COLUMBUS. 
This  justly  celebrated  fine  mettled  horse  is  nine 
years  old  this  spring,  ( 1867 ) ;  stands  sixteen  hands 
high  ;  is  of  a  dark  chestnut  color,  and  weighs  1180 
pounds.  I  purchased  him  of  Benjamin  Cummings, 
North  Brookfield,  Mass.  I  gave  him  his  first  train- 
ing at  Bradford,  Vermont,  as  on  previous  page.  He 
has  entirely  given  up  his  willful,  vicious  habits,  in- 
herited from  his  celebrated  sire.  Old  Columbus,  who 
was  a  terror  to  his  keepers.  His  dam,  a  fast  trotting 
mare  sired  by  old  Membrino.  For  beauty,  style  and 
perfect  obedience  to  the  requirements  of  his  owner 
he  is  unsurpassed.  The  first  and  only  race  he  ever 
trotted  was  at  Barre,  Mass.     Time,  2  :  25,  to  harness. 


Oeneral  Remake. 

According  to  the  known  history  of  the  horse,  he 
has  been  the  friend  and  servant  of  man  for  nearly 
four  thousand  years.  All  classes  of  people,  from  the 
highest  rulers  and  warriors,  down  to  the  lowest  peas- 
ants on  earth,  have  shared  his  friendship  and  util- 
ity. The  horse  has  also  had  its  admirers  and  friends 
among  all  classes  of  men ;  even  the  poor  Arab  treats 
him  as  one  of  his  own  family  by  lodging  him  in  the 
tent  with  his  wife  and  children.  And  yet  his  educa- 
tion is  only  in  its  infancy. 

His  value  has  been  so  estimated,  from  his  first  sub- 


14 

jngation  to  the  present,  that  a  portion,  at  least,  of  all 
civilized  nations,  as  well  as  the  Indian  who  catches 
him  wild,  have  participated  in  the  pleasures  and 
profits  of  the  horse.  And  his  value  at  the  present 
time  depends,  to  a  great  extent,  on  the  knowledge  and 
skill  we  possess  in  using  him  ;  for  when  we  call  out 
the  finer  feelings  of  his  nature  by  kind  treatment,  we 
are  delighted  and  comforted  in  the  manner  and  wil- 
lingness in  which  he  renders.his  services  for  onr  bene- 
fit ;  while  to  those  who  know  no  other  way  of  govern- 
ing him  than  by  brute  force,  he  often  becomes  fretful 
and  vicious,  and  even  a  dangerous  servant ;  conse- 
quently, we  see  that  his  real  value  to  us  rises  or  falls, 
according  to  our  ability  and  manner  of  governing  him. 
He  has  been  imported  and  transported  from  nation 
to  nation ;  he  is  used  to  do  our  hardest  drudgery,  as 
well  as  to  pride  himself  in  honoring  kings ;  he  is  used 
to  convey  us  to  places  of  amusement  and  worship  ;  in 
fact,  there  is  no  vocation  in  which  man  is  engaged 
that  the  horse  is  not  made  useful  to  further  his  pur- 
pose. And  in  all  places,  and  among  all  classes,  we 
find  his  value  corresponding  with  the  state  of  society 
where  he  is  employed.  And  here  is  another  idea 
about  the  horse  which  is  worth  its  weight  in  gold,  viz  : 
his  cultivation  and  improvement  have  a  tendency  to 
promote  good  society.  For  man,  while  cultivating 
the  finer  feelings  of  his  nature,  (as  he  must,  in  order  to 
control  the  horse  properly,)  arrives  at  that  degree  of 
refinement  in  his  mind  which  is  so  necessar}^  for  a 
member  of  good  society  to  possess.     I  have  known 


16 

men  to  buy  a  pair  of  horses,  paying  from  three  to 
four  hundred  dollars  for  them,  which  was  considered 
by  many,  an  enormous  price.  The  purchaser,  after 
keeping  them  a  few  months,  would  sell  them  again 
for  double  the  price  he  paid,  to  the  astonishment  of 
those  who  considered  the  first  price  extravagant. 
This  may  be  attributable  to  the  dealer's  knowledge 
of  the  market,  and  his  skill  in  training  and  improving 
their  condition  while  they  remained  in  his  hands. 
So  we  see,  too,  that  the  study  of  the  horse  is  calcu- 
lated to  elevate  the  mind  of  men,  as  well  as  to  replen- 
ish his  purse. 

How  often  do  we  see  young  men,  whose  almost 
first  act  in  life  is  to  buy  a  horse,  and  sometimes, 
before  they  are  able  to  pay  the  purchase  money,  and 
even  part  with  the  last  cow,  and  every  other  valuable 
before  they  will  part  with  their  horse.  This  shows 
the  great  attachment  man  has  for  the  horse,  which 
can  be  traced  back  through  history  to  the  ancient 
nobleman,  as  well  as  the  wild  Arab.  This  will  be 
made  more  apparent  hereafter. 

Among  all  the  studs*  kept  by  the  ancient  noble- 
men, jou  will  find  that  there  was  scarcely  ever  one 
found  which  was  not  kind  and  submissive  to  his 
master ;  the  reason  of  this  was  because  their  mode 
of  governing  them  was  invariably  that  of  kind  treat- 
ment. The  passion  of  love,  in  all  animals,  when  cul- 
tivated and  fully  developed,  is  even  stronger  than 
that  of  fear. 

*A  collection  of  horses. 


16 

When  the  Arab  falls  from  his  mare  (observes 
Smith  on  breeders,)  and  is  unable  to  rise,  she  will 
stop  and  neigh  until  assistance  arrives  ;  if  he  lies 
down  to  sleep,  as  fatigue  sometimes  compels  him  in 
the  midst  of  the  desert,  she  stands  watchful  over  him, 
and  neighs  and  arouses  him,  if  either  man  or  beast 
approaches. 

Allow  me  to  give  place  to  the  following  anecdotes 
(which  are  well  authenticated,)  partly  to  show  the 
love  and  great  attachment  of  the  Arab  (as  well  as 
others)  for  the  horse,  as  well  as  that  of  the  horse  for 
his  master. 

An  old  Arab  had  a  valuable  mare  that  had  carried 
him  for  fifteen  years  in  many  a  hard  fought  bitttle 
and  in  many  a  rapid,  weary  march.  Although  eighty 
years  old,  and  unable  longer  to  ride  her,  he  gave  her 
and  a  scimeter  that  had  been  his  father  s,  to  his  eldest 
son,  and  told  him  to  appreciate  their  value,  and  never 
lie  down  to  rest  until  he  had  rubbed  them  both  as 
bright  as  a  looking  glass.  In  the  first  skirmish  that 
the  young  man  was  engaged  in,  he  was  killed,  and 
the  mare  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  enemy.  When 
the  news  reached  the  old  man,  he  exclaimed,  "Life 
is  no  longer  worth  possessing,  for  I  have  lost  both 
my  son  and  mare,  and  I  grieve  as  much  for  one  as 
the  other,"  and  he  immediately  sickened  and  died. 

The  following  comes  home  to  the  bosom  of  every 
one  possessed  of  common  feeling  :  The  whole  stock 
of  an  Arab  of  the  desert  consisted  of  a  mare.  The 
French  Consul  offered  to  purchase  her  in  order  to 


17 

send  her  to  his  sovereign,  Louis  XIY.  The  Arab 
would  have  rejected  the  proposal  at  once,  with 
indignation  and  scorn,  but  he  was  miserably  poor. 
He  had  no  means  of  supplying  his  most  urgent 
wants,  or  procuring  the  barest  necessaries  of  life. 
Still,  he  hesitated ;  he  had  scarcely  a  rag  to  cover 
him,  and  his  wife  and  children  were  starving ;  the 
sum  offered  was  great ;  it  would  provide  him  and 
his  family  with  food  for  life.  At  length,  and  reluc- 
tantly, he  consented  to  the  separation.  He  brought 
the  mare  to  the  dwelling  of  the  Consul ;  he  dis- 
mounted, and  stood  leaning  upon  her ;  he  looked, 
now  at  the  gold,  and  then  at  his  favorite  ;  he  sighed, 
he  wept.  "To  whom  is  it,"  said  he,  "I  am  going  to 
yield  thee  up  ?  To  Europeans,  who  will  tie  thee 
close  —  w^ho  will  beat  thee  —  who  will  render  thee 
miserable  ?  Eeturn  with  me,  my  beauty,  my  jewel ; 
God  preserve  thee,  my  beloved,  and  rejoice  the  hearts 
of  my  children ;"  and  then  sprang  upon  her  back, 
and  was  out  of  sight  in  a  moment.  Ah,  jockey, 
think  of  this ;  did  you  ever  part  with  a  favorite  that 
caused  your  wife  and  children  to  weep  ? 

Sir*John  Malcom,  in  his  sketches  on  Persia,  gives 
several  anecdotes,  but  of  a  more  amusing  character, 
one  of  which  we  wdll  notice  here  :  "When  the  enemy, 
returning  from  his  former  mission,  was  encamped 
near  Bagdad,  an  old  Arab  rode  a  bright  bay  mare,  of 
extraordinary  shape  and  beauty,  before  his  tent  until 
he  attracted  his  attention.  On  being  asked  if  he 
would  sell  her,  'What  will  you  give  me  ?'  was  the 


18 

reply,  'That  depends  Tipon  "her  age  ;  I  suppose  she 
is  past  five?'  'Graess  again,' said  he.  'Four?'  'Look 
at  her  mouth,'  said  the  Arab  with  a  smile..  On  exam- 
ination she  was  found  to  be  rising  three.  This,  from 
her  size  and  symmetry,  greatly  enhanced  her  value. 
The  envoy  said,  'I  will  give  you  fifty  tomans,  (a  coin 
nearly  equal  in  value  to  a  pound  sterling.)  'A  little 
more,  if  you  please,'  said  the  fellow,  apparently  enter- 
tained. 'Eighty,  a  hundred.'  He  shook  his  head,  and 
smiled.  The  offer  at  last  came  to  two  hundred  to- 
mans. 'Well,'  said  the  Arab,  'you  need  not  tempt 
me  further  ;  it  is  of  no  use.  You  are  a  rich  elchee  ; 
you  have  fine  horses,  camels  and  mules,  and  I  am  told 
you  have  loads  of  silver  and  gold.  Now,'  added  he, 
'you  want  my  mare,  but  you  shall  not  have  her  for 
all  you  have  got.'  " 

The  foregoing  is  a  very  humane  sj^stem  of  treating 
the  horse,  and  one  that  is  attended  with  the  best  suc- 
cess in  subjugating  all  horses  for  domestic  purposes  ; 
and  yet  there  is  another  method  by  which  they  may 
be  trained  and  subjugated,  that  no  less  shows  the 
superiority  of  man,  than  the  willingness  of  the  horse 
to  obey  him,  when  his  wishes  are  made  known  to 
h'im ;  without  medication.  The  domesticated  horse 
seldom  needs  anything  more  than  kind  treatment  at 
our  hands  to  render  him  obedient  to  our  commands, 
after  he  has  learned  what  we  desire  of  him,  for  his 
instinct  leads  him  to  love  and  obey  man,  although 
the  horse,  not  unlike  other  animals  in  this  respect,  is 
possessed  of  a  kind  of  wild  fear  of  man  (in  a  natural 


19 

state,)  that  must  be  overcome  before  we  can  success- 
fully proceed  to  learn  him  anything  else.  This  the 
Mexicans,  as  well  as  the  Indians,  accomplish  in  their 
way  with  the  lasso,  in  catching  them  wild  by  decoy- 
ing and  riding  up  to  a  herd  of  them,  and  throwing  it 
over  the  head  of  one,  (around  the  neck  of  the  animal,) 
and  then  follow  him  in  the  chase  until  he  is  choked 
down.  After  this,  he  is  not  hurt,  but  caressed  and 
talked  to,  when  he  is  hampered  and  led  to  camp 
without  further  trouble,  where  he  soon  learns  to  love 
and  obey  his  master. 

f'^j0^6-w,  I  do  not  expect  to  be  fortunate  enough  to 
make  myself  renowned  in  relating  my  experience  or 
observation  of  the  horse,  in  this  respect;  bat  trust 
mainly  on  the  merits  of  this  subject,  to  become  use- 
ful to  those  who  feel  an  interest  in  this  important 
topic. 

First,  the  horse  is  governed,  and  receives  his  in- 
struction through  the  five  senses,  viz.  :  seeing,  tasting 
hearing,  smelling  and  feeling;  the  one  of  seeing 
seems  to  rather  predominate.  But  the  most  of  these 
are  more  acute  than  even  man's,  for  they  partially 
supply  the  place  of  reason  in  the  animal.  Secondly, 
he  is  governed  ( like  all  other  animals )  by  his  in- 
stinct, which  is  combined  in  the  five  senses  ;  and  one 
of  the  qualities  of  his  instinct  is  to  fear  the  approach 
of  man,  whom  he  looks  upon  as  his  superior.  This 
is  more  especially  the  case  when  he  is  in  a  wild  state ; 
but  when  this  wild  fear  is  changed  to  love  by  kind 
treatment,  it  is  increased  an  hundi-ed  fold.     Another 


20 

of  these  is  to  love  and  olDey  man,  when  domesticated 
and  educated,  which  he  generally  does,  unless  his 
animal  propensities  are  aroused  by  ill-treatment ;  for 
it  is  an  undisputed  principle  in  the  nature  of  this  an- 
imal not  to  offer  resistance  to  our  wishes,  when  made 
known  to  him  in  a  manner  that  he  can  understand 
us  ;  and,  of  course  it  follows  that  this  must  be  done 
in  accordance  with  the  laws  of  his  nature. 

Man  is  not  only  placed  at  one  end  of  this  great 
chain,  but  he  forms  the  hook  that  hangs  it  up  on  the 
throne  of  Jehovah,  and  the  swivel  and  pivot  also 
upon  which  the  whole  turns  ;  and  it  extends  frGfcjp. 
thence  to  the  —  yes,  beyond  the  surface,  to  the  very 
center  of  the  earth,  and  the  bottomless  deep ;  and, 
notwithstanding  its  crooks  and  nooks,  and  all  its 
mysterious  windings,  there  is  a  current  of  electric 
life  running  through  the  whole  length  thereof,  that 
proceeds  from  the  great  battery  from  which  all 
knowledge  and  instinct  flows.  Man  stands  at  the 
head  of  all  created  beings,  for  all  will  tremble  and 
crouch  with  fear  at  his  approach,  except  when  attacked 
in  a  warlike  manner,  or  w^hen  thel'e  is  no  chance  to 
flee.  Then  if  man  is  placed  at  the  head  of  all  these 
it  shows  the  importance  of  his  studying  his  own  na- 
ture, and  if  he  arrives  at  the  highest  state  of  his  moral 
culture,  to  which  he  is  attainable,  all  the  better,  so  as 
not  to  abuse  the  power  invested  in  him,  and  enable 
him  to  turn  all  these  things  to  the  best  and  most 
profitable  account.  What,  then,  has  man  to  fear 
from  the  brute  creation,  when  he  becomes  acquainted 


21 

with  his  ability  to  gov^ern  and  control  them  all,  and 
when  he  sees  the  most  ferocious  beasts  flee  at  his  ap- 
proach ?  As  I  stated  above,  the  domesticated  horse 
loves  man,  and  I  very  much  doubt  whether  there  is  ' 
another  creature  on  earth  that  is  so  universally  be- 
loved b}'  man  as  the  horse.  They  look  upon  man  as 
their  friend,  and  when  in  trouble  will  run  to  him  for 
help  and  protection.  As  an  evidence  of  this  fact,  I 
need  only  relate  one  circumstance  that  I  witnessed 
with  my  friend  and  neighbor  in  Michigan.  He  had 
a  mare- that  owned  a  colt  about  a  week  old,  running 
in  a  field  wherein  was  an  old  well  fourteen  feet  deep, 
which  had  been  covered  witli  plank,  which,  by  some 
means  had  got  ofP,  so  that  the  colt  fell  into  the  well. 
This  happened  about  the  break  of  day,  and  before  I 
had  got  out  of  bed  I  heard  the  noise  and  clatter  of  a 
horse's  hoofs,  which  awoke  me.  This  was  followed 
by  a  loud  neigh  of  a  horse  at  my  door.  I  scrambled 
out  of  bed,  and  went  to  the  door  just  in  time  to  see 
the  old  mare  returning  towards  the  well  that  was 
some  forty  rods  distant.  Seeing  her  look  down  int(f 
the  well,  and  then  start  for  the  house  again,  I  antici- 
pated the  trouble  she  was  in.  I  summoned  help,  and 
started  for  the  well ;  but  not  without  being  met  sev- 
eral times  by  the  old  mare,  (who  seemed  to  be  almost 
frantic,)  as  if  to  hurry  me  on  to  the  place  of  disaster. 
When  I  arrived,  the  colt  was  splashing  in  the  water 
at  the  bottom.  I  immediately  got  him  out  with  the 
help  of  ropes  that  I  took  along  with  me,  when  they 
both  followed  me  back  to  the  house  ;  and  whenever 


22 

I  stopped,  the  mare  would  stand  by  me,  and  even 
lick  my  hand,  as  well  as  the  colt,  in  thankfulness  for 
the  assistance  I  had  rendered  her  in  rescuing  her  colt. 

But  to  return  more  directly  to  the  subject  in  ques- 
tion. I  will  proceed  to  show  what  man  shoiild  be  to 
accomplish  his  purpose  with  the  horse,  and  then  by 
what  means  he  can  do  it.  The  timidity  of  many  per- 
sons only  prevents  their  becoming  successful  horse 
trainers,  fully  equal  to  the  great  Damptius  of  the 
present  day.  It  requires  almost  a  reckless  courage, 
a  patience  that  never  tires,  and  a  temper  that  nothing 
can  ruffle.  With  these  requisites,  any  one  may  en- 
ter the  pleasing  labor  of  subjugating  and  educating 
the  horse,  with  almost  a  certainty  of  success.  All 
men  are  not  endowed  with  this  gift ;  though  any  one 
of  common  ability,  who  studies  the  horse  minutely, 
will  soon  learn  by  his  quick  perception  and  judg- 
ment, to  govern  the  horse,  notwithstanding  the  great 
difference  of  organization  and  temperament  that  be- 
longs to  this  animal,  which  does  not  always  consist 
^n  a  uniform  plan  of  operating  with  all,  but  must  be 
varied,  according  to  their  individual  capacities,  after 
subduing  their  wild  fear. 

This  is  a  stady,  which,  if  pursued  systematically, 
will  be  one  of  the  most  ennobling,  as  well  as  profita- 
ble branches  of  the  industry  of  breeders  and  the 
farmer's  occupation,  for  it  will  enhance  their  horse's 
value  at  least  one-half  ( in  some  cases )  by  rendering 
them  more  docile  and  safe  to  guide  and  handle.  In 
a  word,  the  man  should  be,  in  every  respect,  of  good 


23 

disposition,  and  the  law  of  kindness  should  be  fixed 
in  his  mind  as  the  kej-stone  of  all  snccessfnl  theories 
of  treatment  towards  the  horse,  and  we  should  look 
for  help  only  where  help  is  to  be  found. 


T3ie  First  Step  to  be  Talteia  witlx  a  <;olt. 

Go  to  the  pasture  and  walk  around  the  whole  herd 
quietly,  and  at  such  a  distance  as  not  to  cause  them 
to  scare  and  run ;  then  drive  them  very  slowly,  and 
if  they  stick  up  their  heads  and  run,  wait  until  they 
become  quiet,  so  as  not  to  frighten  them  ;  then  quietly 
pass  around  them  again,  and  gently  drive  them  in  the 
direction  you  want  to  go.  Do  not  flourish  your  arms, 
or  halloo,  but  quietly  follow  them,  leaving  the  direc- 
tion free  for  them  that  you  wish  them  to  take ;  thus, 
taking  advantage  of  their  ignorance,  j^ou  will  be  able 
to  get  them  into  the  barn-j^ard  very  easily.  If  colts 
have  always  run  in  the  pasture  uncared  for,  as  many 
do,  there  is  no  reason  why  they  should  not  be  as  wild  as 
the  deer,  and  require  the  same  gentle  treatment.  If 
you  want  to  get  them  without  trouble  —  for  the  horse 
in  his  natural  state  is  as  wild  as  any  of  the  undomes- 
ticated  animals,  though  more  easily  tamed  —  the  next 
step  will  be  to  drive  them  from  the  yard  into  the  barn, 
not  into  the  stable,  but  on  to  the  barn  floor.  This 
should  be  done  as  qaickly  as  possible,  so  as  not  to 
excite  any  suspicion.  The  best  way  to  do  this  is  to 
lead  a  gentle  horse  into  the  barn  first,  and  hitch  him  : 
then  quickly  walk  around  the  colt,  or  colts,  as  may 
be,  and  gently  drive  them  in  the  direction  of  the  door ; 


24 

seeing  the  horse  in  the  barn,  they  go  in  without  fur- 
ther trouble.  The  next  step  is  to  remove  the  quiet 
horse  and  shut  the  door.  This  is  the  colt's  first  idea 
of  confinement,  hardly  knowing  how  he  got  into  such 
a  place,  nor  how  to  get  out  of  it;  so  he  must  take  it 
as  quietly  as  possible.  See  that  everything  is  so 
arranged  that  he  cannot  jump  over  or  crawl  under; 
also,  a  clean  floor. 

Everything  is  now  properly  arranged  for  the  colt 
to  receive  his  first  lesson.  And  how  is  it  to  be  ac- 
complished ?  Some  individual,  unacquainted  with  a 
correct  sj^stem  of  handling  wild  and  vicious  horses, 
would  sa}^  the  plan  I  adopt,  by  w^hich  to  halter  and 
lead  quietly,  wild  horses,  would  so  frighten  them  it 
would  prove  a  failure.  But  quite  the  reverse.  Pre- 
pare yourself  with  a  good  spring- top  whip,  with  long 
switch.  Step  into  the  barn  ;  close  the  door  ;  all  is 
now  safe.  You  are  alone  with  the  colt,  nothing  to 
attract  his  attention  but  yourself  Stand  quietly  for 
a  f3w  moments,  and  he  will  eye  you  closely;  then 
take  your  whip  in  right  hand ;  give  it  a  sharp  crack  ; 
at  the  same  time  approach  the  colt,  so  tlie  distance 
from  him  is  the  length  of  the  w^hip,  and  give  him 
some  sharp  cuts  around  the  hind  legs,  and  under  the 
flank  ;  never  strike  him  forward  of  his  quarters.  Af- 
ter applying  your  whip  in  such  a  manner  for  about 
one  minute,  then  take  your  whip  in  your  left  hand, 
at  the  same  time  hold  out  your  right,  and  gently 
approach  him,  saying,  "  Ho  !  boy  ;  "  but  in  approach- 
ing him,  if  he  turns  and  runs  from  you,  again  apply 


25 


your  wliip  sharply  ;  then  again  approach  him  saying 
"  Ho  !  boy."  In  operating  in  that  manner  for  about 
five  minutes  he  dare  not  turn  his  quarters,  but  will 
stand  and  face  you,  and  you  can  lay  your  hand  upon 
his  neck,  pat  and  caress  him.  In  doing  so,  you  gain 
his  confidence,  and  when  he  follows  you  he  comes 
for  protection,  but  when  he  turns  to  leave  you,  he  is 
sure  he  will  get  punished.  By  using  your  whip  in 
that  manner  for  twenty  minutes,  he  will  follow  you 
around  the  barn  the  same  as  a  pet  dog,  keeping  his 
head  close  by  your  side. 

This  exercise  was  fully  illustrated  by  Mr.  Jonathan 
Smith,  of  Virginia,  which  is  thus  described  by  S.  W. 
Cole :  A  vicious  mare  w^as  given  him  to  tame,  which 
it  was  said  he  could  not  manage  unless  he  dealt  with 
the  devil,  for  she  was  a  wild,  skittish  young  thing, 
high  tempered,  and  disposed  to  kick  and  bite.  He 
ordered  her  into  a  barn,  and  then  entered  and  fast- 
ened the  door.  Before  she  had  time  to  survey  him, 
he  was  giving  her  the  lash  smartly.  Around  she 
went,  kicking  and  jumping  ;  no  rest  was  given  ;  the 
sweat  flowed,  and  she  slackened  in  her  movements. 
When  she  approached  him,  he  slackened  his  whip, 
held  out  his  hand,  and  said,  "  Come  along  ;  "  again 
she  was  off,  and  the  lash  applied.  This  was  repeated 
several  times  before  she  would  advance,  and  when 
she  moved  towards  him,  he  approached  and  patted 
her ;  and  as  he  moved  away  and  said,  "  Come  along," 
she  followed.  In  a  moment  she  darted  off;  he  ap- 
plied the  lash  smartly ;   she  stopped,  trembled,  and 


26 

approaclied  him.  He  patted  her  neck,  and  said, 
"  Come  along,"-  and  she  followed  him  several  times 
around  the  barn ;  when  she  lagged,  he  w^as  away  and 
the  whip  applied.  After  that,  she  would  not  remain 
two  feet  from  him.  He  ordered  the  door  to  be  opened, 
and  the  mare  followed  close  to  him  through  the  crowd, 
and  back  to  the  stable.  This  shows  and  proves 
clearly,  the  first  step,  and  only  correct  way  of  form- 
ing an  acquaintance  with  wild  and  vicious  horses. 


How  to  Ilalter-Brealc  a  Colt. 

.  Your  colt  is  now  brought  up  by  the  use  of  the  whip, 
and  follows  close  by  your  side.  The  next  step  is  to 
teach  him  to  lead  with  a  halter.  This  can  be  ac- 
complished in  ten  minutes  by  the  use  of  a  cord. 

Procure  a  cord  about  fifteen  feet  in  length,  and 
one- half  inch  in  diameter,  made  of  cotton,  or  hemp, 
cotton  is  preferable.  Make  a  knot  fast  at  one  end  ; 
at  the  other  make  a  loop  of  sufficient  size  to  slip  yonr 
haud  through.  Your  cord  is  now  ready.  Take  the 
end  that  has  the  single  knot,  place  it  around  the 
horse's  neck,  just  back  of  the  head,  and  get  the  exact 
size ;  tie  a  loop,  then  place  it  around  the  neck,  and 
make  it  fast  —  in  the  same  manner  you  would'  tie  a 
cord  around  your  cattle's  horns  to  make  them  fast  in 
the  stable.  After  which  take  hold  of  your  cord  one 
foot  below  your  horse's  neck,  pass  it  through  between 
the  neck  and  cord  that  is  fastened  around  his  neck  ; 
bring  it  forward  and  loop  it  into  his  mouth  ;  now 
take  your  hand  into  the  loop  at  the  other  end  of  the 


27 

cord,  and  you  can  control  him  as  you  please.  Step 
back  from  your  horse ;  do  not  get  forward  or  back  of 
him,  but  stand  to  one  side,  about  opposite  to  the 
shoulder  ;  at  the  same  time  give  him  a  sudden  con- 
vulsive pull,  and  then  let  your  cord  hang  loose.  If 
he  should  prance  and  jump  to  the  opposite  side  of 
you,  give  him  another  pull  the  same  as  before.  Do 
not  pall  your  cord,  thinking  to  drag  him  after  you 
by  steady  pulling,  bat  give  him  a  few  convulsive 
pulls,  after  which  let  your  cord  slacken ;  and  by  ex- 
ercising  him  in  that  manner  for  ten  or  fifteen  min- 
utes, he  will  very  promptly  step  up  by  your  side,  no 
matter  in  what  direction  you  may  turn.  Eemove 
your  cord,  buckle  on  your  halter,  and  you  can  lead 
him  quietly  just  where  you  like. 

nitcliiiig-  tlie  Colt  in  Sta,ll  the  First  Time. 

After  halter-breaking  your  colt,  it  is  then  necessary 
to  give  him  a  rest  before  working  him  farther,  and 
to  hitch  him  in  the  stall  for  the  first  time  observe  the 
following  rule  :  Examine  your  stable  very  closely, 
in  order  to  ascertain  that  there  are  no  loose  or  broken 
plank  in  the  floor,  also  see  that  the  rack,  manger, 
and  lining  of  the  stall  is  sound  and  all  right.  All  is 
now  in  readiness  ;  lead  him  quietly  up  to  the  stall. 
If  he  shows  any  sign  of  fear,  let  him  stop  for  a  few 
moments ;  talk  gently ;  also  pat  him  on  the  neck.  By 
so  doing,  yoa  will  dispel  his  fears,  and  he  will  quietly 
pass  into  the  stall.  Kow  for  the  plan  of  hitching 
him.      K  you  should  hitch  him  with  the  tie-strap,  as 


28 

is  generally  practiced,  some  little  noise  on  the  scaffold 
above,  ( such  as  scratching  of  hens,  or  the  like,)  would 
cause  him  to  scare,  pull,  break  loose,  and  soon  he  is 
a  confirmed  halter-puller.  The  plan  I  adopt  for 
hitching  the  colt  the  first  time  is  simple  and  effectual. 
Procure  a  piece  of  rein  webbing  fifteen  feet  in  length, 
or  a  strap  one  and  one-fourth  inch  wide,  of  same 
length.  Gret  the  centre  of  said  web  or  strap ;  now 
buckle  a  common  web  surcingle  around  his  body, 
just  back  of  the  shoulder,  then  lay  your  webbing 
across  his  hips,  carry  one  end  forward  between  the 
surcingle  and  body  on  the  left  side,  the  opposite  end 
between  the  surcingle  and  body  on  the  off  side  of 
the  colt,  the  centre  rests  across  his  hips,  the  ends 
carried  forward  ;  now  take  the  centre  of  ihe  webbing 
in  your  right  hand,  give  it  one  turn  over  ;  that  leaves 
it  crossed  upon  his  hips  ;  now  carry  the  center  back, 
and  pass  his  tail  through  the  loop  that  you  made  by 
turning  the  centre  of  the  webbing  over  —  the  same 
as  crupping  with  harness  ;  step  forward,  reach  your 
left  hand  through  under  the  colt's  neck  ;  and  tie  them 
snug  around  the  chest ;  next,  carry  the  end  of  your 
tie  strap  through  the  hole  or  ring  in  manger ;  bring 
back,  and  make  fast  to  the  webbing  that  passes  around 
the  chest.  Your  colt  is  now  made  fast  in  the  stall 
by  the  use  of  the  webbing  attached  to  his  tail ;  you 
need  have  no  fears  of  his  breaking  the  halter  or  in- 
juring himself.  Place  him  in  that  position  a  few 
times,  and  there  is  no  danger  of  his  ever  breaking  a 
common  halter.     If  jou  should  at  any  time  use  a 


29 

rope  in  place  of  webbing,  wind  the  crupper  part  with 
apiece  of  soft  cloth  ;  otherwise  you  would  injure  his 
tail.    This  phm  will  break  the  worst  of  halter  pullers. 


Ilandliug:  the  Colt's  Feet. 

I  consider  it  the  duty  of  every  one  that  raises  a 
colt,  to  prepare  it  for  the  smith  before  he  takes  it  to 
the  shop  to  get  it  shod,  for  manj^  yaluable  colts  haye 
been  made  almost  worthless  through  this  neglect. 
There  are  few  horses  that  may  not  be  gradually  ren- 
dered manageable  for  this  purpose.  By  mildness  and 
firmness  they  will  soon  learn  that  no  harm  is  meant, 
and  the}^  will  not  forget  their  usual  habit  of  obedi- 
ence ;  but  if  the  remembrance  of  corporal  punishment 
is  connected  with  shoeing,  they  will  be  more  or  less 
fidgety,  and  sometimes  ver}^  dangerous.  I  wish  that 
it  was  a  law  in  eyery  smith-shop  that  no  man  should 
be  permitted  to  strike  a  horse,  much  less  to  twitch  or 
gag  him  without  the  owner's  consent,  and  that  a 
young  horse  should  neyer  be  struck  or  twitched.  The 
plan  that  I  adopt  to  handle  the  feet  is  yery  simple, 
and  not  less  effectual.  By  adopting  this  plan,  your 
colt  can,  in  a  few  moments,  be  taught  to  stand  per- 
fectly still  to  be  shod.  As  soon  as  you  get  your  colt 
thoroughly  broken  to  the  halter,  get  a  strap,  or  a 
piece  of  webbing,  eighteen  feet  in  length ;  now  tie 
one  end  of  the  strap  or  webbing  around  the  colt's 
neck,  just  where  the  collar  comes  ;  work  it  well  back 
to  the  shoulder ;  you  are  now  standing  at  the  left  side 
of  the  colt ;  do  not  be  in  a  hurry — work  handy,  and 


30 

carefully,  be  very  uniform  in  your  words  and  acts  ; 
now  take  the  other  end  of  your  strap,  gently  pass  it 
back  between  the  forward  legs,  bring  it  through  to 
the  left  side ;  now  lay  it  over  his  back ;  with  your 
right  hand  under  his  chest,  you  can  draw  it  through 
again  to  the  left  side ;  now  place  the  end  np  into  the 
loop  around  the  neck  —  you  will  now  find  your  strap 
crossed  just  back  of  the  left  fore-arm  —  gently  raise 
the  left  foot,  and  lay  it  into  the  strap  that  comes  be- 
tween the  legs  —  the  outside  strap  is  wound  around 
the  ankle  ;  now  take  the  end  that  is  passed  through 
the  loop  around  the  neck  in  your  right  hand,  your 
left  holding  the  colt  by  the  head ;  you  will  see  that 
you  have  the  foot  secure,  with  no  possible  chance  to 
injure  himself  in  the  least,  as  the  whole  strain  comes 
over  the  back,  and  around  the  neck;  let  the  colt 
stand  until  he  attempts  to  free  the  foot,  but  if  you 
hold  him  firm,  he  will  soon  find  it  useless,  and  give 
up,  and  yield  his  foot  to  you ;  the  moment  that  he 
yields,  and  not  till  then,  relieve  him.  You  have  now 
fully  convinced  him  that  you  are  not  going  to  hurt 
him,  and  that  he  cannot  get  his  foot  from  you  ;  you 
will  have  no  more  trouble  with  that  foot.  Now  try 
the  right  foot  in  the  same  manner ;  handle  each  one 
thoroughly  ;  remember  that  it  is  just  as  necessary  to 
handle  the  fore  feet  as  the  hind  ones,  for  a  horse  that 
is  vicious  to  shoe  forward  is  more  dangerous  than  one 
that  is  bad  behind.  Now  handle  the  hind  feet. 
Have  the  strap  around  the .  neck,  and  between  the 
fore  legs,  as  before,  and  carry  it  back  through  the 


31 

hind  legs,  around  the  near  hind  leg  below  the  fetlock, 
and  bring  forward  through  the  loop  around  the  neck ; 
take  the  colt  by  the  head  with  your  left  h^nd,  and 
the  strap  in  your  right,  pull  back  on  the  strap,  which 
will  cause  the  foot  to  be  drawn  forward;  this  the 
colt  will  resist  by  kicking,  but  draw  tightly  on  the 
strap,  and  hold  him  firmly  by  the  head  ;  he  will  soon 
find  resistance  useless,  and  will  let  you  handle  it  as 
you  wish.  Now  step  to  the  right  side  of  your  colt, 
and  proceed  as  on  the  left ;  remember  that  you  must 
be  firm,  jet  kind,  and  ever  willing  to  submit  to  him 
when  he  does  to  you,  but  never  let  him  know  his 
strength  compared  with  your  own,  and  never  let  him 
know  that  he  is  the  strongest.  By  faithfully  pursu- 
ing this  plan  as  explained  and  demonstrated  before 
the  class,  I  am  confident  that  you  will  meet  with^he 
most  favorable  results.  Eemember  that  you  must 
be  particular  and  persevering. 


Xo  Ride  a,  Colt. 

You  have  gained  the  confidence  of  your  colt,  by 
the  use  of  your  whip  ;  now  be  very  careful  that  you 
do  not  betray  it,  for  if  very  wild  he  will  be  very  sus- 
picious, and  watch  every  move,  therefore  it  is  very 
important  that  j^ou  are  uniform  in  all  your  acts  and 
words.  The  old  fashion  plan  of  riding  the  colt,  I 
think,  very  wrong.  I  well  remember  of  -  attempting 
to  ride  a  colt  under  the  directions  of  an  old  experi- 
enced horseman.  I  was  placed  upon  the  colt's  back 
while  he  was  rearing  and  plunging,  and  the  next  mo- 
*2 


32 

ment  found  myself  standing  on  my  head  in  the  snow, 
some  three  rods  from  the  colt,  and  after  making  seve- 
ral useless  attempts  to  mount  him,  gave  it  up  as  a  bad 
job,  while,  by  adopting  the  present  plan,  in  a  few 
moments  the  colt  could  have  been  ridden  with  perfect 
safety,  just  where  we  wished  to  go,  and  if  this  plan  is 
faithfully  pursued,  I  am  sure  that  any  colt  can  be 
mounted,  and  rode,  in  a  few  moments,  without  incur- 
ring the  risk  of  being  pitched  upon  your  head,  and 
learning  your  colt  a  habit  that  will  be  dangerous,  as 
well  as  very  unpleasant.  I  say  this  with  great  con- 
fidence, for  during  nine  years'  experience  with  the 
wildest  colts  that  could  be  produced,  it  has  never 
failed  in  a  single  case.  Before  you  attempt  to  mount 
a  colt,  it  is  very  important  that  you  teach  him  the 
word  whoa^  which  I  claim  to  be  the  most  important 
word  in  horsemanship,  and  if  you  wish  your  horse  to 
learn  and  obey  a  word,  you  must  first  learn  him  the 
meaning  of  that  word,  and  then  only  make  use  of  it 
when  you  want  him  to  stop.  Never  use  the  word 
whoa  to  call  your  horse's  attention  in  the  stable,  as 
many  persons  do,  such  as,  ^^whoa^  get  over ;  whoa^ 
hack  ;  whoa^  come  here^^  etc.,  until  the  horse  gets  com- 
pletely ccnfused  with  the  word,  and  cannot  compre- 
hend your  meaning.  Hence  the  necessity  of  being 
uniform  in  word  and  act.  In  fact,  if  you  wish  your 
horse  to  understand  and  obey  you,  you  must  always 
be  honest,  with  him  —  never  tell  him  what  you  do  not 
mean  —  never  deceive  him  under  any  circumstances, 
but  gain  his  confidence,  and  never  betray  it.     I  would 


just  as  soon  think  of  betraying  the  confidence  of  my 
brother  man,  as  the  horse  I  was  training.  In  teach- 
ing your  horse  tlie  word  wlioa^  take  a  strap,  six  or 
eight  feet  in  length,  lay  it  across  his  back  to  the  right 
side,  fasten  to  the  ankle  of  the  right  foot,  holding  the 
strap  in  your  right  hand,  the  left  on  the  halter  or 
bridle ;  now  lead  the  colt  a  few  steps  and  saj^  whoa^ 
at  the  same  time  pull  on  the  strap,  which  will  throw 
him  on  three  legs,  and  suddenly  bring  him  to  a  stop, 
and  in  a  very  short  time  teach  him  that  the  word 
lohoa  means  to  stop.  After  educating  your  colt  thor- 
oughly in  this  manner,  then  attempt  to  mount  him 
by  placing  your  knee  to  his  side,  just  back  of  the 
forearm,  and  draw  yourself  gradually  to  his  back ; 
if  he  should  attempt  to  move,  pull  on  the  strap, 
using  the  word  whoa^  and  he  will  soon  think  more  of 
his  foot  than  of  you,  for  he  cannot  think  of  both  at 
the  same  time,  as  it  is  impossible  for  a  horse  to  think 
of  two  things  at  once.  You  must  now  be  very  care- 
ful ;  do  not  try  to  work  fest,  and  do  not  be  in  a  hurry, 
for  you  will  frighten  him  with  your  quick,  hasty 
moves.  If  you  will  work  slowly  for  five  minutes, 
you  will  be  on  his  back,  and  he  will  show  no  dispo- 
sition to  dismount  you.  I  feel  confident  in  your  suc- 
cess, for  I  have  never  failed  in  mounting  the  worst 
that  could  be  brought,  in  half  that  time.  Move  slow 
and  careful  until  you  get  yoar  right  leg  over  his 
back,  and  in  the  same  gentle  manner  get  into  an  up- 
right position.  You  now  have  your  bridle  reins  in 
your  left  hand,  the  strap  in  your  right,  which  is  at- 


34 

tached  to  the  foot,  and  if  he  attempts  to  make  a 
wrong  move,  the  word  whoa^  and  a  pull  at  the  strap, 
will  make  all  right.  Bear  in  mind,  however,  that 
there  is  a  great  difference  in  the  temper  and  intelli- 
gence of  colts,  some  being  quick  to  learn,  while  others 
are  very  stupid.  Remember  that  the  more  dull  and 
stupid  the  subject,  the  more  need  of  patience  and 
perseverance,  always  bearing  in  mind  that  you  are  a 
man,  and  are  dealing  with  a  dumb  brute  —  that  if 
you  are  not  capable  of  controlling  yourself,  you  cer- 
tainly are  not  capable  of  controlling  a  poor  dumb 
brute.  Your  colt  will  now  allow  you  to  mount  and 
dismount  at  pleasure.  You  cannot  expect  him  to  be 
handy  to  the  rein  until  after  he  is  properly  bitted, 
which  is  the  next  step  with  the  colt. 


Sitting  tlie  Colt. 

When  I  speak  of  bitting  the  colt,  I  do  not  expect 
the  first  lesson  to  give  a  lofty,  easy,  graceful  carriage 
of  the  head ;  it  requires  some  few  days  driving  to  so 
develop  the  muscles  of  the  neck  to  carry  it  easy  and 
graceful  without  tiring  him.  The  first  lesson  in  bit- 
ting is  to  educate  him  to  come  to  the  rein  quick  and 
handy ;  that  is  readily  accomplished  by  the  use  of 
what  is  denominated  a  Mexican  tie,  which  is  simply 
a  cotton  or  hemp  cord. 

Mr.  Tidball,  the  originator  of  this,  used  a  hair  cord, 
but  finding  that  too  severe  for  a  colt  with  a  very  sen- 
sitive mouth,  I  concluded  the  cotton  or  hemp  better ; 
cotton  is  preferable.     Now,  dear  reader,  let  me  say 


35 

to  you  that  this  cord,  if  properly  used,  is  very  valua- 
ble; if  not  used  judiciously,  it  is  dangerous,  and 
would  have  a  bad  effect.  It  is  one  of  the  most  power- 
ful instruments  for  controlling  the  mouth,  ever  made 
public.  Now  then,  for  its  practical  use.  Procure  a 
halt  inch  cotton  cord  about  fifteen  feet  in  len'gth,  tie 
a  knot  in  each  end,  pass  the  end  through  twice,  so 
the  knot  will  not  slip  ;  (a  single  tie  is  apt  to  slip  out;) 
in  one  end  make  a  loop  about  four  inches  in  diame- 
ter, or  one  that^'ou  can  pass  your  hand  through  easy. 
This  loop  should  be  tied  with  a  sailor's  bow-line 
knot,  which  is  made  thus  :  Hold  both  hands  well  out 
from  you ;  take  one  end  of  the  cord  in  your  right 
hand  between  the  thumb  and  forefinger,  the  end  from 
you  and  the  main  rope  extending  toward  you  in  the 
palm  of  the  hand,  and  lying  across  the  little  finger, 
the  palm  being  up  ;  hold  out  your  left  hand  with  the 
palm  up;  lay  the  rope  across  the  forefinger  of  the  left 
hand,  and  draw  it  towards  you  through  the  palm 
until  it  is  drawn  through  about  two  feet  from  the 
end  you  hold  in  your  right  hand  ;  with  your  right, 
wind  the  cord  once  round  and  close  to  the  left ;  pass 
the  end  you  hold  ia  your  right  under  the  cord  on 
the  back  of  your  left  hand,  passing  it  from  the  wrist 
towards  the  forefinger,  and  drawing  it  through  about 
three  inches,  leaving  the  desired  loop  hanging  below, 
keeping  the  palm  of  the  left  hand  up ;  pass  the  end 
with  the  right  hand  under  the  cord  beyond  and  out- 
side of  your  left,  .passing  it  from  right  to  left ;  then 
bring  it  back  over  the  cord  on  the  back  of  your  left 


36 

hand,  passing  it  from  the  fingers  towards  the  wrist, 
barely  passing  the  knot  on  the  end  through  ;  with 
the  right  hold  firmly  upon  the  end,  and  the  loop 
which  was  left  hanging  when  you  passed  the  end 
three  inches  through  ;  withdraw  your  left  hand,  and 
with  it  take  hold  of  the  main  rope  and  draw  the  knot 
tight.  You  may  think  the  directions  for  tying  this 
knot  rather  a  complicated  affair,  but  study  the  in- 
structions given  carefully,  and  you  will  have  but  little 
difl&culty ;  however,  if  you  should  fail  in  the  first 
attempt,  try  again ;  two  or  three  times  trj^ing,  you 
will  succeed.  The  small  loop  is  not  used  for  bitting, 
but  as  you  will  see,  is  used  for  different  purposes  in 
handling  the  horse.  Now  for  the  other  end  of  the 
cord  as  used  for  bitting.  Take  the  other  end  of  the 
cord,  pass  it  around  the  neck  of  the  colt,  about  mid-, 
way  between  the  ears  and  shoulder,  and  get  the  size 
of  the  neck,  then  remove  from  the  neck,  and  tie  a 
bow-line  knot,  the  same  as  directions  for  small  loop  ; 
now  slip  it  over  the  colt's  head,  and  back  on  his  neck 
as  far  as  practicable ;  with  your  right  hand  take  hold 
of  the  cord  about  eighteen  inches  below  the  neck, 
and  carry  it  through  between  the  loop  and  neck  for- 
ward, and  place  the  running  loop  so  formed  into  the 
colt's  mouth ;  now  you  have  him  in  the  position  for 
bitting.  Take  hold  of  the  cord  that  hangs  down  from 
the  loop  around  the  neck,  in  your  right  hand  ;  step 
directly  in  front  of  the  colt,  place  your  left  hand 
upon  his  nose,  gently  pull  upon  the  cord  with  your 
right  hand ;  with  your  left  press  against  his  nose. 


37 

You  see,  by  gently  pulling  with  your  right,  and  push- 
ing with  your  left,  you  carry  his  nose  back  in  the 
direction  of  his  chest ;  that  position  gives  him  an 
arched  neck,  that  is  the  first  position  of  the  head  ; 
the  second  is  to  carry  his  head  well  up ;  to  accom- 
plish this,  it  is  necessary  to  step  about  four  feet  in 
front  of  your  colt's  head,  with  the  cord  in  your  right 
hand,  and  give  a  light  pull  forward-  and  upward, 
saying,  hold  up  your  head,  sir,  another  pull,  at  the 
same  time  repeating  the  word,  (hold  up  your  head.) 
The  next  move  is  to  educate  him  to  come  to  the  rein 
quick  to  the  right  and  left ;  now  with  your  cord  step 
to  the  left  side  of  the  colt  (eight  or  ten  feet  back)  and 
give  him  a  sudden  pull,  and  then  to  the  right  side, 
and  give  him  another  pull  with  the  cord.  By  repeat- 
ing the  lesson  about  twenty  minutes  each  day,  for 
three  or  four  days,  your  colt  is  well  bitted ;  he  will 
come  to  the  rein  quick  and  handy.  The  next  is  to 
make  him  acquainted  with  the  bit. 


To  ^et  the  Colt  it«»ed  to  tlie  Bit. 

Nothing  is  more  desirable  tlian  to  have  a  horse 
carry  his  head  and  neck  gracefully.  To  effect  a 
graceful  carriage  of  a  horse's  head  and  neck,  various 
apparatus  have  been  devised  —  one  of  which  is  the 
common  old-fashioned  bitting  harness,  and  I  must 
say  I  am  bitterly  opposed  to  its  use.  The  practice 
which  has  been  adopted  b}^  most  farmers,  of  placing 
the  bitting  harness  on  the  horse,  and  buckling  up 
his  head  as  high  as  they  well  can — also,  drawing 


38   . 

the  side  straps  very  short,  and  then  turning  him  out 
in  a  pasture  field,  is  not  only  cruel,  but  it  gives  a 
very  ungraceful  stiffness  to  the  horse's  neck.  How 
often  it  has  been  the  case  where  horses,  turned  out  in 
such  a  position,  have  reared  and  thrown  themselves 
upon  the  ground,  struck  the  head  upon  a  log,  stone 
or  some  other  hard  substance,  and  lost  their  life  !  In 
the  first  place,  put  your  cord  around  your  horse's 
neck,  and  into  the  mouth,  just  as  recommended  for 
bitting  the  colt.  Lead  your  horse  out  of  the  stable ; 
let  your  cord  be  about  fifteen  feet  in  length  ;  take 
your  whip  in  the  right  hand ;  touch  him  lightly  on 
the  quarters  with  the  whip,  and  occasionally  give 
him  a  pull  with  the  cord,  but  in  doing  so,  if  he  should 
attempt  to  approach  you,  wave  your  whip  to  keep 
him  the  proper  distance ;  and  as  often  as  he  drops 
his  head,  give  him  a  sudden  pull  with  your  cord, 
which  will  cause  him  to  keep  his  head  in  a  proper 
position.  Give  him  a  lesson  of  this  kind  about  fif- 
teen minutes  each  day  for  three  or  four  days,  after 
which  get  prepared  a  heavy  surcingle.  This  is  placed 
around  your  horse  with  a  crotch  made  the  same  as 
the  end  of  a  common  sawbuck.  This  is  fastened, 
and  placed  on  the  top  of  the  surcicle  and  riveted  fast, 
leaving  the  top  ends  about  two  feet  above  the  horse's 
back,  with  inch  buckles  attached.  Your  bridle  is 
now  put  on  with  open  reins,  the  end  of  each  fastened 
to  the  buckles  above.  Have  no  side  reins,  but  lead 
him  out  with  your  cord,  as  before.  When  he  at- 
temp'ts  to  crowd  on  the  bit,  a  little  pull  will  put  him 


39 

in  a  right  position.  When  the  horse  has  become 
somewhat  used  to  the  bit,  you  should  buckle  the 
stays  a  little  shorter,  and  let  him  wear  it  so  for  a 
short  time.  He  will  soon  find  out  that  he  cannot 
lower  his  head,  and,  as  his  mouth  will  be  rather  ten- 
der, he  will  naturally  raise  his  head  to  take  off  the 
pressure  of  tae  bit  from  his  mouth.  You  thus  give 
voluntary  exercise  to  the  muscles  of  the  neck,  and 
in  a  short  time  it  becomes  natural  and  easy  for  the 
horse  to  carry  his  head  well  up.  Every  time  you 
put  on  the  bitting,  you  can  shorten  your  straps  a  lit- 
tle, until  he  carries  his  head  in  the  right  position. 


Sai^nessiiig;  tlie  Colt  for  tlie  First  Xime. 

If  the  colt  is  shy  about  allowing  you  to  put  on  the 
harness,  upon  backing  him  out  of  the  stall  first  put 
the  cord  around  his  neck,  with  running  loop  in  the 
mouth,  (  same  as  for  bitting )  and  give  him  a  sharp 
pull  side  wise,  at  the  same  time  repeat  the  word  whoa, 
also  gently  pat  him  upon  the  neck.  Now  lead  him 
to  the  place  on  the  barn  floor  where  you  wish  to  have 
him  stand  while  harnessing,  quietly  take  down  your 
harness  from  the  pegs ;  if  the  colt  m.oves  from  his 
position,  lay  down  your  harness  and  give  him  two 
or  three  more  sharp  pulls  with  the  cord,  at  the  same 
time,  with  a  firmness,  repeat  the  word  whoa ;  do  not 
speak  too  loud,  be  careful  in  pulling  him  around  not 
to  hurt  him  ;  a  few  pulls  with  the  cord,  patting  and 
caressing  about  the  neck  and  face,  frequently  repeat- 
ing the  word  whoa,  will  so  quiet  him,  that  you  will 


40 

have  no  farther  trouble.  I  well  know  this  operation 
requires  a  little  time  and  patience.  When  the  har- 
ness is  well  on,  take  it  off  and  repeat  the  process  un- 
til he  will  allow  you  to  harness  him  without  scring- 
ing. In  bridling  the  colt,  observe  the  same  rules  with 
cord  as  for  harnessing ;  with  your  cord  lead  him 
around  the  yard  for  half  an  hour,  to  acquaint  him 
with  the  moving  of  the  straps  and  the  feeling  of  har- 
ness in  his  unaccustomed  position.  If  he  should 
attempt  to  escape,  one  pull  with  the  cord  will  bring 
him  to  you  in  a  moment.  After  a  little  time,  you 
may  commence  driving  him  with  the  reins ;  take  the 
precaution  to  attach  your  webbing  to  the  ankles  of 
the  left*  forward  foot ;  bring  it  back  between  the  girth 
and  body  of  the  colt ;  hold  it  in  your  hands  as  a  third 
rein ;  if  he  should  attempt  to  run,  pull  upon  your  web- 
bing ;  take  his  left  foot  from  him  ;  that  leaves  him  on 
three  feet,  and  in  your  power,  at  the  time  repeating 
the  word  whoa  ;  that  brings  him  to  a  stop.  A  lesson 
of  two  or  three  hours  each  day  for  three  or  four  daj^s, 
turning  him  in  different  directions,  to  stop  and  go  at 
the  word,  impressing  upon  his  mind  that  your  are  his 
superior,  and  can  control  him  at  pleasure,  and  he  is 
now  ready  for  hitehing  in  harness  for  the  first  time. 


Hitcliing  tlie  Colt  to  IVsLgon  tlie  First  Time. 

In  hitching  the  colt  to  wagon  the  first  time,  I  think 
it  a  far  better  and  safer  plan  to  hitch  him  in  double 
harness,  beside  a  well  broke  horse,  also,  on  the  off* 
side  ;  and  why  ?    The  first  handling  your  colt  receives 


41 

has  been  mostly  upon  the  near  side,  consequently  he 
being  on  the  off  side,  and  the  broke  horse  on  the 
near  side,  where  the  colt  had  received  his  first  lesson, 
he  would  not  be  as  apt  to  scringe,  as  he  would  be  to 
place  the  near  horse  on  the  off  side.  Again,  should 
an  accident  occur  to  cause  you  to  jump  from  your 
wagon,  it  would  be  more  natural  for  j'ou  to  jump  to 
the  near  side,  and  in  stopping  jour  team  it  is  more 
natural  to  get  out  on  the  near  side.  The  harness  be- 
ing on  both  horses,  you  will  now  proceed  to  hitch 
them  to  wagon.  In  doing  this,  it  will  be  necessary 
to  have  some  one  to  assist  you.  Let  your  assistant 
lead  the  broke  horse  to  the  near  side  of  the  pole ; 
next  place  your  colt  to  the  off  side ;  let  the  person 
helping  you,  hold  the  colt  b}^  the  head  while  you  are 
buckling  the  reins,  hitching  the  tugs,  and  placing  the 
webbing  or  long  line  to  the  ankle  of  the  left  forward 
foot;  perhaps  it  would  be  better  to  buckle  a  short 
strap  around  the  pastern,  with  ring  attached,  to 
guard  against  chafing.  To  be  more  fully  understood, 
we  will  explain  how  it  is  made :  Take  a  soft  leather 
strap,  one  inch  and  a  half  wide,  and  ten  inches  long, 
with  the  inside  edges  shaved  thin  ;  then  take  a  stra,p 
of  firm  leather,  fifteen  inches  long,  and  one  inch  wide  ; 
on  one  end  place  a  buckle  and  loop,  with  a  lap  of 
two  inches  on  the  under  side  ;  in  the  other  end  punch 
holes  for  the  buckle  tongue ;  place  the  inch  strap  on 
the  outside  of  the  wide  strap,  in  the  centre,  with  one 
end  extending  one  inch  beyond  the  buckle  ;  then 
stitch  the  two  together,  commencing  at  the  buckle, 


42 

and  stitcMng  two  inches,  having  the  loop  prettj'-  close 
to  the  buckle  ;  then  slip  a  one  and  one-half  inch  ring 
over  the  outer  strap,  close  up  to  the  stitchiug ;  then 
proceed  with  the  stitching,  and  close  up.  This  finishes 
the  strap,  which  is  to  buckle  around  the  ankle  of  the 
forward  foot.  A  strap  or  webbing  fifteen  feet  in 
length  is  buckled  or  tied  in  the  ring,  and  carried  be- 
tween the  girth  and  the  body  of  the  colt,  and  back 
into  the  wagon,  holding  it  with  the  lines  in  your 
hands.  All  is  now  ready ;  start  up  slowly,  stopping 
occasionally,  while  on  the  walk,  pronouncing  the 
word  "  whoa,"  at  the  same  time  pulling  up  on  the 
foot  strap.  You  will  at  once  perceive  that  you  have 
the  most  perfect  control  over  the  colt's  movements. 
Should  he  attempt  to  run,  catch  his  foot  and  bring 
him  to  a  stop  ;  don't  halloo  at  the  top  of  your  voice, 
but  with  a  firmness  say  whoa.  You  may  think  your 
colt  would  stumble  and  fall,  but  strange  as  it  may  ap- 
pear to  you,  it  is  almost  impossible  when  in  that  posi- 
tion for  him  to  fall,  or  even  stumble  while  in  motion. 
The  colt  being  unused  to  work,  it  will  be  necessary 
to  give  him  a  short  drive  the  first  time,«asyou  do  not 
want  him  to  get  leg-weary,  and  become  sullen  ;  after 
which  you  can  give  him  short  and  lively  drives  un- 
til he  becomes  way- wised,  and  obeys  the  rein  and  word 
quickly.  When  he  has  by  this  means  become  accus- 
tomed to  being  handled  without  scringing,  or  show- 
ing signs  of  fear,  you  may  then  hitch  him  up 
single. 


43 

BEitcIiiug-  tlie  Colt  in  Single  Harness. 

Put  on  your  harness  carefnlly,  whicli  slioiild  be 
strong  in  every  respect,  and  well  fitted  to  your  colt ; 
lead  him  around  for  a  short  time,  until  he  becomes 
familiar  with  the  harness,  then  check  him  quite  loosely 
at  first  Take  your  webbing,  or  the  strap,  that  j'ou 
have  used  to  handle  his  feet,  attach  one  end  to  the 
ankle  of  the  right  forward  foot,  carrying  it  back 
through  between  the  bellyband  of  your  harness  and 
the  colt.  Now  take  your  reins  from  the  pad,  and  you 
have  three  reins,  two  to  his  head  and  one  to  his  foot 
Now  drive  him  about  a  short  time  ;  when  you  want 
him  to  stop,  use  the  word  vjlioa^  and  take  his  foot 
Now  place  the  web  or  strap  between  his  hind  legs, 
touching  him  gently  on  each  leg;  if  he  should  attempt 
to  jump  or  kick,  say  whoa,  pull  on  the  foot  strap,  then 
gently  approach  him,  pat  and  caress,  to  let  him  know 
that  you  are  with  him,  and  that  he  has  done  right  in 
stopping.  Continue  this  until  he  will  start  and  stop 
at  the  word  ;  come  to  the  right  or  left,  as  the  reins 
indicate.  He  is  now  prepared  for  the  wagon.  Do 
not  be  tempted,  under  any  circumstances,  to  use  an 
old  rotten  harness,  or  to  hitch  your  colt  to  an  old  rot- 
ten, rattling  wagon,  liable  to  give  way  on  the  first 
move  of  the  colt  Many  valuable  colts  have  been  so 
frightened  through  such  carelessness,  as  to  become 
almost  useless. 

Make  everything  safe  and  sure,  as  safety  and  cer- 
tainty should  be  your  motto. 

Before  you  hitch  your  colt  into  the  shafts,  lead  him 


44 

around  the  wagon  or  sleigh,  and  let  him  examine 
every  part  of  it.  Then  back  him  into  the  shafts ; 
stand  on  the  left  side  of  your  colt ;  have  the  strap 
or  webbing  attached  to  the  right  fore  foot,  and  over 
the  back,  holding  it  constantly  in  your  hand.  Now 
gently  lift  the  shafts  and  make  him  fast.  If-  he  should 
attempt  to  move,  the  word  whoa,  and  the  use  of  the 
foot  strap,  would  quiet  him.  Now  step  to  the  right 
side,  take  the  foot  strap,  pass  one  end  over  the  belly- 
band  of  the  harness,  and  carry  it  back  on  the  right 
side  of  the  wagon,  over  the  hold-back  strap,  using 
that  as  a  third  rein  in  your  hand.  You  see  now  that 
you  are  all  safe.  If  he  attempts  to  run,  pull  upon 
this  strap,  which  instantly  throws  him  on  three  legs, 
therefore  he  is  obliged  to  stop  ;  if  he  attem23ts  to  run 
back,  the  same  remedy  stops  him  ;  if  he  attempts  to 
kick,  call  his  attention  to  his  forwaad  foot  instantly. 

Now  all  that  is  necessary  is  to  be  careful,  and  use 
a  little  common  sense  in  teaching  your  colt  what  you 
v/ant  him  to  do.  In  a  very  short  time  you  have 
a  colt  that  you  can  recommend  as  properly  broken, 
safe  and  kind  for  any  one  to  drive,  which  is  almost 
the  first  question  asked  by  the  purchaser. 

I  have  now  taken  you  through  the  whole  list  of 
training  your  colt,  and  hope  you  will  never  lose  sight 
of  all  the  important  principles  of  my  system — Pa- 
tience, Perseverance,  and  Kindness,  with  a  good  share 
of  Firmness,  and  also  remember  that  colts  should  be 
trained  not  hroken.  Train  a  colt  in  the  way  he  should 
go,  and  ho  will  never  need  breaking.     Do  not  do  as 


45 

many  people  do — let  their  colts  run  until  they  are 
four  or  five  years  old,  and  then  undertake  to  break 
them  the  old-fashioned  way.  This  is  impracticable, 
for  you  as  often  break  their  constitutions,  their  cour- 
age, their  spirits,  and  sometimes  their  necks^  and  very 
often  the  breakers  themselves  get  hurt.  The  colt 
should  be  taught  step  by  step,  with  patience  and  per- 
severance, what  you  wish  him  to  do ;  not  driven  to 
do  what  he  does  not  know,  what  he  cannot  under- 
stand, while  smarting  under  the  lash. 


I  will  now  commence  with  the  old  bad  horse's  har- 
ness trick.  I  have  very  often  remarked  that  ninety 
nine  out  of  every  hundred  vicious  horses  in  harness, 
are  horses  with  ungovernable  mouths.  If  we  gov- 
ern the  mouth,  we  will,  in  almost  every  instance,  have 
a  controllable  horse.  I  will  asl^  did  the  reader  ever 
see  a  balky,  kicking,  bolting,  plunging,  runaway 
horse,  with  a  fine,  easy,  governable  mouth  ?  I  never 
have,  therefore  I  always  give  the  vicious  horse  a 
thorough  training  with  the  bitting  cord  belere  hitch- 
ing up.  In  a  short  time  he  will  learn  to  yield  the 
mouth  readily  to  the  pressure  of  the  bit,  aTter  he  has 
been  thoroughly  trained  with  the  cord.  I  wish  to 
convince  him  beyond  a  question  that  I  have  the 
power  to  handle  him  just  as  I  wish,  and  will  just  say 
that  I  consider  it  necessary  to  handle  all  horses  in  a 
manner  to  convince  them  that  they  can  be  controlled. 
Let  your  lessons  be  thorough,  but  not  very  long ;  be 
gentle  and  patient  with  the  colt,  but  make  the  old 


46 

stubborn  and  vicious  horse  feel  the  extent  of  your 
power  until  he  submits  ;  then  repeat  until  he  yields 
unconditional  submission ;  then  be  gentle  and  kind, 
yet  firm  in  your  treatment  afterwards. 

After  testing  all  other  plans  that  have  been  brought 
before  the  public,  I  must  say  that  my  present  system 
for  handling  a  vicious  horse  —  to  subdue  him  —  or 
for  performing  surgical  operations,  is  ftir  ahead 
of  anything  ever  made  public ;  and  if  I  had  retired 
from  the  business  of  teaching  Horsemanship,  I  would 
not  be  deprived  of  the  use  of  this  one  point  for  ten 
times  its  cost.  The  first  step  in  the  management  of 
a  bad  horse,  is  to  show  him  that  his  willfulness  must 
yield  to  superior  power.  This  you  can  do  best  with 
the  use  of  my  surcingle,  which  I  will  now  explain, 
so  that  you  need  not  make  a  mistake. 

I^earning:  a,  Colt  to  Back. 

Learning  the  colt  to  back  is  the  next  operation,  and 
is  a  matter  of  great  importance,  as  the  future  value 
of  your  colt  depends  upon  his  being  thoroughly  bro- 
ken. It  should  be  commenced  while  bitting  the  colt ; 
and  before  you  ever  attempt  to  harness,  you  should 
teach  him  to  back  promptly  at  the  word,  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner :  Have  on  bitting  bridle,  stand  in 
front  and  a  little  to  the  left  of  your  colt,  your  left 
hand  on  the  bridle,  in  yoar  right  a  light  spring  top 
whip  ;  now  give  a  quick  pull  on  the  bridle,  at  the 
same  moment  a  light  blow  on  the  nose  with  your 
whip,  and  say,  "back,  sir ;"  ease  up  on  the  bridle, 


47 

your  whip  at  your  right  side,  patting  and  caressing 
on  the  neck  with  your  right  hand  ;  in  a  few  moments 
try  it  again.  'By  repeating  this  a  few  times,  he  will 
learn  what  you  mean  by  saying  "back,  sir."  He  is 
now  ready  to  harness. 


SiLl>diiiug  tlie  Colt. 

The  plan  for  subjugating  wild  colts  and  vicious 
horses,  has  been  experimented  upon  more  than  all 
other  points  in  horsemanship.  At  present  there  are 
five  different  modes  of  operating,  as  follows  :  Mr.  J. 
S.  Rarey's  plan  of  strapping  the  foot ;  Messrs.  Rock- 
well &  Hurlbut's  whirling  until  he  staggers,  or  falls 
to  the  ground ;  Messrs.  D.  Magner  &  Dudley  claim 
to  have  an  improvement  upon  the  last  named  by 
tying  a  loop  in  the  end  of  his  tail,  taking  the  tie  strap 
of  the  halter,  pass  it  through  the  loop,  bringing  his 
head  to  his  side,  and  tied  fast  to  the  tail ;  he  then, 
with  a  bow-top  whip,  steps  behind  the  horse,  cracks 
him  sharp  in  the  quarters,  and  keeps  him  whirling 
urftil  he  falls.  Another  plan,  as  introduced  by  Prof 
Hamilton,  is  to  procure  a  piece  of  rein  webbing  ten 
feet  in  length,  attach  one  end  to  the  ankle  of  the  left 
forward  foot,  made  fast  with  a  timber  hitch,  which  is 
made  thus :  take  the  end  of  the  webbing,  carry  it  to 
the  inside  of  the  pastern,  bring  it  around  the  ankle 
to  the  outside,  thence  under  the  main  webbing  over 
to  the  outside  and  back  of  the  pastern,  then  pass  the 
end  under  and  up  through  between  the  ankle  and 
webbing,  passing  the  end  through  twice,  and  slipped 


48 

up  close,  (a  knot  tied  after  that  manner  cannot  slip 
or  injure  the  pastern,  and  will  also  nritie  witliont 
trouble.)  After  tHe  whole  web  is  made  fast  to  the 
pastern  of  the  left  forward  foot,  the  other  end  is  car- 
ried through  under  the  chest,  and  over  the  horse's 
back  to  the  near  side  ;  a  half-inch  cord  is  now  tied 
around  the  horse's  neck,  about  midwaj  between  the 
head  and  shoulder ;  a  running  loop  is  then  passed 
through  between  the  neck  and  cord,  carried  forward 
and  looped  into  the  mouth.  He  now  lifts  the  left 
forward  foot,  takes  the  webbing  that  is  brought  over 
the  back  to  the  near  side,  draws  it  close,  winds  the 
webbing  around  his  right  hand,  and  presses  the 
knuckles  hard  on  the  left  side  of  the  back  ;  with  the 
left  hand  reaches  to  the  off  side  of  the  horse's  neck, 
grasps  the  cord  that  is  looped  into  the  mouth,  and 
carries  his  head  against  his  right  shoulder.  After 
moving  him  upon  three  legs  for  a  little  time,  he  then 
throws  him  upon  the  left  side.  All  of  the  above' 
named  plans  may  answer  very  well,  but  I  never  adopt 
any  of  them,  only  with  the  green  colt.  In  handling 
a  wild  colt,  if  he  (at  times)  becomes  stubborn  and 
willful,  I  grasp  the  halter  with  the  left  hand,  with  the 
right  grasp  the  tail,  and  give  him  a  few  sharp  whirls 
to  the  left  until  he  is  somewhat  dizzy,  I  then  slip  to 
the  opposite  side,  with  the  right  hand  grasp  the  nose- 
piece  of  the  halter^  with  the  left  the  tail,  give  him  a 
few  sharp  turns  to  the  right ;  if  he  is  sullen  and  re- 
fuses to  move,  with  your  left  boot  give  him  a  few 
kicks  across  the  quarter,  that  will  give  him  a  start, 


49 

after  which  you  can  whirl  him  either  way  as  fast  as 
you  like.  This  will  have  a  good  effect  upon  a  wild 
colt  that  has  acquired  no  vicious  habits  ;  but  for  the 
old  horse  I  use  my  surcingle.  Study  and  fully  under- 
stand its  use  and  you  will  not  fail  to  bring  them  to 
an  unconditional  surrender.  Eead  carefully  the  next 
point  in  order,  and  its  use  will  be  fully  explained. 


HoTF  to   Siibcliie  a  Vicious  Horse. 

Much  has  been  said  of  Mr.  J.  S.  Earey's  system  of 
subjugating  vicious  horses.  It  is  known  almost  the 
world  over.  He  has  taught  his  system  in  the  United 
States,  Upper  and  Lower  Canada,  and  has  also  had 
the  pleasure  of  operating  before  the  royal  Court  in 
England ;  and  as  far  as  our  knowledge  extends,  his 
system  is  met  with  approval  of  all  those  that  have 
attended  his  lectures.  But  after  giving  him  all  the 
praise  that  is  due,  you  must  consider  Mr.  Rarey's 
system  for  subjugating  vicious  horses  is  like  all  other 
new  inventions  that  are  brought  before  the  public  — 
in  a  short  time  there  are  very  great  improvements. 

The  plan  I  adopt  by  which  to  subdue  vicious 
horses,  I  consider  far  superior  when  compared  with 
Mr.  Rarey's.  We  both  accomplish  the  same  object, 
but  by  a  different  way  of  operating.  And  why  do 
I  employ  such  means  by  which  to  subdue  vicious 
horses?  It  is  to  put  him  in  a  position  that  he  is  un- 
conscious of  the  amount  of  his  strength,  satisfy  and 
convince  him  that  I  can  control  him  to  my  liking, 
and  when  once  conquered  he  submits  himself  to  my 


50 

will,  after  whicli  lie  will  do  almost  anything  I  may 
require  of  him. 

Now,  dear  reader,  before  you  attempt  to  do  any- 
thing, it  is  necessary  to  know  just  what  you  are  go- 
ing to  do,  and  how  you  are  going  to  do  it,  and  if  you 
are  experienced  in  the  art  of  taming  wild  horses,  you 
ought  to  be  able  to  tell  within  a  few  minutes  the 
length  of  time  it  would  take  you  to  bring  a  wild 
horse  perfectly  under  joiir  control. 

I  have  given  you  the  first  step.  He  is  brought 
up,  and  will  follow  you  by  use  of  the  whip.  Now, 
the  next  point  is  to  subdue  and  conquer  him.  Let 
your  cord  remain  upon  your  horse  the  same  as  for 
halter  breaking.  By  the  use  of  the  cord  you  will 
be  able  to  keep  him  quiet  while  placing  the  surcin- 
gle around  his  body,  and  other  steps  necessary  for 
his  subjugation.  Mr.  Earey  bedded  the  floor  with 
straw,  but  I  think  it  better  to  have  a  clean  floor, 
and  pad  well  the  knees.  If  your  floor  is  clean  and 
dry,  there  is  no  danger  of  your  horse  slipping  ;  if 
you  use  straw  upon  the  floor,  it  is  apt  to  give  under 
his  feet;  he  would  slip,  and  perhaps  get  injured. 
Now  for  the  plan,  and  use  of  the  surcingle. 

l>imensioiis  and  Use  of  ^urcin^^fle. 

This  is  six  feet  six  inches  in  length,  two  and  a  half 
inches  in  width,  with  twelve  one  and  a  half  inch  rings 
attached  to  it ;  the  first  ring  is  five  inches  from  the 
buckle  on  the  back  edge ;  the  second,  one  inch  from 
the  first  on  the  front  edge ;  next,  six  inches  from  the 
second.     (This  third  ring  is  used  for  making  the  left 


51 

forward  foot  fast.)  The  fourth  ring,  six  inches  from 
the  third,  placed  to  the  back  edge.  The  fifth  and 
sixth  rings  are  used  as  pulley  rings  to  bring  up  the 
right  forward  foot  —  the  fifth  ring  five  inches  from 
the  fourth,  the  sixth,  four  inches  from  the  fifth  ;  the 
seventh,  two  inches  from  the  sixth,  on  the  front  edge ; 
eighth,  eight  inches  from  seventh  on  back  edge  ; 
ninth,  nine  inches  from  eighth ;  tenth,  three  inches 
from  ninth  on  back  edge ;  eleventh,  five  inches  from 
tenth;  twelfth,  two  inches  from  eleventh,  on  back 
edge.  The  second  and  seventh  rings  are  attached  to 
the  front  edge  of  the  surcingle,  used  for  bringing  the 
horse's  head  on  his  side  when  performing  surgical 
operations.  The  first,  fourth,  eighth,  tenth  and 
twelfth,  are  attached  to  the  back  edge  by  the  use  of 
short  straps  fastened  .with  copper  rivets ;  these  are 
used  for  fastening  both  hind  feet  to  the  surcingle  when 
performing  operations,  such  as  castrating,  fireing,  etc. 
You  are  now  acquainted  with  the  plan ;  now  for 
its  practical  use.  Take  your  surcingle,  approach 
your  horse  on  the  left  side,  put  it  around  his  body  ; 
buckle  so  the  third  ring  will  be  just  in  the  position 
by  which  to  fasten  the  left  forward  foot.  Place  in 
the  third  ring  a  strap  eighteen  inches  in  length,  one 
inch  and  a  quarter  wide,  with  buckle  and  two  loops, 
the  same  as  a  common  hame  strap  ;  this  put  through 
the  third  ring,  the  end  slipped  into  the  loop  on  the 
unfinished  side,  and  drawn  through.  The  strap  now 
hangs  b}^  the  third  ring,  fastened  by  a  loop  just  back 
of   the  left  forward  arm.     On  the  right  side  of  the 


62 

horse,  just  back  of  the  arm,  are  the  fifth  and  sixth 
rings.  You  have  prepared  another  strap  fifteen  feet 
in  length,  and  one  inch  wide.  One  end  of  this  strap 
is  buckled  on  the  fifth  ring,  also  a  small  strap  eight 
inches  in  length,  with  one  ring  attached.  This  is 
buckled  around  the  ankle  of  right  forward  leg,  ring 
on  outside.  The  other  end  of  fifteen  feet  strap 
passes  through  the  ring  at  the  pastern,  and  brought 
up  through  the  sixth  over  the  horse's  back.  All  is 
now  in  readiness  for  handling  your  horse. 

You  are  standing  on  the  left  side  of  your  horse. 
Take  up  the  l^ft  fore  foot,  and  bend  his  knee  till  his 
hoof  is  bottom  upward,  and  nearly  touching  his 
body  ;  the  strap  hanging  to  the  third  ring  is  brought 
around  the  ankle  and  buckled.  The  left  foot  is  now 
secured,  and  leaves  your  horse  standing  on  three 
feet,  and  in  your  power.  You  are  standing  on  the 
the  left  side  of  your  horse.  Grasp  the  bridle-rein  on 
the  left  side  of  the  horse's  neck,  six  inches  from  the 
bits.  Eeach  over  the  horse's  back  with  your  right, 
holding  the  strap  that  comes  from  the  opposite  foot ; 
bear  against  his  shoulder  till  you  cause  him  to  move. 
As  soon  as  he  lifts  his  foot,  your  pulling  with 
your  right  will  raise  it  in  the  same  position  as  his 
left,  and  he  will  have  to  come  on  his  knees.  Keep 
the  strap  tight  in  your  right  hand,  so  that  he  cannot 
straighten  his  leg  if  he  rises  up.  Hold  him  in  this 
position  aad  turn  his  head  towards  you ;  bear  against 
his  side  with  your  shoulder,  not  hard,  but  with  a 
steady,  equal  pressure,  and  in  about  ten  minutes  he 


53 

will  lie  down.  As  soon  as  lie  lies  down  lie  will  be 
completely  conquered,  and  you  can  handle  him  as 
you  please.  Take  off  the  straps,  and  straighten  out 
his  legs ;  rub  him  gently  about  the  face  and  neck 
with  your  hand,  the  way  the  hair  lies  ;  handle  all 
his  legs,  and  after  he  has  lain  ten  or  twenty  minutes, 
let  him  get  up.  After  resting  him  a  short  time,  lie 
him  down  again.  Repeat  the  operation  three  or  foui* 
times,  which  will  be  sufl&cient  in  most  cases,  for  he 
is  perfectly  conquered,  and  has  submitted  himself  to 
your  will,  and  can  be  educated  to  do  almost  anything 
you  may  require  of  him. 

By  the  use  of  the  surcingle,  you  can  place  your 
horse  in  any  position  you  like,  without  the  assistance 
of  any  one.  He  can  be  castrated  in  twenty  minutes 
by  one  alone  —  can  be  educated  to  know  that  a  Buffa- 
lo robe,  umbrella,  piece  of  paper,  or  any  object, 
however  frightful,  is  harmless,  and  after  once  educa- 
ted in  that  manner,  you  have  no  further  trouble. 


Castrating-. 

The  plan  usually  adopted  for  throwing  and  cas- 
trating the  colt,  has  been  attended  with  more  or  less 
danger,  time  and  trouble.  Tlie  operator  has  pre- 
pared a  rope  about  one  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter, 
and  some  twenty  feet  in  length ;  in  the  centre  is  made 
a  loop,  which  is  slipped  over  his  head  and  neck  down 
to  the  shoulders,  the  ends  carried  back  and  around 
the  ankles  of  the  hind  feet.  One  man  is  placed  on 
each  side  of  the  colt,  holding  the  ends  of  said  rope  ; 


54 

the  third  man  at  his  head.  The  two  men  holding 
the  ends  of  the  rope,  pnll,  while  the  man  at  his  head 
endeavors  to  back  him.  After  some  severe  strug- 
gling, he  is  thrown  back  npon  his  hannches.  I  must 
say  the  plan  is  not  only  cruel,  but  attended  with  a 
great  amount  of  danger.  The  colt  does  not  recover 
from  his  injuries  for  sometime.  Tv/o  valuable  colts, 
to  our  certain  knowledge,  were  rendered  worthless 
by  the  use  of  the  above  mentioned  step  in  throw- 
ing them.  One  had  his  thigh  broken  —  the  other  so 
injured  across  the  loin  that  he  became  useless.  By 
the  use  of  my  surcingle,  as  described  on  previous 
page,  any  boy  fifteen  years  *of  age,  can  lay  down  a 
horse  easily,  and  place  him  in  any  position  for  per- 
forming surgical  operations  of  any  kind,  without  the 
assistance  of  any  one.  In  sections  where  I  am  trav- 
elling, in  the  spring  season,  colts  are  sent  to  me  daily 
to  be  castrated,  and  not  in  a  single  case  have  I  occu- 
pied more  than  ten  minutes  in  performing  the  opera- 
tion, without  any  assistance.  By  the  use  of  my  sur- 
cingle it  can  be  accomplished  in  ten  minutes  (alone,) 
easier  than  to  adopt  the  old-fashioned  way,  with  half 
a  dozen  assistants. 


HoTV  to  I>rive  a  RimaTray  Ilorse. 

This  is  easily  effected  by  buckling  a  strap  eight 
inches  in  length,  one  inch  wide,  around  the  ankle  of 
the  left  forward  foot,  with  inch  ring  attached  ;  another 
strap,  fifteen  feet  in  length,  one  inch  wide,  with  one 
end  buckled  to  the  hame  ring,  the  other  end  slipped 


56 

through  the  ring  attached  to  the  pastern,  and  from 
thence  under  the  hip-strap  into  the  wagon.  By  adopt- 
ing this  plan  you  can  remoin  seated  and  control  him 
as  you  please.  When  you  move  your  horse,  pull  on 
your  strap,  and  by  so  doing  you  bend  the  leg  inward, 
so  as  to  bring  the  bottom  of  the  hoof  nearly  up  to 
his  body.  Your  horse  now^  stands  on  three  legs,  and 
you  can  manage  him  as  you  please,  for  he  can  neither 
rear,  run,  nor  do  anything  of  a  serious  nature.  This 
simple  operation  will  conquer  a  vicious  horse  quicker 
than  any  other  plan  that  can  be  adopted  ;  it  does  not 
hurt  him,  while  it  enables  him  to  perceive  that  you 
can  render  him  powerless.  His  foot  claims  all  his 
attention,  and  you  can  drive  him  at  your  pleasure. 
He  may  at  first  get  very  mad,  and  strike  with  his 
knees,  but  will  soon  give  Over,  after  which  you  may 
go  to  him,  let  his  foot  down,  and  caress  him.  You 
must  bear  in  mind  that  he  will  tire  very  quickly  on 
three  legs  ;  hence  you  should  let  him  have  his  foot 
as  soon  as  he  seems  to  be  fatigued.  You  can  let  him 
have  his  foot  without  getting  out  of  the  wagon  ;  let 
your  strap  be  a  little  slack,  the  ring  on  the  pastern 
slipping  backwards  and  forwards  as  he  travels,  so 
that  no  obstruction  is  in  the  w^ay.  Drive  him  with 
his  foot  down  as  long  as  he  is  quiet,  but  if  he  attempts 
to  do  anything  wrong,  pull  on  the  strap  and  take  his 
foot  from  him  again.  If  he  manifests  a  desire  to  run, 
let  him  have  the  lines,  but  keep  the  strap  firm  that 
is  attached  to  his  foot ;  he  will  soon  tire,  and  stop  at 
the  word.     By  driving  him  in  that  way  a  short  time, 


56 

you  will  have  effectually  mastered  his  disposition  to 
run,  or  try  to  get  away.  I  have  seen  horses,  totally 
unmanageable  from  their  vicious  propensities,  so 
gentled  by  this  process  that  in  a  few  hours  they  might 
be  driven  anywhere  with  perfect  safety  ;  and  one 
great  advantage  of  the  plan  is,  that  the  results  are 
permanent 


B[o\r  to  I>rive  a,  Kicking:  Horse. 

It  must  be  remembered  that  this  is  a  vice  foremost 
in  point  of  danger.  A  vicious  kicking  horse  is  more 
dangerous  than  one  possessed  of  any  other  vice.  If 
your  horse  is  a  little  nervous,  lie  him  down  with  your 
surcingle,  and  gently  harness  him  as  though  he  were 
ever  so  kind.  Then  put  on  your  ten-cent  cord  bridle. 
This  is  made  by  taking  a  half-inch  cord  twenty  feet 
in  length  ;  get  the  centre,  and  loop  two  gang-runners 
one  foot  apart ;  now  place  it  on  the  horse's  head  just 
back  of  his  ears,  with  loop  on  each  side  ;  the  ends  are 
brought  down,  crossed  through  the  mouth,  and  back 
through  the  loops  above.  Now  your  bridle  is  ar- 
ranged on  his  head.  Take  the  ends  (after  brought 
through  the  gang-runners)  back  through  the  turrets 
of  your  pad  ;  place  your  horse  between  your  shafts  ; 
buckle  the  belly-band  close,  so  your  shafts  cannot 
rise ;  then  place  a  pnlly  on  the  top  of  the  shafts,  each 
side  of  the  horse's  quarters ;  make  them  fast.  Then 
bring  the  cords  from  the  turrets  that  are  attached  to 
the  pad  under  the  wheels  of  the  pulley,  over  the 
horse's  quarters,  and  make  them  fast     Your  horse  is 


57 

in  just  tlie  right  position.  Have  no  fear,  for  you  can 
drive  any  kicking  horse  with  it  anywhere  you  please. 
If  he  attempts  to  raise  his  quarters,  he  throws  his  head 
violently  into  the  air,  and  can  do  no  harm  ;  it  has  a 
peculiar  advantage  over  him,  for  it  does  not  hinder 
the  travelling,  as  there  is  nothing  attached  to  his  feet ; 
and  all  you  have  to  attend  to,  is  your  lines.  Drive 
him  in  that  manner  for  three  or  four  days,  after 
which  remove  it,  and  your  horse  is  effectually  broken 
of  the  vice. 


Another  Plan  Tor  I>riving;  a.  Kickei*  in  Harness. 

Place  him  between  your  shafts  as  before  ;  place 
your  cord  bridle  upon  his  head,  and  an^ange  it  same 
as  first  lesson  for  driving  kickers  in  harness.  Now 
get  a  two  inch  ring,  place  it  on  the  top  of  the  back 
strap,  where  the  hip  straps  cross;  get  a  piece  of  har- 
ness leather  four  inches  lon^  and  one  inch  wide. 
Stand  the  ring  cm  the  edge,  take  the  four  inch  strap, 
pass  it  through  the  ring,  and  stitch  fast  on  each  side. 
The  ring  is  now  made  fast  to  the  back  strap  on  top 
of  the  horse's  hips.  Take  the  ends  of  y  our  cord  bri- 
dle, (after  passing  them  through  the  gag-runners,) 
bring  them  back  to  the  horse's  quarters,  and  pass  both 
ends  through  the  ring  that  is  attached  to  the  back 
strap  ;  the  cord  that  is  passed  through  the  gag-runner, 
on  the  left  side  of  the  horse's  head,  that  being  passed 
through  the  ring,  is  brought  down  across  the  left  hip, 
and  made  fast  to  the  sLaft;  the  one  on  the  right  side 
of  the  head  is  passed  through  the  ring,  carried  down 


58 

over  the  right  hip  of  the  horse,  and  made  fast  to  the 
off  side  shaft — drawn  close  enough  to  keep  his  head 
well  up.  I  think  the  explanation  given,  sufficieDtto 
give  the  reader  a  full  understanding  of  the  horse's 
position.  Get  into  your  wagon ;  start  jour  horse  ; 
all  you  have  to  attend  to,  is  your  reins.  You  see  at 
once  if  the  horse  attempts  to  raise  his  quarters,  he 
sends  his  head  violently  into  the  air.  The  cord  bridle 
in  his  mouth  is  very  severe,  and  has  a  powerful  con- 
trolling influence.  In  hitching  him  up  the  first  time, 
I  would  recommend  hitching  him  to  a  two-wheeled 
vehicle,  with  shafts  strong,  made  of  poles  some  three 
inches  in  diameter.  Should  you  have  a  horse  of  this 
kind,  in  kicking  should  he  curb  his  mouth  against 
.his  chest,  and  kicking  almost  straight  back,  without 
raising  his  head  but  little,  place  an  iron  standing  mar- 
tingale two  and  a  half  feet  in  length  from  the  hames 
to  the  bits ;  that  will  lieep  his  head  well  up,  and  he 
can  do  no  harm.  Drive  the  kicker  in  that  position 
for  eight  or  ten  days ;  drive  him  in  such  places  where 
he  would  be  most  likely  to  get  frightened  and  attempt 
to  kick.  I  think  that  length  of  time  will  subdue 
and  conquer  the  most  of  kickers. 


HoTT  to    Handle  a  Kicking*  Horse  in    Double 
Harness. 

In  handling  a  kicking  horse  in  double  harness  you 
can  virtually  adopt  the  same  plan  as  recommended 
in  single  harness.  Hitch  him  to  pole  by  the  side  of 
a  well  broke  horse  ;   procure  a  heavy  wagon  shaft, 


69 

with  a  bow  at  the  butt,  the  same  as  for  carriage. 
Step  to  the  side  of  your  horse, '  pass  the  small  end 
through  the  lug  strap  (as  in  single  harness)  turning 
it  sidewise,  then  carry  the  point  of  the  crooked  end 
under  the  end  of  the  evener,  leaving  a  lap  of  some 
four  inches,  and  make  fast  with  two  half-inch  bolts, 
bend  projecting  outward,  after  which  procure  a  strap 
four  and  a  half  or  five  feet  long,  (owing  to  size  of 
horses,)  one  inch  and  a  half  wide,  with  billet  buckle 
and  loop  attached  to  each  end,  the  same  as  your  reins 
are  buckled  into  the  ring  of  the  bits.  One  end  of 
this  strap  is  buckled  around  the  false  shaft,  where  it 
passes  through  the  tug  strap  of  the  harness  of  the 
kicking  horse  ;  the  other  end  is  passed  through  under 
the  chest  of  each  horse,  just  back  of  the  forward  legs, 
and  buckled  into  the  outside  tug  buckle  of  the  oppo- 
site horse.  That  is  to  prevent  the  shaft  from  raising 
when  the  horse  attempts  to  kick.  Now  place  your 
cord  bridle  upon  the  horse's  head,  as  recommended 
in  single  harness ;  bring  the  ends  back,  and  pass  them 
through  the  ring  made  fast  on-  the  top  of  the  hips  ; 
on  one  side  bring  one  of  the  cords  down  across  the 
hip,  and  make  it  fast  to  the  pole  ;  the  other  end  over 
the  hip,  and  make  fast  to  the  false  shaft.  He  is  now 
in  almost  the  same  position  as  when  between  the  sin- 
gle shafts.  The  strap  under  the  chest  prevents  the 
shaft  from  rising,  should  he  attempt  to  kick,  also  the 
horses  from  spreading.  I  have  another  plan  of  work- 
ing a  kicking  horse  in  double  harness,  and  why  I  do 
not  recommend  it  in  all  cases  is  because  the  opera- 


60 

tor  is  too  apt  to  get  careless,  and  neglect  to  watch 
closely  the  moves  of  the  horse.  The  operator  can 
always  tell  by  watching  him  closely,  when  he  is  pre- 
meditating a  vicious  move ;  a  little  scringing,  drop- 
ping of  the  ear,  frisking  of  the  tail,  hogging  down  on 
the  bit  with  a  sudden  start,  all  indicate  something 
wrong.  Consequently,  you  see  it  is  highly  necessary 
to  watch  his  moves  closely. 

The  plan  I  was  about  to  speak  of  is  as  follows,  and 
my  experience  in  handling  horses  warrants  me  in 
recommending  it  a  good  one :  Hitch  your  kicker  by 
the  side  of  a  well  broke  horse ;  procure  a  strong, 
half  inch  cord,  fifteen  or  eighteen  feet  in  length, 
pass  it  around  the  horse's  neck,  get  the  size,  tie  your 
bow-line  knot,  slip  it  over  the  head,  and  well  down 
toward  the  shoulder ;  then  take  hold  of  the  cord  be- 
low, pass  it  through  the  loop,  between  the  neck  and 
cord,  and  place  the  running  loop  into  his  mouth,  same 
as  for  bitting ;  then  attach  the  long  foot  strap  to  the 
ankle  of  the  inside  forward  foot ;  carry  the  other  end 
back  between  the  girth  and  body,  into  the  wagon ; 
also  your  cord.  Get  some  friend  to  ride  with  you 
for  the  first  time,  he  driving  the  team,  you  handling 
the  cord  and  foot  strap.  If  he  attempts  to  kick,  take 
his  foot  from  him,  give  him  a  sudden  pull  with  the 
cord.  I  have  broken  some  of  the  worst  kind  in  a 
very  few  days  by  adopting  this  plan.  You  have  a 
powerful  controlling  influence  over  them,  as  they  can 
neither  run  nor  kick.     Try  it 


61 


Hoi^r  to  use  a.  Balky  Horse. 

If  ever  I  felt  that  the  horse  deserved  the  philan- 
thropic sympathy  of  man,  it  has  been  when  I  have 
seen  a  man,  ignorant  and  brntal  in  his  own  nature, 
trying  to  move  a  balky  horse.  I  will  have^  been 
amply  repaid,  and  will  have  certainly  given  every 
one  who  buys  this  book  a  rich  equivalent  for  his 
money,  if  by  its  perusal  I  induce  a  more  civilized 
mode  of  treatment  You  are  to  remember  that  balk- 
ing is  an  acquired  habit,  and  not  from  any  disinclina- 
tion on  his  part  to  pull.  I  know  that  some  men  will 
take  the  very  best  pulling  horse,  and  in  a  short  time 
make  him  balk,  simply  from  mismanagement.  It  is 
not  the  dull,  indolent  horse  which  balks,  but  the  high- 
spirited  and  fiery  horse  of  blood  and  mettle ;  this  is 
so,  because  those  who  undertake  to  drive  them  do  not 
understand  them.  Notice  which  horse  of  a  team  it 
is  that  balks,  and  you  will  mostly  find  it  to  be  the 
one  of  the  highest  mettle.  He  hears  the  command 
to  go,  and  being  more  ready  to  obey  than  the  other, 
he  springs  off ;  but,  not  being  able  to  start  the  wagon, 
he  is  thrown  back  on  his  haunches,  stopping  the  other 
as  well  as  himself  The  driver  whoops  and  snaps 
his  whip,  and  by  the  time  that  the  slower  horse  has 
started,  the  free  horse  has  made  another  effort,  failed, 
and  now  both  are  balked.  Both  horses  recognize 
that  something  is  wrong,  and  neither  knows  what. 
They  are  alike  afraid  to  move.  Then  the  driver  plies 
the  whip,  whoops  and  slaps  the  lines,  all  of  which 
only  tend  to  make  the  matter  worse.     This  has  been 


62 

seen  by  almost  every  person.  Tlie  liorse  was  willing 
to  go,  but  did  not  know  how  to  move  the  load ;  and 
we  ask  any  sensible  man  to  tell  us  if  the  horse  should 
be  beaten  for  not  doing  that  which  he  did  not  know 
how  to  do.  You  can  make  a  horse  do  almost  any- 
thing which  he  can  fully  understand  ;  and  I  do  con- 
■  tend  that  by  proper  education,  any  balking  horse  can 
be  started  in  a  few  minutes.  Some  have  adopted  the 
plan  of  buckling  a  strap  to  the  ankle  of  one  forward 
foot,  standing  in  front,  and  by  pulling  the  foot 
forward,  the  collar  presses  against  the  shoulder,  and 
he  will  move.  Others  have  adopted  the  plan  of 
throwing  a  handful  of  sand  in  his  eyes,  but  to  this 
plan,  though  it  succeeds,  I  am  bitterly  opposed.  I 
would  sooner  own  a  balky  than  a  blind  horse. 

If  you  get  hold  of  a  horse  that  has  been  long  in 
the  habit  of  balking,  just  set  apart  a  day  for  his  edu- 
cation. Gro  into  some  pasture  field,  hitch  your  horse 
to  a  light  load,  something  that  he  can  move  easily. 
If  he  refuses  to  pull,  get  a  half-inch  cord,  ten  feet  in 
length,  tie  it  around  his  neck  and  loop  it  forward  into 
his  mouth,  just  as  recommended  for  halter-breaking. 
Step  to  one  side,  give  him  a  sudden  pull,  and  he  will 
move  a  step  towards  you.  Step  to  the  opposite  side ; 
give  him  another  pull ;  by  repeating  it  ten  or  twelve 
times,  he  will  start  willingly.  Then  increase  your 
load,  and  if  he  refuses  to  pull,  use  the  cord  as  above. 
I  have  seen  the  worst  of  balky  horses  in  three  hours 
time  made  perfectly  kind — to  pull  in  any  spot  or 


63 

place.  The  plan  is  simple.  And  why  is  it  so  effec- 
tual ?  There  is  nothing  you  can  place  in  a  horse's 
mouth  by  which  you  can  control  him  with  such  ease. 
The  cord  is  placed  around  his  neck,  and  brought 
forward  into  his  mouth,  *and  by  a  sudden  pull  with 
the  other  end,  it  is  drawn  ?<uddenly  across  his  tongue, 
comes  in  contact  with  the  nerve  of  his  lower  jaw, 
which  he  cannot  long  endure,  and  he  willingly  moves 
off.  If  at  any  future  time  he  should  show  any  symp- 
toms of  balking,  a  lesson  with  the  cord  is  all  that  is 
necessary. 


HoTT  to  Break  a  Halter  I»u.ller, 

Always  use  a  leather  halter,  and  be  sure  to  have  it 
made  so  that  it  will  not  draw  tight  around  his  nose. 
If  he  pulls  on  it,  it  should  be  of  right  size  to  fit  his 
head  easily  and  nicely  —  so  that  the  nose  band  will 
not  be  too  tight,  or  too  low.  Never  put  a  rope  hal- 
ter on  an  unbroken  colt,  or  a  horse  that  is  in  the 
habit  of  pulling  at  the  halter,  under  any  circum- 
stances whatever.  They  have  caused  more  horses  to 
hurt  or  kill  themselves,  than  would  pay  for  twice  the 
cost  of  all  the  leather  halters  that  ever  were  needed 
for  the  purpose  of  haltering  colts.  It  is  almost  im- 
possible to  break  a  horse  of  the  vice  with  a  rope  hal- 
ter. He  will  pull,  rear  and  throw  himself,  and  thus 
endanger  his  life.  And  I  will  tell  you  why.  It  is 
just  as  natural  for  a  horse  to  try  to  get  his  head  out 
of  anything  that  hurts  it,  or  feels  unpleasant,  as  it 
would  be  for  you  to  try  to  get  your  hand  out  of  a 


64 

fire.  The  cords  of  the  rope  are  hard  and  cutting  ; 
this  makes  him  raise  his  head,  and  draw  on  it,  and 
as  soon  as  he  pulls,  the  slip-noose  (the  way  the  rope 
halters. are  always  made)  tightens  and  pinches  his 
nose,  and  then  he  will  struggle  for  life.  Who  would 
run  the  risk  of  a  fine  horse  breaking  his  neck  rather 
than  pay  the  price  of  a  leather  halter  ?  If  you  have 
a  horse  that,  from  mismanagement,  has  acquired  the 
habit  of  pulling  at  the  halter,  place  your  leather  hal- 
ter on  his  head  ;  the  strap  you  hitch  with,  have  it 
twenty  feet  in  length.  You  may  hitch  him  in  a  stall 
or  to  a  post  outside,  or  any  place  where  he  is  in  the 
habit  of  pulling.  If  in  a  stall,  run  the  end  of  your 
rein  through  the  hole  in  the  manger,  then  back 
through  the  ring  of  the  halter,  and,  as  j^ou  pull  it 
through  the  ring,  bring  his  head  within  two  feet  of 
the  manger,  then  between  his  forward  legs,  and  make 
fast  to  the  ankle  of  his  left  fore  foot.  I  think  you 
can  see  clearly  there  is  no  possible  chance  for  him  to 
break  his  halter,  or  get  loose.  If  he  makes  an  at- 
tempt to  pull  back,  he  brings  his  left  hind  foot  for- 
ward under  the  body,  is  fearful  he  will  fall,  and  steps 
forward  in  a  moment.  After  he  has  made  the  at- 
tempt to  break  his  halter,  three  or  four  times,  you 
may  take  any  object,  however  frightful,  and  hold  it 
in  a  position  to  frighten  him,  and  he  will  not  make 
an  effort  to  pull  back.  I  have  seen  the  worst  of 
the  kind  effectually  broken  of  the  vice  in  thirty 
minutes. 


65 

AnotUer    and  Better  Plan  for  Breaking-  a 
Halter-Pnller. 

Lead  your  horse  to  a  place  most  convenient  for 
hitching  him.  It  don't  matter  whether  to  a  post,  in 
the  stall,  or  elsewhere.  Place  a  common  strap  hal- 
ter upon  his  head,  then  procure  a  piece  of  rein  web- 
bing tifteen  feet  in  length,  or  a  strap  one  and  a  fourth 
inch  wide,  of  same  length  ;  get  the  center  of  said 
webbing  or  strap.  Now  buckle  a  common  web  sur- 
cingle around  his  body,  just  back  of  the  shoulder, 
then  lay  your  webbing  across  his  hips  ;  carry  one  end 
forward  between  the  surcingle  and  body,  on  the  left 
side,  the  oposite  end  between  the  surcingle  and  body 
on  the  off  side  of  the  colt ;  the  center  rests  across  his 
hips,  the  ends  carried  forward.  Take  the  center  of 
the  webbing  in  your  right  hand,  give  it  one  turn 
over ;  that  leaves  it  crossed  upon  his  hips  ;  carry  the 
center  and'  pass  his  tail  through  the  loop  you  made 
by  turning  the  center  of  the  webbing  over,  the  sanie 
as  cruppering  with  harness.  Step  forward  ;  reach 
your  left  hand  through  under  the  horse's  neck  ;  take 
hold  of  the  end  of  the  webbing  on  the  off  side  ;  with 
your  right  hand  take  the  end  on  the  left  side  ;  bring 
the  two  ends  together  under  the  neck,  and  tie  them 
around  the  chest.  Then  carry  the  end  of  your  tie- 
strap  through  the  ring  in  manger,  or  some  point 
where  he  has  been  in  the  habit  of  pulling  ;  bring 
back  and  make/ast  to  the  webbing  that  passes  around 
the  chest.  Your  halter-puller  now  is  in  the  right 
position ;  if  he  refuses  to  pull,  induce  him  to  do  so 


66 

by  frightening  him  in  some  manner.  My  experience 
with  halter-pullers  warrants  me  in  saying  this  plan 
is  lasting  and  efFectuaL  You  can  hitch  him  in  the 
stall,  let  him  remain  in  that  position  through  the 
night.  He  can  lie  down,  get  up,  and  move  around 
the  stall  without  injuring  himself  in  any  way.  Hitch 
him  each  day  at  different  points  where  he  has  been 
in  the  habit  of  pulling,  after  which  you  need  have 
no  fears   of  his  breaking  a  common  halter 


A  Rnna^v^ay,  Bolting',  or  Plunging  Hoi'se. 

This  is  a  very  dangerous  vice,  one  accompanied 
with  a  great  amount  of  danger  to  limb  and  life.  If 
the  horse,  when  making  an  effort  to  run,  becomes 
very  wild  and  desperate,  and  in  bolting,  would  jump 
off  some  bridge  or  precipice,  it  is  highly  necessary  to 
have  some  means  of  controlling  him,  and  to  bring 
him  to  a  sudden  stop.  To  accomplish  this,  use  the 
cord  with  small  loop  placed  around  the  under  jaw 
of  the  horse  ;  the  other  end  is  carried  over  his  neck, 
brought  back,  and  passed  through  the  small  loop 
attached  to  the  under  jaw,  and  thence  back  into  the 
wagon.  The  running  loop  over  the  horse's  neck 
should  be  kept  well  back  to  his  shoulder.  Now  pre- 
pare two  long  foot  straps,  and  attach  the  end  with 
short  strap  to  the  ankle  of  each  forward  foot.  The 
other  ends  pass  through  between  the  girth  and  body 
of  the  horse,  outside  of  the  traces  and  into  the  wagon. 
Hold  your  long  footstraps  and  cord  in  your  hand 
with  the  reins,  then  drive  him  along  in  places  where 


67 

he  would  be  most  apt  to  scare.  If  lie  attempts  to 
run  or  bolt,  give  him  a  strong  pull  with  the  cord,  at 
the  same  time  say  (with  firmness)  "what  are  you 
doing,  sir?  go  'long."  That  may  cause  him  to 
straighten  up,  and  perhaps  give  him  a  sudden  start; 
if  so,  give  him  another  pull,  and  say,  "carefully,  sir !" 
If  the  second  pull  does  not  check  his  speed,  and  you 
think  he  may  get  the  best  of  you,  then  is -the  time  to 
pull  on  the  foot  straps  ;  take  his  feet  from  him,  and 
drop  him  to  his  knees,  pronouncing  the  word  whoa. 
That  brings  him  to  a  stop  without  any  failure.  Now 
ease  up  on  your  foot  straps  ;  do  not  hold  him  by  the 
feet  after  dropping  him  to  his  knees,  for  in  so  doing 
he  would  be  likely  to  struggle,  fall  over,  and  perhaps 
break  your  shafts.  Again  start  him,  if  he  attempts 
the  same  move,  take  his  feet  and  bring  him  to  a 
stop.  He  will  not  attempt  the  same  move  but  a  few 
times.  There  is  nothing  that  will  so  frighten  a  horse, 
as  to  think  he  is  going  to  be  pitched  on  his  head. 
The  plan  will  effectually  conquer  and  subdue  that 
willful  disposition.  After  driving  him  a  few  times 
with  both  webs,  you  may  then  feel  safe  to  drive  him 
with  one.  Every  few  days  repeat  the  lesson  with 
cord,  and  one  long  foot  strap ;  a  lesson  each  day  for 
a  few  days  will  produce  the  desired  result.  The  same 
plan  is  adopted  with  colts  that  are  in  the  habit  of 
running,  and  kicking  at  dogs,  hogs,  pieces  of  paper 
flying  in  the  street,  and  the  like.  They  are  constantly 
on  the  lookoLit  for  such  objects,  and  the  driver  or 
owner  is  never  safe.     Place  the  cord  as  recommended 


68 

above,  into  the  mouth,  and  the  webbing  to  the- foot, 
or  both  if  necessary  ;  for  my  experience  in  handling 
horses  has  convinced  me  that  some  horses  have  the 
strength  and  will,  to  run  a  fourth  of  a  mile  on  three 
feet ;  that  is  the  reason  why,  in  some  cases,  I  use  the 
long  strap  attached  to  both  feet.  In  that  case  you 
disconcert  them  at  once.  If  the  colt  is  very  head- 
strong wliQ^i  frightened,  place  the  webbing  to  both 
forward  feet,  and  cord  in  the  mouth.  Also  with  open 
bridle,  so  he  can  see  all  around  him.  Take  a  dog  into 
the  wagon  with  you  ;  as  you  are  driving  quietly  along 
toss  the  dog  out  on  the  same  side  you  are  driving 
your  colt.  If  he  attempts  to  kick  and  run,  give  him 
a  sudden  pull  with  the  cord  ;  at  the  same  time  take 
his  feet  from  him,  saying  whoa.  Get  out,  pat  and 
caress  him ;  then  repeat  it  again.  A  few  lessons  will 
break  him. 


Pavring;  in  tlte  Stall. 

Get  a  common  trace  chain,  about  two  feet  long ; 
fasten  it  to  the  leg  that  he  paws  with,  just  above  the 
knee,  with  a  hame  strap,  and  let  the  chain  swing  to 
the  side  of  the  leg.     He  will  soon  be  glad  to  keep  it 

still. 


Kicking  in   the  Stall. 

Some  horses  acquire  this  vice  from  mere  irritabil- 
ity, and  uneasiness  in  the  stall.  If  the  horse  kicks 
with  but  one  foot,  he  can  be  broken  ver^easy,  by 
attaching  a  wooden  clog  to  the  ankle  of  the  foot  that 


he  kicks  with.  If  witli  both  feet,  take  the  saddle 
part  of  a  harness,  and  buckle  on  tightly,  then  take 
a  short  strap,  with  a  ring  and  buckle  around  the  for- 
ward foot,  below  the  fetlock.  To  this  strap  attach 
another  strap,  bring  up,  and  pass  through  the  turrets 
down  to  the  hind  foot,  below  the  fetlock.  With  this 
attachment  on  each  side,  the  moment  that  he  kicks 
he  will  pull  his  forward  feet  from  under  him,  which 
brings  him  to  his  knees,  and  he  will  be  careful  not  to 
do  so  very  often.  Let  him  stand  in  the  stall  in  this 
way  until  he  gives  up  the  foolish  habit. 


Ticious  jBiters. 

If  he  is  a  stallion,  with  the  confirmed  habit  of 
biting  and  striking  at  your  approach,  I  can  give  you 
but  little  encouragement.  I  would  not  think  it  worth 
while  to  attempt  to  break  him,  but  would  advise  you 
to  castrate  him  at  once.  However,  I  have  bought 
several  bad  biting  stallions,  and  effectually  cured 
them  of  the  vice  while  in  my  possession ;  but  on  the 
approach  of  a  stranger,  they  would  show  more  or  less 
viciousness.  I  have  known  owners  of  such  horses 
to  whip  them  until  they  would  tremble  in  every  joint, 
and  were  (seemingly)  almost  ready  to  drop,  but  have 
never,  in  a  single  case,  known  them  cured  by  such 
treatment.  In  twenty  minutes  he  is  as  determined  as 
ever,  to  renew  the  combat.  He  seems  unable  to 
resist  the  temptation.  I  sometimes  think  it  a  species 
of  insanity.  If  you  have  a  mare  or  gelding  in  pos- 
session of  the  vice,  you  can  easily  cure  them.    Place 


70 

the  small  loop  of  the  cord  round  the  under  jaw,  with 
ranning  loop  over  the  neck ;  have  the  small  loop  fit 
so  close  around  the  jaw  that  he  cannot  spit  it  out, 
also  under  the  tongue.  The  other  end  carry  out  of 
the  stall,  and  bang  on  the  peg  where  jou  hang  your 
harness.  Now,  as  you  step  up  to  the  stall,  take  hold 
of  the  cord  with  one  hand,  the  other  place  on  his 
quarter,  and  say,  "stand  over."  If  he  attempts  to 
frisk,  or  bite  at  3^ou,  give  him  a  sudden  pull  and  say, 
"  take  care,  sir !"  then  pass  into  the  stall.  If  he  again 
attempts  to  bite  at  you,  give  him  another  sharp  pull, 
saying,  "  what  are  you  doing,  sir?"  Give  him  a  few 
lessons  of  this  kind,  and  a  cure  is  performed. 

Bad  to  Bridle,  Harness,  or  Oroom. 

A  horse  that  is  bad  to  bridle,  is  generally  one  that  is 
tender  about  the  ears ;  those  bad  to  groom  or  harness 
are  naturally  very  sensitive  skinned.  A  sharp  curry 
comb  is  very  irritating,  and  in  the  act  of  harnessing, 
should  there  be  a  sore  or  chafed  spot,  it  creates  a  spas- 
modic, nervous  movement  of  the  skin.  Such  horses 
can  easily  be  broken  of  the  vice  by  the  use  of  the  cord. 
Place  the  long  loop  around  the  neck,  with  running 
loop  in  the  mouth,  as  for  bitting.  Stand  by  the 
shoulder,  give  him  a  sharp  pull  with  the  cord,  at  the 
same  time  repeating  some  word,  such  as  "  whoa,  boy," 
"  be  careful,"  "be  quiet,"  or  the  like.  Now  step  to 
his  side,  pat  and  caress  him  about  the  head,  neck,  and 
shoulders.  Steadily  pull  the  cord  through  the  mouth 
with  your  right  hand ;  with  your  left  softly  handle 


71 

his  ears  until  he  becomes  quiet  A  few  times  bridling 
with  the  cord  will  cure  him  of  the  vice.  For  grooming 
or  harnessing,  use  the  cord  the  same.  If  he  will  not 
stand  quiet  to  be  harnessed  or  groomed,  a  few  sharp 
pulls  to  the  right  and  left  will  bring  him  to  a  surren- 
der. Use  the  cord  each  time  for  a  few  days,  and  he 
will  become  docile  and  quiet. 


Rollisi^  ill   the   Sta.ll. 

In  the  first  place  break  your  horse  from  rolling  in 
the  stable,  for  it  is  a  habit  that  cannot  be  indulged  in 
without  a  chance  of  being  cast.  Some  horses  will 
get  cast,  bruised,  and  half  strangled,  yet  he  will  roll 
again  the  next  night,  and  continue  to  as  long  as  he 
lives.  My  plan  to  break  up  this  habit  is  to  place  a 
thin,  soft  pad  under  the  surcingle,  with  sharp  nails 
so  arranged  that  they  will  run  through  the  pad  and 
prick  him,  when  he  attempts  to  roll. 


Crettiiigf  Cast  in  tlie  Stall. 

If  there  is  anything  that  will  vex,  and  irritate  the 
proprietor  of  a  stable,  it  is  to  have  some  one  of  his 
horses  getting  cast  in  the  stall.  Every  night  a 
thundering  noise  is  heard,  and  some  one  calls  out, 
"  you  have  a  horse  cast."  Up  he  gets,  hurries  to  the 
stable,  and  with  a  great  deal  of  hard  labor  they  finall  v 
succeed  in  getting  the  horse  to  his  feet,  stiff,  and 
badly  galled.  Observe  the  following  and  you  w^ill 
have  no  such  trouble.  Place  on  your  horse  a  five 
4 


72 

ring  strap  lialter,  (  a  five  ring  halter  lie  cannot  slip,) 
where  the  strap  comes  over  the  head,  just  back  of 
the  ears,  attach  a  one  and  a  half  inch  ring ;  do  not 
slip  the  top  piece  through  the  ring ;  jou  must  make 
it  fast,  so  it  will  not  slip  to  the  right  or  the  left ;  get 
a  strap  four  inches  long,  one  inch  and  a  quarter  wide  ; 
set  your  ring  in  the  center  of  the  strap  that  comes 
over  the  top  of  his  head,  then  run  the  four  inch  strap 
through  the  ring,  stitching  both  ends,  leaving  the 
ring  fast  in  the  centre ;  with  the  tie-strap  of  your 
halter,  make  fast  to  the  ring  of  the  manger ;  leave 
sufficient  length  to  put  his  nose  within  one  foot  of 
the  floor.  Over  his  head,  and  in  the  floor  above,  at- 
tach a  staple  and  ring;  now  put  his  nose  within 
one  foot  of  the  floor,  and  get  the  distance  from  the 
-ring  in  the  top  of  the  halter  to  the  ring  in  the  staple 
above,  about  a  foot  back  from  the  manger.  The 
horse  has  the  liberty  to  lie  down,  but  cannot  lay  his 
head  sidewise,  consequently  he  cannot  get  cast  The 
above  never  fails. 


Driving  on  One  Rein. 

Even  the  angles  of  the  mouth  with  the  bitting  cord. 
Then  keep  the  blinders  up  so  that  he  cannot  see  the 
driver,  for  this  is  often  the  cause  —  he  is  often  watch- 
ing back  with  one  eye,  and  carrying  his  head  to  that 
side,  constantly  pulling  upon  the  opposite  rein.  Of- 
tentimes it  is  caused  by  the  grinders  being  sharp  ; 
if  so,  file  them  off. 


78 

Mai'd  Pullers. 

It  is  often  remarked,  and  by  horsemen,  too,  if  yon 
have  a  hard  puller  upon  the  bit,  give  him  all  the 
road  he  wants,  and  let  him  go.  If  he  goes  too  fast, 
jerk  him  up,  first  with  one  line,  then  with  the  other. 
I  have  known  some  hard  pullers,  by  giving  them 
the  rein,  and  all  the  road  they  wanted,  would  run 
until  they  would  fall,  and  repeat  the  same  thing  day 
after  day.  The  idea  is  perfectly  absurd.  It  will 
amount  to  nothing  but  a  broken  down  constitution. 
Let  me  speak  of  a  simple  plan  by  which  you  can 
control  such  horses  at  pleasure.  Get  a  common 
snaffle  bit,  around  which  weld  two  iron  rings  one 
inch  and  a  half  in  diameter.  The  bit  is  now  placed 
in  the  horse's  mouth,  with  rings  slipped  close  to  the 
cheek  bars ;  get  a  half  inch  strap,  ten  inches  in  length, 
with  billet  buckle  and  loop  attached  to  each  end, 
same  as  for  buckling  check  reins  in  bits ;  now  place 
it  across  the  horse's  nose,  and  buckle  each  end  into 
the  rings  that  are  welded  around  the  bit.  That 
brings  the  rings  very  close  each  side  of  the  upper 
jaw ;  stich  to  the  centre  of  the  strap  across  the  nose, 
one  end  of  another  half  inch  strap  eighteen  inches 
long  ;  to  the  other  end  attach  the  buckle  on  the  top 
of  the  bridle  and  between  the  ears.  This  is  to  keep 
the  nose  piece  from  dropping  over  the  nostril. '  The 
bit  is  now  arranged.  Place  3''0ur  horse  between  your 
shafts  ;  buckle  your  reins  and  start  him  along.  Drive 
him  with  a  slack  rein  as  long  as  he  is  quiet.  If  he 
attempts  to  go  very  fast,  pull  upon  the  lines.     As 


74 

you  pull,  the  rings  around  tlie  bit  crowd  witli  more 
force  against  the  sides  of  the  face,  throwing  his  mouth 
wide  open,  and  causing  the  most  excruciating  pain. 
Drive  him  a  few  days  with  a  bit  so  arranged,  after 
which  any  boy  twelve  years  of  age  can  drive  him 
with  perfect  ease. 


TTongwe  Over  tlie  ISit. 

Attach  to  your  bridle  a  check  bit,  as  follows : — 
Procure  a  small  steel  bar  bit ;  a  small  one,  so  the 
cheek  bars  will  sit  close  each  side  of  the  horse's  face. 
To  this  bit  buckle  checks  and  cheek  pieces  of  bridle ; 
through  this  bit  drill  two  holes,  leaving  a  space  be- 
tween, and  in  the  centre,  of  two  inches  and  a  half; 
get  a  thick  piece  of  harness  leather  six  inches  long ; 
cut  it  in  the  form  of  a  diamond,  two  and  a  half  inches 
wide,  with  ends  rounded  off  to  a  point.  The  centre 
of  this  piece  of  leather-is  doubled  over  the  bit,  with 
edges  just  covering  the  two  holes  ;  it  is  now  stitched 
together  across,  and  close  to  the  bit ;  also  edges  of 
points  are  stitched  firmly  together ;  as  the  bit  is  placed 
in  the  mouth,  the  rounded  points  of  the  leather  run 
back  into  the  horse's  mouth,  and  top  of  the  tongue. 
He  is  now  checked  up,  and  the  bit  kept  snug  in  his 
mouth;  your  reins  are  not  to  be  buckled  to  this 
check' bit,  but  another  is  used  for  driving.  Gret  a" 
common  snaffle  bit.  This  is  made  fast  to  the  cheek 
pieces  of  the  bridle  with  a  couple  of  small  half-inch 
straps  five  inches  long,  with  buckle  and  loop  attached, 
letting  it  hang  in  the  mouth,  one  inch  below  the  check 


75 

bit;  to  this  attach  your  reins.  Yon  now  have  a 
driving,  as  well  as  a  check  bit.  If  the  horse  attempts 
to  work  his  tongue  over  the  bit,  the  piece  of  leather, 
so  attached,  will  prevent  him  at  once.  Should  he 
(as  is  seldom  the  case)  carry  his  tongue  under  the  bit 
and  out  of  the  mouth,  to  the  holes  drilled  through 
the  bit  attach  a  piece  of  large  wire,  passing  the  ends 
through ;  let  the  centre  drop  one  half  inch  below, 
same  aa  a  wide  wire  staple.  When  you  put  the  bit 
in  his  mouth,  pull  his  tongue  through  the  loop,  see- 
ing that  the  space  is  large  enough  for  it  to  sit  easy. 
These  plans  will  soon  break  a  horse  of  the  contempt- 
ible habit. 


To  Slioe  a  Horse  tliat  is  Vicious. 

I  care  not  how  vicious  a  horse  may  be  when  shoe- 
ing him,  I  think  I  can  make  the  worst  of  the  kind 
stand  perfectly  still  in  ten  minutes,  so  that  the  smith 
will  have  no  further  trouble.  The  plan  which  is 
adopted  by  the  smiths  in  general  is  not  only  cruel, 
but  has  a  tendency  to  make  them  far  worse.  A  colt 
is  taken  to  the  shop,  wild  and  uneducated;  and  du- 
ring-the  process  of  setting  the  shoes,  if  he  makes  a 
wrong  move,  the  smith  gets  in  a  fearful  rage,  gives 
him  a  sharp  blow  with  the  hammer  or  rasp,  the  horse 
rears  and  plunges,  and  is  so  frightened  he  will  not 
allow  a  hand  laid  upon  him.  The  next  move  is  to 
fetter  or  cast  hi  m.  A  rope  is  put  around  his  neck, 
then  to  the  ankle  of  each  of  his  hind  feet,  then  for- 
ward ;  with  perhaps  two  men  at  each  end ;  they  pull 


76 

on  the  rope,  and  the  horse  is  thrown  back  upon  his 
haunches.  I  have  seen  fine  horses  so  injured  across 
the  loins  bj  adopting  this  plan  of  throwing  them, 
that  they  were  never  again  fit  for  use. 

Another  plan  is  t-o  put  a  pair  of  tongs  upon  his 
nose,  then  a  I'ope  to  the  ankle  of  one  of  his  hind  feet, 
and  through  a  ring  made  fast  to  his  tail ;  his  foot  is 
drawn  back;  and  made  fiast  to  the  side  of  the 
shop. 

Now,  I  ask  any  man  if  there  is  any  common  sense 
in  employing  such  means  by  which  to  shoe  a  wild 
horse.  If  a  horse  struggles,  which  he  is  sure  to  do, 
he  must  get  badly  injured.  In  shoeing  a  bad  horse, 
never  confine  him.  Get  a  small  cord,  about  ten  feet 
in  length,  place  it  around  his  neck  and  into  his  mouth, 
just  as  recommended  for  halter  breaking,  balking, 
&c.  All  it  will  cost  you  is  five  cents,  and  by  its  use 
you  can  shoe  the  worst  of  the  kind  without  trouble. 
In  attempting  to  raise  the  foot,  if  the  horse  should 
rear  or  attempt  to  kick,  let  go  the  foot  and  give  him  a 
sudden  pull  with  the  cord  ;  then  pat  him  on  the  neck, 
saying,  "Ho  !  boy ;  ho,  boy  ;"  then  hold  the  cord  in 
your  hand,  and  with  the  right  pick  up  his  foot.  If 
he  does  not  stand  quiet,  put  his  foot  down,  and  give 
him  two  or  three  sudden  pulls  with  the  cord.  Handle 
him  in  that  manner  ten  minutes,  and  he  will  not  dare 
to  move.  Smiths,  in  many  places,  have  said  they 
would  not  be  deprived  of  the  use  of  the  above  plan 
for  one  hundred  dollars. 


77 

For  Teacliiiig  a  Horse  to  jBack,  or  a  Horse 
tlmt  i.s  in  tlie  ]ial>il;  oi'  Boltiug-. 

The  cord  is  all  that  is  necessary  for  teaching  jonr 
horse  to  back.  Place  a  pair  of  them  around  his  neck 
and  into  his  mouth,  one  on  each  side.  Get  behind 
your  horse,  and  you  can  teach  him  to  back  at  the 
word  in  twenty  minutes.  For  a  bolting  horse,  use 
but  one.  If  he  is  in  the  habit  of  bolting  to  the  right, 
place  the  cord  on  the  left  side,  and  back  into  the 
wagon.  If  to  the  left,  place  it  on  the  right  side  of 
the  neck,  and  into  the  wagon ;  and  when  he  attempts 
to  bolt,  a  sudden  pull  will  bring  him  in  the  right 
direction.  Drive  him  with  a  cord  a  short  time,  and 
he  is  broken  of  the  vice.  To  educate  him  to  the  word 
"Whoa,"  a  little  pull,  accompanied  with  the  words, 
'Ho!  boy,'  is  all  that  is  necessary,  and  he  will  obey  you 


Xhe  Plan  for'  a  Hreacliy  Horse. 

A  breachy  horse  is  one  that  costs  the  farmer  a  great 
amount  of  time  and  trouble.  He  goes  to  the  pasture 
field,  but  is  never  sure  of  finding  him  where  he  per- 
haps left  him  the  evening  previous.  Mr.  Cole's  plan, 
by  which  to  prevent  ahorse  from  jumping,  is  to  place 
a  leather  surcingle  tight  around  his  body,  with  inch 
ring  under  the  chest,  fastened  to  the  surcingle ;  also, 
a  strap  one  inch  wide,  eight  inches  in  length,  buckled 
around  the  ankle  of  the  left  hind  foot,  with  ring  at- 
tached ;  a  strap  one  inch  wide,  three  and  a  half  or 
four  feet  in  length,  (the  length  of  this  strap  is  gov- 
erned according  to  the  size  of  the  horse,)   one   end 


78 

buckled  in  the  ring  under  the  chest,  the  other  end 
to  the  ring  attached  to  the  ankle.  If  the  horse 
should  attempt  to  jump,  placed  in  such  a  position, 
he  deprives  himself  of  the  use  of  the  left  hind  foot, 
has  not  power  in  the  right,  sufficient  to  rise — conse- 
quently he  must  fail  in  his  attempt.  In  most  cases 
the  plan  proves  quite  effectual. 

To  improve  this  surcingle,  and  prevent  its  working 
back,  attach  another  ring  to  front  edge,  and  under 
chest ;  to  this  ring  attach  another  strap  as  follows : 
procure  a  strap  one  inch  and  a  half  wide  and  two  feet 
long;  split  this  strap  in  the  centre  to  within  four 
inches  of  one  end,  being  the  same  as  the  crotch  end 
of  an  old  fashion  standing  martingale ;.  the  wide  end 
is  passed  through  the  ring  under  the  chest,  with  two 
inch  lap,  and  stitched  fast,  eight  inches  from  the  ends 
of  split  strap  ;  a  buckle  is  made  fast,  leaving  a  billet 
eight  inches  in  length.  Now  bring  one  of  the  split 
straps  around  the  left  arm  outside  ;  carry  it  back  be- 
tween the  forward  legs,  pass  the  eight  inch  billet 
through  the  ring  under  the  chest,  again  forward, 
drawing  up  the  slack  and  buckling  fast ;  the  other 
part  of  split  strap  is  carried  around  the  nigh  arm  of 
the  horse,  and  made  fast  same  as  left  one.  You  see 
the  hors.e  has  the  privilege  of  walking  around  the 
pasture,  but  cannot  easily  trot  or  run,  and  should  he  at- 
tempt to  jump,  in  the  act  of  raising  forward,  the  straps 
tighten,  he  has  no  use  of  his  forward  legs,  and  is  dis- 
concerted at  once.  I  have  known  horses  fail  to  jump 
a  fence  four  rails  high,  with  that  simple  attachment. 


79 

Ho^v  to  Catcli  a  Horse  in  I^astttrc. 

The  prevailing  opinion  of  horsemen  generally  is, 
that  the  sense  of  smell  is  the  governing  sense  of  the 
horse,  and  that  no  means  can  be  employed  by  which 
to  catch  a  wild  horse  in  pasture  without  the  use  of 
strong  smelling  oils.  Sullivan,  Faucher,  as  well  as 
others,  have  got  up  receipts  of  strong  smelling  oils,  to 
catch  and  tame  a  wild  horse  —  sometimes  using  the 
castor  of  his  leg,  which  they  dry,  grind  into  a  powder, 
and  blow  into  his  nostrils,  sometimes  using  the  oil  of 
rhodium,  cummin,  and  organum,  that  are  noted  for 
their  strong  smell,  and  sometimes  they  scent  the 
hands  with  the  sweat  from  under  the  arms,  and  blow 
their  breath  into  his  nostrils ;  all  of  which,  as  far  as 
the  scent  goes,  have  no  efiect  whatever  in  gentling 
or  subduing  the  horse,  or  conveying  any  idea  to  his 
mind,  though  the  work  that  accompany  these  efforts 
—  handling  him,  touching  him  about  the  nose  and 
head,  and  patting  him,  as  they  direct  you  should 
after  administering  the  article — will  have  a  very  great 
effect,  which  they  mistake  for  the  effect  of  the  ingre- 
dients used.  By  using  the  oils,  you  can  approach  a 
wild  horse  in  pasture,  and,  after  caressing  him  for  a 
length  of  time,  get  your  halter  on  his  head,  but  when 
you  attempt  to  lead  him,  he  is  off  as  wild  as  ever. 

Faucher,  in  his  work  entitled  The  Arabian  Art  of 
Taming  Horses^  page  17,  tells  us  how  to  accustom  a 
horse  to  a  robe  by  administering  certain  articles  to 
his  nose,  and  goes  on  to  say,  that  these  articles  must 
first  be  applied  to  the  horse's  nose  before  you  attempt 
*4 


80 

to  break  him,  in  order  to  operate  successfully.  Kow 
reader,  can  you,  or  any  one  else,  give  one  single  rea- 
son how  scent  can  convey  any  idea  to  the  horse's 
mind  of  what  we  want  him  to  do  ?  If  not,  then  of 
course,  strong  scents  of  any  kind  are  of  no  account 
in  taming  the  unbroken  horse  ;  for  everything  that 
we  get  him  to  do  of  his  own  accord,  without  force, 
must  be  accomplished  by  some  means  of  conveying 
our  idea  to  his  mind.  I  say  to  my  horse,  "  Gro  long," 
and  he  goes;  "  whoa,"  and  he  stops,  because  these 
two  words  —  of  which  he  has  learned  the  meaning 
by  the  tap  of  the  whip,  and  the  pull  of  the  rein,  that 
first  accompanied  them  —  convey  the  two  ideas  to 
his  mind  of  go  and  stop.  Faucher,  nor  any  one  else, " 
can  ever  learn  the  horse  a  single  thing  by  means 
of  the  scent  alone.  IIow  long  do  you  suppose  a 
horse  would  have  to  stand  and  smell  of  a  bottle 
of  oil  before  he  would  learn  to  bend  the  knee,  and 
make  a  bow  at  your  bidding,  go  yonder  and  bring 
your  hat,  or  come  here  and  lie  down  ? 

Thus  you  see  the  absurdity  of  trying  to  break,  or 
tame  the  horse  by  the  means  of  recipes  for  articles  to 
smell  of,  or  medicines  to  give  him,  of  any  kind  what- 
ever. The  only  science  which  has  ever  existed  in  the 
world,  relative  to  breaking  horses,  that  has  been  of 
any  account,  is  that  true  method  which  takes  them 
in  their  natural  state  of  mind,  and  improves  their 
intelligence.  Consequently,  if  you  wish  to  educate 
your  horse  in  a  proper  manner,  adopt  a  mechanical 
process.     He  will  then  fully  comprehend  your  mean- 


81 

ing,  and  obey  at  tlie  word.  If  jour  horse  is  wild, 
and  will  not  be  caught  when  in  pasture,  drive  him 
into  the  barn  and  close  the  doors,  and  make  them 
fast,  after  which  adopt  Mr.  Smith's  plan  on  fifth  and 
sixth  pages.  It  will  bring  him  up  to  you,  and  he 
will  follow  you  just  where  you  wish  to ;  after  which 
you  can  go  to  the  pasture  field,  and  say,  "  come 
here,  bay,"  and  he  obeys  the  call  at  once,  and  gives 
you  no  further  trouble. 


82 


NEW  AND  LATEST  IMPROVEMENTS. 


No  doubt  jou  are  well  aware  tliat  my  book  is 
copy -righted,  also  stereotyped ;  and  since  the  date 
of  this  edition,  I  have  made  some  valuable  improve- 
ments. I  thought  it  a  better  way,  to  add  the  late 
improvements,  than  to  strike  out  the  old  and  inter- 
line the  new.  By  so  doing,  you  can  have  a  thorough 
knowledore  as  well  as  the  benefit  of  both. 


My  First  is  for  Ila,lter-]lrea.king-«, 

After  your  colt  is  made  to  follow  by  the  use  of 
the  whip,  the  next  move  is  to  satisfy  him  beyond  a 
doubt,  that  you  can  control  his  head.  The  attach- 
ment is  made  as  follows :  Gret  a  strap  one  inch  wide, 
and  two  feet  in  length  ;  on  one  end  of  this  strap 
make  fast  one  inch  and  a  half  iron  ring  ;  the  other 
end  punch  your  holes  ready  for  passing  through  a 
buckle  that  I  shall  soon  prepare.  Now,  in  the  same 
ring,  (attached  to  end  of  said  strap,)  make  fast  a 
short  inch  strap,  of  sufficient  length  to  make  fast  a 
buckle  with  loop.  Now,  understand  me  ;  this  strap, 
two  feet  in  length,  is  passed  around  the  horse's  neck 
to  the  off  side,  brought  over  to  the  nigh,  passed 
through  the  buckle  and  made  fast  around  his  neck 
about  one  foot  back  from  his  ears  with  inch  and  a 
half  ring  hanging  on  the  under  side  of  his  neck 


83 

Now  procure  a  piece  of  lialf-mch  square  rubber, 
eight  inches  in  length,  or  a  piece  of  stiff  elastic  web- 
bing, of  same  length.  Now,  understand  me  fully. 
One  end  of  this  rubber  is  passed  up  through  the  ring 
and  between  the  off  side  of  the  horse's  neck  and 
strap ;  the  lower  end  of  the  rubber  dropping 
through  the  ring  about  one  inch  ;  the  upper  eud  of 
said  rubber  is  stitched  and  made  fast  to  inside  of  the 
strap  eight  inches  above  the  ring ;  now  procure  a 
half-inch,  hard  twisted  cord,  (cotton  or  hair  is  pref- 
erable,) fifteen  feet  in  length.  One  end  of  said  cord 
is  made  fast  to  the  lower  end  of  the  rubber  that 
drops  through  the  ring  under  his  neck. 

Now,  your  halter-breaking  attachment  is  finished, 
and,  I  think,  explained  so  you  may  get  one  made 
easily.  Now  for  its  use.  After  you  have  the  three 
points  established  with  your  colt.  Fear,  Love  and 
Obey,  and  he  follows  quite  handily,  you  then  buckle 
this  attachment  around  his  neck  quite  snug ;  then 
slip  it  from  his  head  down,  about  twelve  or  fifteen 
inches,  after  which  pass  the  cord  that  is  attached  to 
your  rubber  through  his  mouth,  and  back  through 
the  ring.  You  have  him  now  perfectly  under  your 
control.  Now  take  hold  of  the  lower  end  of  the 
cord,  and  step  to  the  nigh  side  of  j^our  colt,  about 
opposite  of  his  shoulder,  and  give  him  a  sudden 
pull ;  then  step  to  the  opposite  side,  and  do  the  same. 
You  will  see  at  once,  you  have  one  of  the  most 
powerful  instruments  for  controlling  the  head,  ever 
made  known.     You  discover  at  once,   by   pulling 


84 

upon  the  cord,  the  rubber  gives,  and  the  cord  slides 
quickly  through  the  mouth,  and  soon  as  you  ease  or 
slacken  up  the  end  that  you  hold  in  hand,  the 
strength  of  the  rubber  brings  it  quickly  back  to  its 
place.  So  you  see  at  once  the  attachment  has  more 
than  twice  the  subduing  power  that  the  cord  has, 
used  in  the  old  fashioned  way. 

After  working  your  colt  about  ten  minutes  with 
the  above  attachment,  you  may  then  remove  it. 
Place  your  halter  upon  his  head,  stand  by  his  shoul- 
der on  the  near  side,  and  with  a  spring-top  whip, 
touch  him  lightly  on  his  quarters,  and  he  will  readily 
start  off,  and  lead  quietly  wherever  you  may  wish  to 
go.  Your  colt  is  now  halter-broken,  and  is  ready  to 
be  put  into  the  surcingle,  and  made  to  know  that  he 
must  submit  to  all  of  your  requirements,  the  use  of 
which  you  fully  understand  from  the  explanation  on 
a  previous  page. 

Bitting  tlie  Colt. 

The  attachment  I  use  for  bitting,  is  made  the  same 
as  for  halter-breaking,  with  the  following  improve- 
ment. You  understand,  for  halter-breaking,  I  use 
but  one  cord  ;  for  bitting,  I  use  two.  I  explained  to 
you  how  the  cord  was  made  fast  to  the  rubber  on 
the  off  side  of  the  horse's  neck,  and  brought  through 
the  mouth  to  the  near  side,  and  back  through  the 
ring.  That  is  all  right,  so  far,  for  bitting.  Now, 
please  take  notice.  The  strap  by  which  the  buckle 
is  made  fast  to  the  near  side  of  the  horse's  neck,  for 


85 

bitting,  I  want  made  ten  inches  in  length,  so  that  a 
rubber  of  the  same  length  and  size  may  be  made 
fast  to  the  near  side  of  the  horse's  neck,  with  cord 
made  fast,  the  same  as  the  off  side.  Now,  you  see, 
I  have  two  elastic  rubbers  —  one  attached  to  the 
strap  on  each  side  of  the  horse's  neck ;  also  a  cord 
made  to  each  end.  Let  it  be  remembered,  in  bitting 
the  colt,  the  first  thing  is  to  get  an  easy,  governable 
mouth,  so  that  he  will  come  quick  and  handy  to  the 
rein  ;  then  as  you  commence  driving  him  in  harness, 
you  can  each  day  shorten  your  check  rein  a  trifle,  until 
lie  will  carry  his  head  gracefully,  without  giving  him 
pain.  The  movement  with  the  bitting  is  as  follows : 
Take  the  cord  attached  to  the  rubber  on  the  off  side 
of  his  neck  ,  pass  it  through  the  mouth  to  the  near 
side,  and  back  through  the  ring ;  the  one  on  the  near 
side  pass  through  the  mouth  to  the  off  side,  and 
back  through  the  ring.  You  now  have  a  double 
cord  in  the  mouth,  the  end  of  each  separate,  one 
hanging  loosely  through  the  ring ;  step  to  the  near 
side  of  your  colt,  and  with  the  off  side  cord,  give 
him  a  sudden  pull,  that  brings  him  a  few  steps  to- 
wards you,  after  which  step  quickly  to  the  off  side, 
and  with  the  nea^r  side  cord  give  him  another  sudden 
pull,  which  brings  him  suddenly  to  the  opposite  di- 
rection. Exercise  him  in  that  manner  for  about  ten 
minutes  the  first  day ;  the  next  day,  about  ten  min- 
utes, and  so  on  for  four  or  five  days,  and  your  colt 
will  have  an  easy,  governable  mouth,  and  will  rein 
quickly  and  easily  to  the  right  and  left.     I  think 


yoii  will  readily  discover  the  value  of  this  over  all 
other  attachments  for  bitting.  By  pulling  quickly 
the  cord  on  the  near  side  of  his  neck,  the  rubber  on 
the  opposite  side  gives,  letting  the  cord  play  through 
the  mouth,  which  throws  his  head  upward,  and 
quickly  towards  you.  You  then  step  to  the  opposite, 
and  give  the  cord  on  the  off  side  a  sudden  pull, 
which  will  cause  the  rubber  on  the  near  side  of  his 
neck  to  give,  letting  the  cord  play  through  the 
mouth,  same  as  before,  only  in  the  opposite  direction. 
After  using  an  attachment  as  above  described,  I 
think  you  will  readily  acknowledge  them  to  be  the 
best  ever  in  use,  to  even  the. angles  of  the  horse's 
mouth,  and  bring  him  quick  and  handy  to  the  rein. 


Safety  Bridles. 

You  are  well  aware  there  have  been  several  bridles 
introduced  before  the  public,  under  the  head  of 
safety  bridles  —  such  as  the  Hartman,  the  Miller,  the 
Needham  and  Clark  bridles,  all  of  which  will  work 
very  well  upon  some  horses ;  others  they  have  no 
effect  upon  whatever,  I  claim ;  and  I  challenge  con- 
tradiction when  I  make  the  statement  that  I  have  a 
bridle  worth  all  others  combined,  ever  made  public 
before  the  American  people.  I  claim  that  any  run- 
away, kicking,  bolting  or  plunging  horse  can  be 
handled  successfully,  and  effectually  broken  of  the 
vice ;  also  will  break  any  lugger  or  puller  on  the 
reins,  side  reiner,  or  one  that  carries  his  tongue  over 
the  bit  and  out  of  his  mouth.     The  bridle  is  made 


87 

as  follows.  However,  it  is  not  necessary  to  get  a  new 
one  entire,  unless  j^ou  think  it  preferable.  You  can 
place  the  following  attachment  upon  any  of  your 
common  driving,  or  riding  bridles :  Take  a  common 
snafiie  bit,  one  of  Daniels'  is  preferable ;  they  are 
made  by  hand,  and  of  the  best  steel,  and  the  only 
reliable  bit  in  use ;  take  your  bit  to  a  blacksmith 
shop,  and  get  welded  around  the  part  that  goes  in 
the  horse's  mouth,  two  one  inch  and  a  half  rings, 
made  of  steel  wire  or  nailrod,  rounded  down  to  about 
one  eighth  and  a  sixteenth  of  an  inch.  These  rings 
hang  loose  around  your  bit ;  the  bridle  is  now  placed 
upon  your  horse's  head  with  one  of  those  rings 
placed  each  side  of  his  mouth  and  against  the  cheek 
bars  of  the  bit.  Now  procure  two  three  quarter  inch 
straps,  nine  inches  in  length ;  at  each  end  turn  down 
a  one  inch  lap ;  they  are  now  seven  inches  in  length, 
aside  from  laps.  If  your  horse's  head  is  small  size, 
six  and  a  half  inches  will  be  of  sufficient  length. 
One  end  of  each  of  these  straps  is  stitched  fast  to 
each  of  these  inch  and  a  half  rings ;  the  other  ends 
of  said  straps  are  brought  up  across  the  horse's  nose 
about  six  inches  above  the  nostril,  and  stitched  fast 
to  another  one  inch  and  half  ring.  You  now  procure 
a  strap  two  inches  wide,  and  twelve  feet  long;  eight 
inches  of  one  end  of  this  strap  is  narrowed  down  to 
one  inch  and  a  half  wide,  a  lap  of  one  inch  turned 
at  the  end ;  this  lap  is  passed  through  the  one  inch 
and  a  half  ring  on  the  top  of  the  nose.  From  the 
point  where  it  is  narrowed  at  the  end,  I  want  it  split 


88 

through  to  the  other  end.  ISTow,  on  the  top  of  the 
head  piece,  just  at  th^e  inside  of  each  ear,  I  want  a 
three  quarter  strap,  one  inch  and  a  half  long,  stitched 
fast  at  each  end ;  that  forms  two  loops  on  the  top  of 
the  head  piece ;  take  one  end  of  each  of  the  straps 
that  3^ou  made  by  splitting  in  the  centre,  and  pass 
them  through  the  loops  on  the  top  of  the  head  piece, 
and  pull  them  through  the  wliole  length.  I  think 
3^ou  readily  see  how  the  fixture  is  arranged  until  it 
passes  from  the  top  of  the  head  back.  Take  the 
two  straps  that  pass  from  the  head  back,  and  pass 
them  through  the  terrets  on  the  top  of  your  harness 
pad  —  the  right  hand  one  through  the  terret  on  the 
off  side  of  the  back,  and  the  left  hand  one  through  the 
terret  on  the  near  side  of  the  back.  Now,  on  the  top 
of  3'our  horse's  quarters,  wdiere  the  hip-straps  pass 
through  the  back  strap^  make  fast  a  one  inch  and  a 
half  iron  ring.  It  is  made  fast  by  passing  a  short 
strap  through,  and  stitching  fast  at  each  end.  Again 
take  the  straps  that  you  have  passed  through  the' 
terrets  of  pad,  and  pass  them  both  through  the  ring 
on  the  top  of  the  hips,  letting  one  of  them  drop  on 
each  side  of  the  horse's  quarters. .  Now  prepare  your 
driving  reins  by  stitching  one  end  of  each  fast  to  the 
head  piece  on  the  under  side,  the  other  ends  brought 
down  through  the  bit  ring,  also  back  through  the 
terrets,   forming  a  pulley  purchase. 

However,  in  ordinary  cases,  all  that  will  be  neces- 
sar}^  is  to  have  your  reins  buckled  into  the  bit-ring, 
as  the  rings  attached  to  the  crotch  that  passes  over 


89 

the  nose  will  have  the  desired  effect.  If  you  have  a 
bad  kicker,  he  is  now  ready  to  hitch  to  wagon. 
Draw  your  wagon  up  to  your  horse,  pass  the  ends  of 
the  shafts  through  the  lug-straps,  hitch  your  traces 
and  quarter  straps  the  proper  length,  so  in  driving 
your  horse,  if  the  wheel  of  your  wagon  should  drop 
into  a  hole  on  the  road,  there  w^ould  be  but  little 
play  forward  and  back ;  also  buckle  your  girdle 
short,  to  prevent  your  shafts  from  raising.  Now 
bring  the  straps  that  pass  from  the  crotch  over  the 
nose,  also  through  the  loops  on  the  top  of  the  head, 
and  back  through  the  terrets  and  ring  that  is  made 
fast  to  the  "back  strap  on  the  top  of  the  hips ;  as  you 
pull  those  straps  through  the  ring,  you  raise  his  head 
as  high,  or  a  little  higher,  than  with  the  ordinary 
check  rein ;  on  the  under  side  of  your  shafts  and 
just  forward  of  the  cross-bar,  drive  a  one  inch  square 
staple  ;  bring  your  straps  down  over  the  swell  of  the 
hips  on  each  side ;  pass  the  ends  through  the  staples 
from  the  inside  up  over  the  shaft  on  the  outer  side, 
and  make  them  fast ;  take  hold  of  your  driving  reins, 
get  into  your  wagon  and  start  your  kicker  along ; 
have  no  fears  of  the  final  result,  for  j^ou  have  your 
horse  perfectly  under  your  control.  He  can  neither 
run  nor  kick,  and  should  he  make  an  effort  he  can 
do  no  harm.  If  he  attempts  to  raise  his  quarters, 
he  throws  his  head  violently  into  the  air,  and  the 
effort  will  set  him  to  counting  stars,  instead  of  kick- 
ing. 

If,  then,  he  should  attempt  to  run,  you  have  a  bit 


90 

by  whicli  you  can  hold  him  with  the  most  perfect 
ease.  A  few  weeks'  driving  will  effectually  break 
him  of  the  vice.  Also  for  a  horse  that  lugs  or  pulls 
on  the  reins,  have  your  rings  welded  around  the  bit, 
as  above  described,  a  crotch  over  the  nose,  and  light 
strap  from  the  crotch  through  the  loops  on  t,he  top 
of  the  head  and  back  to  .the  water-hook,  acting  the 
same  as  a  Kemble  Jackson  check.  This  will  break 
an}^  puller  or  lugger.  Eemember,  when  you  pull 
upon  the  reins,  you  do  not  injure  the  mouth  a  par- 
ticle. It  simply  draws  the  two  one  inch  and  a  half 
rings  firmly  against  his  jaws,  confining  them  almost 
as  closely  as  though  they  were  twisted  in  a  vice. 
Soon  as  he  quiets  down,  you  ease  up  on  your  reins, 
and  it  is  the  easiest  bit  in  the  world.  A  few  days' 
driving  will  break  him,  and  he  will  drive  quietly  on 
a  slack  rein. 

Another  point  to  be  considered  in  the  use  of  this 
bridle  —  breaking  a  horse  from  carrying  his  tongue 
over  the  bit  and  out  of  his  mouth.  Instead  of  a 
snaffle,  use  a  bar-bit,  with  inch  and  a  half  rings  ; 
crotch  over  the  nose  made  of  half  inch  straps ;  also 
half  inch  ring  on  the  top  of  the  nose  ;  another  half 
inch  strap,  one  end  stitched  fast  to  the  ring,  the  other 
end  brought  up  to  the  top  of  the  head  and  buckled 
to  the  crown  piece  of  jour  buckle  ;  this  will  keep 
the  bit  in  the  roof  of  his  mouth,  and  he  cannot  get 
his  tongue  over  it.  Tlie  simple  attachment  will  soon 
wear  the  habit  away. 

I  have  another  very  effectual  bit  for  breaking  a 


91 

bad  kicker  in  harness,  I  do  not  recommend  this  bit 
for  every  daj  driving,  for  it  is  very  harsh  and  severe. 
I  only  use  it  when  I  have  a  very  dangerous  kicker 
to  deal  with ;  and  when  he  kicks  against  it  a  few 
times,  you  may  calculate  he  is  effectually  broken  of 
the  dangerous  habit;  after  which  place  the  bridle 
with  rings  and  kicking  attachment  combined,  upon 
him,  and  in  a  few  weeks  you  may  consider  him  kind 
for  any  one  to  handle  or  drive.  The  bit  is  made  as 
follows :  procure  two  heavy  pieces  of  elastic  webbing, 
one  inch  wide  and  four  inches  in  length.  (If  you 
cannot  get  a  strong,  stiff  piece,  place  two  of  same 
length  together.)  There  is  a  buckle  made  fast  to  one 
end  of  each  of  those  pieces,  and  buckled  to  the  crown 
piece  hanging  down  each  side  of  the  head ;  to  the 
lower  end  of  each  of  said  rubbers  there  is  a  piece  of 
three -eighths  of  an  inch  cable  chain  attached,  eight 
inches  in  length,  with  one  inch  and  a  half  ring 
welded  at  the  other  end.  Now  understand  ;  the 
chain  on  the  near  side  of  the  horse's  head  pulls 
through  the  mouth  to  the  opposite  side  ;  the  one  on 
the  off  side  is  brought  through  the  mouth  to  the 
near  side ;  both  chains  are  in  the  mouth,  passing  in 
opposite  directions  from  right  to  left ;  the  crotch  and 
rings  passing  over  the  nose,  (as  described  in  my  first 
bridle,)  is  attached  to  this  chain  bit,  just  the  same  as 
to  the  snaffle  bit.  The  rings  fast  to  the  end  of  chains 
prevent  the  rings  made  fast  to  the  end  of  the  crotch 
from  slipping  over.  The  balance  of  the  bridle  is 
made  and  works  the  same  as  described  on  previous 


92 

page.  The  advantage  of  this  bit  for  a  bad  kicker 
is  this :  just  as  soon  as  he  attempts  to  raise  his  quar- 
ters, the  rings  attached  to  the  crotch  and  fast  at  each, 
end  of  the  chain  bit,  cause  the  rubbers  to  give,  bringing 
the  chains  in  opposite  directions  through  the  mouth, 
which  is  very  painful  to  the  horse,  at  the  same  time 
throwing  his  head  violently  into  the  air.  One  day's 
driving  with  that  will  subdue  the  worst  of  kickers. 

A  word  for  hitching  in  double  harness,  and  I  am 
done.  Driving  in  double  harness,  the  attachment  is 
just  as  handy,  safe  and  effectual,  as  driving  your 
horse  between  the  shafts.  To  illustrate,  say  your 
kicker  is  the  near  side  horse  of  the  team ;  your 
evener  is  bolted  fast  to  the  pole  of  your  wagon  ;  the 
whiffletree  on  the  off  side  is  made  fast  to  the  end  of 
the  evener.  On  the  near  side  of  the  pole  the  evener 
is  eighteen  inches  longer  than  off  side ;  consequently 
the  whiffletree  is  made  fast  to  the  evener  on  the  near 
side,  eighteen  inches  from  the  end.  Now  you  see 
tlie  straps  passing  through  the  ring  on  the  top  of  the 
jiorse's  quarters  can  be  made  fast  to  the  evener,  and 
have  the  same  effect  as  when  hitched  to  a  pair  of 
shafts.  The  strap  passing  over  the  left  hip  is  passed 
through  a  staple  at  the  end  of  the  long  evener,  on 
the  near  side,  and  made  fast ;  the  one  passing  over 
the  right  hip  is  passed  through  a  staple,  and  made 
fast  next  to  the  pole.  So  you  see  at  once,  the  bridle 
will  have  the  same  effect  upon  a  kicker,  when  driven 
in  double  harness,  as  when  driven  in  single,  and 
between  the  shafts. 


Now,  reader,  I  think  I  have  explained  the  making 
and  use  of  these  valuable  bridles,  so  that  no  one  need 
be  mistaken;  and  knowing,  from  long  experience, 
the  effect  they  have  upon  bad  horses,  it  is  with  con- 
fidence that  I  recommend  them  to  you. 


M 


ON    SHOEING. 


The  period  when  the  shoe  began  to  be  nailed  to 
the  horse  is  uncertain.  William,  the  Korman,  intro- 
duced it  into  England.  Far  more  than  is  imagined, 
the  comfort  and  health  of  the  horse,  with  the 
safety  of  the  rider,  depend  upon  shoeing.  In  taking 
off  the  old  shoe,  the  clinches  of  the  nails  should 
always  be  carefully  raised,  or  filed  off,  and  where  the 
foot  is  tender,  or  the  horse  is  to  be  examined  for 
lameness,  each  nail  should  be  partly  punched  out 
The  edges  of  the  crust  are  then  to  be  rasped,  to 
detect  whether  any  stubs  remain  in  the  nail  holes, 
and  to  remove  the  crust  into  which  dirt  and  gravel 
have  insinuated  themselves.  Next  comes  the  impor- 
tant process  of  paring  out,  with  regard  to  which  it  is 
impossible  to  lay  down  any  specific  rules.  It  is,  how- 
ever, undoubted,  that  far  more  injury  has  been  done 
by  the  neglect  of  paring,  than  by  carrying  it  to  too 
great  an  extent.  The  act  of  paring  is  a  work  of 
much  more  labor  than  the  proprietor  of  the  horse 
often  imagines.  The  smith,  unless  he  is  looked  to, 
will  frequently  give  himself  as  little  trouble  about  it 
as  he  can,  and  that  portion  of  horn  which,  in  the 
unshod  foot,  would  be  worn  away  by  contact  with 
the  ground,  is  suffered  to  accumulate  month  after 
month,  until  the  elasticity  of  the  sole  is  destroyed,  it 
can  no  longer  descend,  its  other  functions  are  impe- 


95 

ded,  and  foundation  is  laid  for  corn  or  contraction, 
and  navicular  disease,  inflammation.  That  portion 
of  the  horn  should  be  left  on  the  foot  which  will  de- 
fend the  internal  parts  from  being  bruised,  and  yet 
suffer  the  external  sole  to  descend.  How  is  this  to 
be  ascertained  ?  The  strong  pressure  of  the  thumb 
of  the  smith  will  be  the  best  guide — the  buttress, 
that  most  destructive  of  all  instruments,  being,  ex- 
cept on  very  particular  occasions,  banished  from 
every  respectable  forge.  The  smith  sets  to  work  with 
his  drawing  knife,  and  removes  the  growth  of  the 
horn  until  the  sole  will  yield,  although  in  the  slight- 
est possible  degree,  to  the  strong  pressure  of  his 
thumb.  The  proper  thickness  of  horn  will  then  re- 
main. The  quantity  of  horn  to  be  removed  in  order 
to  have  the  proper  degree  of  thickness,  will  vary  with 
different  feet  From  the  strong  foot  a  good  deal 
must  be  taken.  From  the  concave  foot  the  horn 
may  be  removed  until  the  sole  will  yield  to  a  mod- 
erate pressure.  From  the  flat  foot  little  need  be 
pared,  while  the  pummaced  foot  should  be  deprived 
of  nothing  but  the  ragged  parts.  The  crust  should 
be  reduced  to  a  perfect  level  all  round,  but  left  a 
little  higher  than  the  sole,  or  the  sole  will  be  bruised 
by  its  pressure  on  the  edge  of  the  seating.  The  heels 
will  require  considerable  attention.  From  the  stress 
which  is  thrown  on  the  inner  heel,  and  from  the 
weakness  of  the  quarter  there,  the  horn  usually 
wears  away  considerably  faster  than  it  would  on  the 
outer  one,  and  if  an  equal  portion  of  horns  were 
5 


96 

pared  from  it,  it  would  be  left  lower  than  the  outer 
heel.  The  smith  should,  therefore,  accommodate  his 
paring  to  the  comparative  wear  of  the  heels,  and  be 
exceedingly  careful  to  have  them  precisely  level. 
The  position  of  the  heels  between  the  inflection  of 
the  bar  and  the  frog  should  scarcely  be  touched — at 
best  the  ragged  and  detached  parts  alone  should  be 
cut  away.  The  foot  may  not  look  so  fair  and  open, 
but  will  last  longer  without  contraction.  The  bar 
likewise,  should  be  left  fully  prominent  (never  allow 
the  smith  to  cut  away  the  bar  or  frog  of  the  foot),  not 
only  at  its  first  inflection,  but  as  it  runs  down  the 
side  of  the  frog.  The  heel  of  the  shoe  is  designed 
to  rest  partly  on  the  heel  of  the  foot,  and  partly  on 
the  bar,  for  reasons  that  have  been  already  stated. 
If  the  bar  is  weak,  the  growth  .of  it  should  be  encour- 
aged, and  it  should  be  scarcely  touched  when  the 
horse  is  shod,  unless  it  has  attained  a  level  with  the 
crust.  It  has  been  argued  by  many  that  the  horn 
between  the  crust  and  the  bar  should  be  carefully 
pared  out,  and  by  so  doing  give  relief  to  the  ani- 
mal lame  with  corns.  If  a  little  spring  is  given  to 
the  heel  of  the  shoe,  it  gives  relief;  also  the  practice 
of  weakening  the  crust  of  the  foot  where  it  is  so 
much  needed. 

I  will  give  you  some  idea  of  the  young  and 
healthy  foot.  Approaching  nearly  to  a  circle,  and 
of  which  the  quarters  form  the  widest  part,  being 
just  as  wide  as  it  is  long.  But  I  am  sorry  to  say 
that  this  shape  is  not  long  preserved  in  many  horses ; 


97 

but  the  foot  increases,  and  narrows  in  the  quarters, 
and  more  particularly  at  the  heel,  and  the  frog  is 
diminished  in  width,  the  sole  becomes  more  concave, 
and  the  heels  higher,  and  then  lameness,  or  at  least  a 
shortened  and  feeble  action,  ensues. 

It  must  be  premised  that  there  is  a  great  deal  more 
horror  of  contracted  heels  than  there  is  occasion  for. 
Many  persons  reject  a  horse  at  once  if  the  quarters 
are  wiring  in,  but  the  fact  is,  that  although  this  is  an 
unnatural  form  of  the  hoof,  it  is  slow  of  growth,  and 
nature  kindl}^  makes  that  provision  for  the  slowly 
altered  form  of  the  hoof  which  she  does  in  similar 
cases — accommodates  the  part  to  the  change  in  form. 
As  the  hoof  draws  in,  the  parts  beneath,  and  partic- 
ularly the  coffin-bone,  especially  the  heels  of  that 
bone,  diminish ;  or,  after  all,  it  is  more  a  change  of 
form  than  of  capacity.  As  the  foot  lengthens  in 
proportion  as  it  narrows,  so  does  the  coffin-bone,  and 
it  is  as  perfectly  adjusted  as  it  was  before  to  the  box 
in  which  it  is  placed.  Its  laminae  are  in  as  intimate 
and  perfect  union  with  those  of  the  crust  as  before 
the  hoof  had  begun  to  change.  On  this  account  it 
is  that  many  horses  with  very  contracted  feet  are 
perfectly  sound,  and  no  horse  should  be  rejected 
merely  because  he  has  contraction.  He  should  un- 
doubtedly be  examined  more  carefully,  and  with 
considerable  suspicion  ;  but  if  he  has  good  action ^ 
and  is  otherwise  unexceptionable,  there  is  no  reason 
that  the  purchase  should  not  be  made.     A  horse  with 


98 

contracted  feet,  if  he  goes  soundj  is  better  than  an- 
other with  open  but  weak  heels. 

There  is  nothing  in  the  appearance  of  the  feet 
which  would  enable  us  to  decide  when  contraction 
is  or  is  not  destructive  to  the  usefuhiess.  His  man- 
ner of  going,  and  his  capacity  for  work,  must  be 
our  guides.  Lameness  usually  accompanies  the  be- 
ginning of  contraction.  It  is  the  invariable  attend- 
ant of  rapid  contraction,  but  it  does  not  always  exist 
when  the  wiring  in  is  slow,  or  of  long  standing. 
Experience  has  taught  me  to  believe  that  contraction 
in  the  majority  of  cases,  is  in  consequence  of  bad 
shoeing.  The  young  and  healthy  foot,  before  shoe- 
ing, approaching  nearly  to  a  circle,  and  of  v/hich  the 
quarters  form  the  widest  part,  and  the  inner  quarter 
rather  wider  than  the  outer.  But  I  am  sorry  to  say 
this  shape  is  not  long  preserved  in  many  horses,  and 
why  ?  In  the  first  place,  the  majority  of  smiths  forge 
the  shoe  in  a  way  calculated  to  contract  the  foot  at 
everj^  step.  The  shoe  is  turned  with  each  side  almost 
straight,  upper  side  concave,  with  heels  projecting 
outward,  causing  the  crust  of  the  heel  to  turn  under, 
and  contraction  follows.  The  shoe  should  be  turned 
as  round  as  the  foot  will  admit  of,  leaving  the  upper 
side  perfectly  level  forward  of  the  quarters  ;  from 
the  nail  holes  back  to  the  heel,  on  each  side,  leave 
the  outside  the  lowest,  so  if  you  should  place  a  rule 
across  the  heel  on  the  upper  side  of  the  shoe,  it 
would  rest  upon  the  inside  corner,  but  would  not 
touch  the  outer  by  one  eighth  of  an  inch.     Your 


99 

shoe  sliould  be  wide  web.  Do  not  let  tlie  heels 
project  outward,  but  bring  them  round  with  the  foot. 
But  if  by  so  doing,  the  inside  corner  of  the  heel 
should  rest  agaftist  the  frog,  by  use  of  a  cold  chisel, 
the  inside  corner  of  the  heel  can  be  removed,  and  all 
will  be  clear.  No  doubt  you  see  the  advantages  of 
haying  a  horse  with  contracted  feet  shod  as  above 
described.  A  shoe  of  that  pattern  will  have  a  ten- 
dency to  expand  the  quarters  at  every  step. 


Clips. 

These  are  portions  of  the  upper  edge  of  the  shoe, 
hammered  out,  and  turned  up  so  as  to  embrace  the 
lower  part  of  the  crust,  which  is  usually  pared  out  a 
little  in  order  to  receive  the  clip.  Thej^  are  very 
useful,  as  more  securely  attaching  the  shoe  to  the 
foot,  and  relieving  the  crust  from  that  stress  upon 
the  nails  which  would  otherwise  be  injurious.  A 
clip  at  the  toe  is  almost  necessary  in  every  case,  and 
absolutely  so  in  the  horse  of  heavy  draught,  in  order 
to  prevent  the  shoe  being  loosened  by  the 'pressure 
being  thrown  upon  it  in  the  act  of  drawing. 


Xlie  Hind  Sltoe. 

In  forming  the  hind  shoes,  it  should  be  remem- 
bered that  the  hind  limbs  are  the  principal  instru- 
ments in  progression,  and  that  in  every  act  of  pro- 
gression, except  the  walk,  the  toe  is  the  point  on 
which  the  whole  frame  of  the  animal  turns,  and  from 
which  it  is  propelled.     This  part,  then,  should  be 


100 

strengthened  as  much  as  possible,  and  therefore  the 
hinder  shoes  should  be  clipped  at  each  side  as  well 
as  at  the  toe. 


Xo  Prevent  Over-reacliing-,  or  Klicking^. 

Shoe  your  horse  heavy  forward — two  pound  shoe 
— making  the  heel  of  the  shoe  twice  the  thickness 
of  the  toe.  The  hind  shoe  made  short,  narrow  web, 
and  very  light,  with  toe  twice  the  thickness  of  the 
heel.  Placing  the  heavy  shoes  to  the  forward  feet 
will  cause  him  to  lift  his  feet  with  more  energy ;  also 
the  heel  of  his  forward  feet,  and  the  toe  of  his  hind 
feet,  will  so  reverse  the  action  that  in  the  majority 
of  cases  they  will  travel  clear. 


Interfering:  \%^itli  tlie  Mind  Feet. 

I  think  I  can  safely  say  that  more  than  half  of 
the  horses  now  in  use  are  animals  that  cut  their 
ankles,  and  it  is  a  great  objection.  A  horse  of  that 
kind  is  rejected  by  many  dealers,  but  I  argue  that 
if  they  are  properly  shod,  the  cause  can  be  removed. 
The  habit  that  smiths  in  general  have  of  leaving  the 
inside  of  the  toe  twice  the  thickness  of  the  outer  side, 
is  all  wrong.  The  shoe  should  be  narrow  web,  and 
very  light,  each  side  of  the  same  thickness.  The  toe 
calk  should  be  welded  to  the  toe  one  half  inch  inside 
of  the  centre,  leaving  the  inside  of  said  calk  the 
highest.  Heel  calks  the  same  height.  By  so  doing, 
the  outside  of  the  shoe  is  one  inch  longer  than  the 
inside.     It  is  now  necessary  to  pare  the  outside  of 


101 

tlie  foot  the  lowest  Your  shoe  is  now  made  fast  to 
the  foot  with  five  nails,  three  on  the  outside  ^d  two 
on  the  inner ;  also  three  clips,  one  at  the  toe,  and 
one  at  each  side. 


Interfering;  TFith  Forward.  Feet. 

I  have  known  valuable  horses,  and  fast  trotting 
horses,  to  cut  their  ankles  inside  of  the  leg,  and  quite 
often  the  knee — and  badl  j,  too — with  the  shoe  of  the 
opposite  foot,  and  I  think  the  plan  I  adopt  a  good 
one.  The  outer  web  of  the  shoe  should  be  narrow 
and  light,  the  inner  wide  and  heavy,  with  the  outside 
of  the  hoof  pared  the  lowest  When  all  other  plans 
have  failed,  this  has  proved  effectual. 


Tlie  Bar  Slioe. 

The  bar  shoe  is  often  exceedingly  .useful.  It  is 
the  continuation  of  the  common  shoe  around  the 
heels,  and  by  means  of  it  the  pressure  may  be  taken 
off  from  some  tender  part  of  the  foot,  and  thrown  on 
another,  which  is  better  able  to  bear  it ;  or  more 
widely  and  deeply  diffused  over  the  whole  foot  It 
is  resorted  to  in  cases  of  corns,  pummiced  feet,  sand 
crack,  cracked  quarter,  &c.  In  such  cases  the  bar 
shoe  can  be  used  to  advantage,  but  it  should-  be  left 
off  as  soon  as  it  can  be  dispensed  with. 


<|narter    Crack. 

Much  has  been  said,  and  various  plans  devised,  by 
which  to  heal  a  quarter  crack,  such  as  scoring  with  a 


102 

knife,  blistering,  cutting  with  a  sharp,  hot  iron,  riv 
eting,  ^^nd  the  like.  All  which,  in  some  cases,  have 
proved  a  failure.  Now,  let  me  say,  if  jou  will  fol- 
low my  directions,  you  may  have  a  sound  foot  in 
three  months.  Above  the  crack,  and  next  to  the 
hair,  cut  with  your  knife  an  incision  one-half  inch 
long,  crosswise  of  the  crack,  and  one-eighth  or  one- 
sixteenth  inch  deep.  Now,  from  the  incision,  draw 
a  line  one-quarter  inch  each  side,  parallel  with  the 
crack,  down  to  the  shoe.  "With  your  knife  follow 
those  lines,  and  cut  through  the  enamel  or  crust  of 
the  foot.  You  see,  now,  there  is  a  piece  of  the  crust 
to  be  taken  out.  This  is  done  by  loosening  the  top 
of  the  piece  next  to  the  hair  with  your  knife.  Then, 
with  your  forceps,  take  hold  of  the  piece  and  pull  it 
off.  That  leaves  a  space  of  one-half  inch  of  the 
crust  taken  out  from  the  hair  down  to  the  shoe.  Fill 
the  cavity  with  tar,  and  lace  on  a  soft  piece  of  leather 
to  keep  the  tar  in  its  place.  Keep  him  quiet  for 
three  or  four  days,  and  he  is  ready  to  drive.  Shoe 
with  a  bar  shoe,  leaving  some  spring  to  the  heel,  so 
it  will  not  bear  hard  upon  the  weak  quarter,  and  in 
three  months  you  will  have  a  sound  foot.     Try  it. 


103 


TEACHING   TRICKS. 


As  many  of  my  scliolars  may  wish  to  know  how 
to  teach  their  horses  tricks,  I  will  explain  how  it 
may  be  done.  Teaching  a  young  horse  a  few  tricks 
greatly  serves  to  keep  up  an  interest  in  him,  and 
makes  him  appear  intelligent,  fearless,  and  affection- 
ate. In  teaching  your  horse  to  perform  tricks,  it  is 
best  to  give  him  lessons  of  half,  or  three-quarters  of 
an  hour  each,  daily. 


To  Come  at  tlie  Crack  €>£  the  'Whip,  or  at  the 
l¥ord  of*  Cononajad. 

As  for  halter  breaking,  catching  in  pasture,  and 
the  like. 


To  make  a  JBoir. 

Take  a  pin  in  your  right  hand,  between  the  thumb 
and  forefinger,  and  stand  before,  but  a  little  to  the 
left  of  your  horse.  Then  prick  him  on  the  breast 
very  lightly,  as  if  a  fly  biting,  which,  to  relieve,  he 
will  bring  down  his  head,  which  you  will  accept  as 
yes,  and  for  which  you  will  reward  him  by  caressing, 
and  feeding  him  a  little  apple,  a  few  kernels  of  corn, 
or  oats.  Then  repeat,  and  so  continue  until  he 
brings  down  the  head  the  moment  he  sees  the  least 
motion  of  your  hand  towards  his  breast ;  or  substi- 
tute some  signal  which  he  will  understand  readily. 
*5 


104 

To  Say  No. 

Stand  by  your  horse  near  the  shoulder,  holding 
the  same  pin  in  your  hand,  with  which  prick  him 
lightly  on  the  withers,  and  to  relieve  himself  he  will 
shake  his  head.  You  then  caress  him  as  before,  and 
so  repeating,  until  he  will  shake  his  head  at  the  least 
indication  of  your  touching  him  with  the  pin.  You 
can  train  your  horse  so  nicely  in  this  way,  in  a  short 
time,  as  to  cause  him  to  shake  his  head,  or  bow,  by 
merely  turning  the  hand  a  little,  or  moving  it  slightly 
towards  him. 


To    IJLe  I>oM^ii. 

To  teach  a  horse  how  to  do  this  trick  quickly, 
you  must  lay  him  down  two  or  three  times,  or  as 
often  as  yon  will  find  it  necessary  to  make  him  un- 
derstand your  object.  If  an  old  horse,  strap  the  near 
foreleg  up  to  the  arm,  then  take  your  little  strap, 
previously  used  to  tamper  your  colt  with,  and  place 
over  the  back  and  strap  around  the  off  fore  foot,  be- 
low the  fetlock.  Then  take  the  bridle  rein  firmly 
in  your  left  hand,  about  eighteen  inches  from  the 
head,  and  pall  upon  it  a  little  towards  you.  The 
moment  he  steps,  pull  upon  the  strap  over  the  body, 
which  will  bring  the  horse  to  his  knees.  II old  him 
quietly,  at  the  same  time  talking  to  him  gently. 
When  he  springs,  pull  sharply  with  the  left  hand, 
and  the  same  instant  pull  down  with  the  right, 
which  will  swing  him  around  you,  and  prevent  his 
rising  high  enough  to  injure  his  knees  by  the  mo- 


105 

mentum  of  the  body  coming  down.  By  being  gen- 
tle, the  horse  will  usually  lie  down  in  a  short  time. 
When  down,  treat  your  horse  with  the  greatest  at- 
tention and  kindness.  After  holding  him  down,  ten 
or  fifteen  minutes,  permit  him  to  get  up.  Eepeat 
this  lesson  until  he  will  come  down  readity.  Then 
use  only  the  strap  over  the  back,  which  have  on  the 
near  foot,  and  bring  him  on  his  knees  gently,  when 
he  will  soon  lie  down.  When  he  will  come  on  his 
knees  readily  by  taking  up  the  foot  in  this  way,  take 
up  the  foot  with  the  hand,  asking  to  lie  down.  He 
will  soon  come  down.  When  he  will  come  down  on 
his  knees  readily  by  taking  up  the  foot  with  the 
hand,  simply  stoop  as  if  intending  to  take  it  up, 
saying,  "  lie  down,  sii*."  Then  make  him  come 
down  by  a  motion  of  the  hand,  and  finally  by  telling 
him  to  lie  down.  If  a  colt,  use  but  the  single  strap 
over  the  body  at  first,  which  will  cause  him  to  come 
on  his  knees.  In  teaching  a  horse  to  lie  down,  be 
gentle,  caress  and  reward  him  for  lying  down,  and 
your  horse  comprehending  what  you  want,  and  find- 
ing himself  paid  for  compliance,  will  soon  be  as 
anxious  to  get  down  for  the  reward,  as  you  are  to 
have  him. 


To  Sit  Up. 

When  your  horse  will  lie  down  readily,  you  can 
then  easily  teach  him  to  sit  up  like  a  dog.  If  young, 
and  not  very  heavy  and  strong,  you  can  easily  pre- 
vent his   getting  up,  without   tying  down.     First, 


106 

cause  him  to  lie  down,  having  on  him  a  common 
bridle,  with  the  reins  over  the  neck ;  then  step  be- 
hind him,  and  place  the  right  foot  firmly  upon  the 
tail,  the  reins  in  your  hands.  Then  say,  "  get  up, 
sir."  The  horse,  rising  from  a  recumbent  position, 
first  upon  his  belly,  throws  out  his  forward  feet,  and 
raises  himself  upon  them,  springs  forward,  and  raises 
on  his  hind  feet.  Now,  standing  upon  his  tail  firmly 
and  pulling  back  upon  the  reins  when  he  attempts  to 
spring  forward  and  up,  will  prevent  his  doing  so,  and 
you  hold  him  sitting  up.  Hold  him  firmly  a  few 
seconds,  talking  to  him  kindly,  before  permitting 
him  to  rise  on  his  feet.  Repeat  a  few  times,  when, 
instead  of  springing  up,  he  will  sit  on  his  haunches 
a  short  time,  which  you  are  to  accept  as  complying 
with  your  wishes.  Always  say,  "  sit  up,  sir,"  every 
time,  and  hold  him  in  the  position  as  long  as  he  will 
bear,  fondling  him,  and  feeding  him  from  the  hand 
with  something  he  likes,  and  your  horse  will  learn  to 
sit  up  for  you  as  long  as  you  please. 

But  if  your  horse  is  heavy,  and  strong,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  resort  to  other  means  to  hold  him  down 
at  first.  This  you  do  by  putting  on  his  neck  a  com- 
mon collar,  and  causing  him  to  lie  down.  Then 
fasten  a  piece  of  rope,  or  a  rein,  to  each  hind  foot, 
and  bring  forward  through  the  collar,  and  draw  up 
close,  which  will  bring  the  hind  feet  well  forward. 
Then  step  behind,  as  before,  and  when  he  attempts 
to  rise  on  his  hind  feet,  he  finds  it  impossible  to  do 
so,  because  you  hold  them  firmly  with  those  straps. 


107 

Repeat  two  or  three  times,  when  it  will  not  be  neces- 
sary to  resort  to  such  force. 


Xo  Xeacli  sl  WLovse  to  Kiss  ITon. 
Teach  him  first  to  take  an  apple  out  of  your  hand. 
Then  gradually  raise  the  hand  nearer  the  mouth,  at 
each  repetition,  until  you  require  him  to  take  it  from 
your  mouth,  holding  it  with  the  hand,  telling  him 
at  the  same  time  to  kiss  you.  He  will  soon  learn  to 
reach  up  his  nose  to  your  mouth,  first  to  get  his 
apple,  but  finally  because  commanded  to  do  so. 
Simply  repeat  until  your  horse  understands  the  trick 
thoroughly. 


Xo  Sltalce  Hands. 

Tie  a  short  strap,  or  piece  of  cord,  to  the  forward 
foot,  below  the  fetlock.  Stand  difectly  before  the 
horse,  holding  the  end  of  this  strap  or  cord  in  your 
hand,  then  say,  "shake  hands,  sir,"  and,  immediately 
after  commanding  him  to  do  so,  pull  upon  the  strap, 
which  will  bring  his  foot  forward,  and  which  you  are 
to  accept  as  shaking  hands,  thanking  him  for  it  by 
caressing  and  feeding.  And  so  repeat,  until  when 
you  make  the  demand,  he  will  bring  the  foot  forward 
in  anticipation  of  having  it  pulled  up.  This  is  a 
very  easy  trick  to  teach  a  horse.  By  a  little  practice, 
a  horse  may  be  easily  trained  to  approach,  make  a 
bow,  shake  hands,  and  follow  like  a  dog,  lie  down, 
sit  up,  md  the  like,  which  make  him  appear  both 
polite  and  intelligent. 


1 

108 

IS'ever  lose  coTirage,  or  confidence  in  joiir  ability 
because  3^ou  may  not  bring  about  good  results  easily. 
To  accomplisli  anything  of  importance,  remember, 
requires  no  ordinar}^  resolution  and  perseverance. 
There  would  be  no  credit  or  importance  attached  to 
mastering  and  managing  bad  horses,  if  not  difficult, 
and  apparently  dangerous.  No  duty  requires  more 
firmness  of  purpose  in  the  control  of  the  passions,  or 
more  fidelity  to  the  principles  of  firmness  and  truth, 
than  that  of  horsemanship. 

If  you  would  really  be  a  successful  horseman,  you 
must  never  seem  to  forget,  by  your  conduct,  that  you 
are  a  man,  and  that  your  real  superiority  over  the 
animal  consists  in  the  prudent  exercise  of  your  rea- 
soning powers.  Brute  force  is  not  your  forte,  and 
the  instant  that  you  give  way  to  passion,  your  reason 
must  yield  to  the  control  of  blind  instinct,  and  you 
at  once  abdicate  your  intellectual  superiority  over 
the  animal.  Try  to  prove,  by  the  example  of  your 
action  in  the  performance  of  the  duty,  that  to  be  a 
good  horseman  requires  higher  qualifications  of 
fitness  than  that  of  the  huckstering  dishonesty  and 
depravity,  so  generally  evinced  in  the  conduct  of 
those  claiming  the  distinction. 

Ho^v  to  tell  a  Morse's  Ag^e. 

At  two  years  old,  colt  sheds  two  centre  nippers. 
At  three  years  old,  colt  sheds  the  adjoining  teeth. 
At  four  years  old,  colt  sheds  outer  or  corner  teetL 


109  ^ 

At  five  years  old.  bridle  tootli  is  up,  and  six  years-, 
cups  leave  two  centre  teetli  below. 

At  seven  years  old,  cups  leave  adjoining  teeth. 

At  eight  years  old,  cups  leave  outer  or  corner  teeth. 

At  nine  years  old,  cups  leave  the  two  centre  nip- 
pers above. 

At  ten  years  old,  cups  leave  adjoining  teeth. 

At  eleven  years  old,  cups  leave  corner  upper  teeth. 

At  twelve  years  old,  or  past,  groove  on  inside  of 
bridle  tooth  disappears  in  horses.  Mares  very  seldom 
have  them,  and  when  they  do,  they  are  no  criterion 
to  be  guided  by. 


Jockey  Tricks. 

How  to  make  a  horse  appear  as  though  he  was  hadly 

foundered. — Take  a  fine  wire  and  fasten  tight  around 

ankle,  between  foot  and  pastern,  and  smooth  hair 

over  it.     In  twenty  minutes,  horse  will  show  lame. 

Do  not  leave  it  on  over  nine  hours. 

To  make  horse  lame. — Take  a  single  hair  from  the 
tail,  put  through  the  eye  of  a  needle,  lift  front  fore 
leg,  and  press  the  skin  between  outer  and  middle 
tendon  or  cord,  shove  the  needle  through,  cut  the 
hair  off  on  each  side,  and  let  the  foot  down ;  horse 
will  go  lame  in  twenty  minutes. 

How  to  make  a  horse  stand  hy  his  food^  and  not  take  it. 
— Grrease  the  front  teeth,  and  the  roof  of  the  mouth, 
with  common  beef  tallow,  and  he  will  not  eat  till  you 


110 

wasTi  it  out.  This,  in  connection  with  the  abov0j 
will  consummate  a  perfect  founder. 

How  to  stop  a  horse  of  the  crib,  or  sucking  wind. — 
Saw  between  the  upper  teeth  to  the  gums. 

How  to  put  a  young  countenance  on  a  horse. —  Make 
a  small  incision  in  the  sunk  place  over  the  eye,  in- 
sert the  point  of  a  goose  quill,  and  blow  it  up  ;  close 
the  external  wound  with  thread,  and  it  is  done. 

To  cover  up  the  heaves.  —  Drench  the  horse  with 
one-fourth  pound  of  bird  shot,  and  he  will  not  heave 
until  they  pass  through. 

To  make  a  horse  appear  as  if  he  had  the  glanders. — 
Melt  four  ounces  fresh  butter,  and  pour  it  into  his 
ear. 

To  distinguish  between  distemper  and  glanders. —  The 
discharge  from  the  nose  in  distemper  will  float  in 
water  ;  in  glanders  it  sinks. 

How  to  make  a  true  pulling  horse  balk. —  Take  tinc- 
ture cantharides  one  ounce,  and  corrosive  sublimate 
one  drachm  ;  mix  and  bathe  his  shoulders  at  night. 

-  How  to  nerve  a  horse  that  is  lame. —  Make  a  small 
incision  about  half  way  from  the  knee  to  the  joint 
on  the  outside  of  the  leg,  and  at  the  back  part  of  the 
shin  bone ;  you  will  find  a  small  white  tendon  or 
cord ;  cut  it  olf,  close  the  external  wound  with  a 
stitch,  and  he  will  walk  off  on  the  hardest  pavement, 
and  not  limp  a  particle. 


Ill 


TRAINING    STEERS. 

AS   TAUGHT   BY   A.    H.    ROCkWELL. 


Ho-vr  to  Teacli  Steers  to  Obey  tlie  Ti^liip, 

First  get  jour  steer  into  a  room,  or  small  yard, 
so  that  he  cannot  run  from  you ;  then  approach  him 
gently  and  slowly,  and  if  he  runs,  do  not  be  in  a 
huny  ;  wait  until  he  gets  to  the  end  of  the  enclosure, 
then  approach  him  slowly,  as  before.  A  steer  will 
often  run  from  you  in  this  way  six  or  eight  times. 
Do  not  try  to  stop  him  with  your  whip,  or  force  him 
to  think  he  will  be  at  all  injured,  until  he  will  stand 
and  suffer  you  to  approach  him.  As  soon  as  this  is 
accomplished,  gently  tie  a  rope  around  his  body,  near 
the  shoulders,  rather  loosely.  Then  take  another 
rope  or  strap,  and  gently  fasten  one  end  to  the  near 
forward  foot,  then  pass  the  other  end  over  the  rope, 
or  surcingle  beneath  the  body.  This  rope  should  be 
sufficiently  long  to  allow  him  to  run  to  the  end  of 
the  enclosure  without  your  moving,  at  the  same  time 
you  holding  the  rope  firm  to  compel  him  to  move  on 
three  legs.  Then  approach  him  again,  quietly ;  he 
will  not  run  off  in  this  way  but  a  few  times  before 
he  fully  comprehends  that  he  will  not  be  injured, 
when  he  will  suffer  you  to  approach  and  handle  him 
just  as  you  please.  Now  take  a  short  hold  of  the 
strap  with  your  left  hand,  your  whip  in  your  right, 


112 

whicli  pass  over  his  shoulders,  and  qnietly  touch 
him  upon  the  off  side  of  his  head,  at  the  same  time 
sajdng  ''haw,"  and  continue  this  until  he  moves  his 
head  a  little  towards  you.  Then  stop  and  caress  him 
upon  and  about  his  neck  and  head.  Repeat  this  until 
he  haws  around  towards  you.  If  he  attempts  to  run 
from  you,  pull  upon  the  strap,  saying  "  whoa,"  and 
at  the  same  time  hitting  him  lightly  upon  the  head 
with  the  whip.  As  soon  as  he  learns  in  this  way  to 
stop  at  the  word  of  command,  and  comes  toward 
you  readily,  take  off  the  strap  and  surcingle,  and 
turn  him  out.  Then  take  the  mate,  and  give 
him  the  same  course  of  training  until  you  can  ac- 
complish with  him  a  like  result.  Then  turn  him  out. 
By  this  time  the  first  steer  is  cool,  and  rested,  ready 
to  receive  another  lesson.  Now  drive  him  into  the 
enclosure  and  repeat  his  lessons  with  the  whip. 
Then  quietly  touch  him  gentl}^  upon  the  near  side 
of  the  head,  at  the  same  time  saying,  "  gee,"  until  he 
will  step  around  from  you,  then  caress,  and  repeat 
until  he  will  gee  or  haw  readily.  Then  repeat  the 
same  lesson  with  his  mate,  which  is  all  that  is  neces- 
sary to  be  done  the  first  half  da}^.  Then  take  both 
together  in  the  same  room,  or  yard,  and  repeat  these 
lessons  until  they  have  a  through  understanding  of 
what  you  have  done.  Then  take  one  of  them  near 
the  wall,  standing  b}^  his  side,  hit  with  your  whip 
gently  over  the  head,  at  the  same  time  saying,  "back," 
until  he  will  step  back,  for  which  caress.  Repeat 
this  until  he  will  go  back  at  the  word  readily.     Then 


113 

give  the  other  steer  the  same  lesson.  You  will  find 
this  course  of  training  will  make  your  steers  quite 
obedient,  and  willing  to  haw,  gee,  or  back,  which  will 
be  all  that  you  should  require  in  one  day's  time. 
The  next  morning,  or  when  you  have  time,  repeat 
this  lesson  with  both  together.  Then  place  the  yoke 
upon  them  and  let  them  go  for  an  hour  or  two,  or 
sufficiently  long  to  become  fully  reconciled  to  the 
restraint  of  the  yoke.  Then  repeat  yoar  lesson  in 
open  yard,  until  they  fully  understand  what  you  re- 
quire of  them  yoked  together. 

This  course  of  training  does  not  excite,  while  it 
conveys  the  idea  most  clearly  of  what  is  required, 
and  will  enable  the  trainer  to  accomplish  more  in  a 
given  time,  than  has  yet  been  done  by  any  other 
system  of  managing  steers.  If  your  steers  have 
learned  to  run  away  from  you,  which  is  a  common 
result  of  tne  ordinary  method  of  training,  put  on 
the  rope  and  strap,  to  the  foot.  If  hitched  to  a 
wagon,  or  stone  load,  let  yoar  man  hold  the  foot 
strap,  which  run  back  between  the  steers,  and  the 
moment  they  attempt  to  run,  he  pulls  up  the  feefc, 
while  you  whip  over  the  head,  which  will  stop  them 
immediately,  and  will  very  soon  break  up  the  habit 


114 


TRAINING   DOGS. 


The  dog  is  the  most  domesticated,  and  (next  to 
the  horse)  the  most  intelligent  of  all  animals.  He  is 
easily  taiagbt,  and,  if  pioperlj  treated,  is  a  faithful 
and  willing  servant  of  m.an  ;  if  misused,  and  ill- 
treated,  he  is  very  apt  to  become  disagreeable,  and  a 
nuisance.  The  dog  being  a  favorite  of  mankind,  it 
becomes  a  duty  to  educate  him  in  such  a  manner 
that  he  will  not  only  reflect  credit,  but  become  useful 
to  his  master,  besides  being  an  agreeable  inmate  to 
all  members  of  the  household.  I  have  given  par- 
ticular attention  to  this  subject,  it  being  one  which 
cannot  fail  to  interest  all  readers.  I  have  at  present 
twoof  the  best  trained  dogs  in  the  country — Minnie, 
an  Italian  greyhound,  and  Tasso,  a  black  and  tan. 
They  are  made  to  understand  any  words  of  the  En- 
glish language,  simply  by  teaching  them  the  act,  and 
then  the  word  from  the  act.  The  rules  whereby  any 
person  can  educate  a  dog,  are  simple,  and  easily  un- 
derstood, but  it  is  necessary  to  be  patient,  kind  and 
persevering  (the  same  as  in  all  things.)  I  give  a  few 
rules  suf&cient  to  enable  the  operator  to  practice 
many  more.  There  are  different  breeds  of  dogs,  and, 
or  course,  as  many  different  habits  and  dispositions 
as  breeds  ;  consequently  it  will  require  judgment  to 
train  them  to  that  to  which  they  are  best  adapted  by 


115 

nature.  For  instance,  the  St.  Bernard  is  a  faithful 
watch  dog,  while  the  setter  will  scent  game  without 
training  ;  a  terrier  will  catch  rats,  and  the  gre3^hound 
takes  to  running  from  his  birth.  It  is  necessary, 
therefore,  in  attempting  to  teach  the  dog,  to  bear  in 
mind  these  natural  habits,  being  careful  not  to  urge 
upon  him  the  performance  of  any  duties  or  tricks, 
which  are  manifestly  not  in  his  nature  to  do.  When 
selecting  dogs  for  any  particular  lesson,  study  this 
subject  closel}^,  as  undoubtedly  it  is  the  most  useful 
lesson  to  be  taught.  In  educating  the  shepherd  to 
drive,  or  the  watch  dog,  I  have  not  given  so  much 
attention.  'Not  being  so  fond  of  this  kind  as  the 
more  intelligent  class  of  dogs,  learning  them  certain 
tricks,  &c.,  but  I  will  give  you  the  knowledge  of  the 
above,  as  I  obtained  it  from  a  celebrated  dog  trainer. 

Xraining-   the    Slseplterd    to   I>rive. 

Take  a  well-bred  shepherd  dog,  about  six  months 
old,  reared  in  some  secluded  place,  hearing  no  words 
with  a  meaning  intended  to  be  attached,  except  his 
name.  He  should  know  nothing  of  the  ordinary 
words  in  use  towards  clogs,  and  not  have  been 
handled  by  boys  or  careless  persons.  Take  him 
alone  with  you  in  a  large  room.  The  first  thing  to 
be  done  is  to  learn  him  to  lead,  placing  a  strap 
around  his  neck,  that  cannot  hurt  him,  to  which  at- 
tach a  cord  six  or  eight  feet  in  length ;  stand  still 
and  hold  up  on  the  cord  for  a  few  minutes,  until  he 
ceases  struggling  to  get  away.    It  is  best  to  give  one 


116 

lesson  each  day  during  the  whole  training.  The  first 
two  lessons  should  be  devoted  to  learning  him  that 
he  cannot  get  away.  Now,  commence  learning  him 
to  come  to  you,  by  pulling  upon  the  rope,  and  say- 
ing, "Here,"  using  only  the  one  word.  In  the  use 
of  this,  as  well  as  all  other  words  used  in  training 
the  dog,  one  word  is  all  that  is  best  to  try  and  learn 
him  for  any  one  act,  it  being  so  difficult  to  make  him 
understand,  if  you  attempt  to  learn  him  more. 
When  he  is  once  fixed  in  the  habit  of  minding  the 
word,  you  may  then  use  such  other  words  in  connec- 
tion therewith,  as  are  pleasant  to  the  ear,  as,  for 
instance,  "come  here,  sir.''  Without  the  word /j ere 
he  will  not  know  what  you  mean,  and  the  others 
being  meaningless  to  him,  do  not  puzzle  him.  He 
will  also  be  less  liable  to  have  too  many  masters,  as 
the  07ie  word  will  not  be  likely  to  be  used  every  time 
by  a  person  unacquainted  with  your  mode  of  train- 
ing. Of  course,  if  you  prefer  it,  you  may,  in  giving 
the  lesson,  substitute  other  words  for  those  laid  down ; 
but  I  give  those  which  are  readiest  to  the  tongue. 
As  the  dog  comes  up,  whether  voluntarily  or  not, 
say  "  Do,"  and  caress  him.  A  lesson  of  an  hour  or 
two,  working  slowly  and  patiently,  will  be  about 
right,  each  time.  Proceed  with  it  antil  he  will  come 
to  you  from  any  portion  of  the  room,  at  the  word 
"  Here."  He  will  have  learned  by  this  time,  proba- 
bly, that  the  word  "  Do  "  is  for  him  to  understand 
that  you  are  through  with  him.  When  he  perfectly 
realizes  this,  you  may  then  prefix  words,  and  say 


117 

"  That  will  do,"  emphasizing  upon  the  word  do  each 
time.  You  may  also  now  say,  "  Come  here,"  remem- 
bering that  the  words  here  and  do  are  the  only  ones 
he  obeys.  He  cannot  connect  sentences,  or  be  made 
to  understand  them  when  once  connected.  You  now 
wish  to  learn  him  the  words  "Go,"  and  "  Halt."  To 
do  this  you  will  place  yourself  in  a  portion  of  the 
room  opposite  to  where  the  dog  would  naturally  de- 
sire to  go  (the  door,  for  instance,  or  something  that 
would  attract  him,  such  as  food,)  say,  "  Go,"  and  by 
coaxing  and  urging  him,  start  him  along  ;  as  he  gets 
part  of  the  way,  say,  "  Halt,"  pull  ujDon  the  string, 
stopping  him,  and  say,  "  Halt,"  again.  Proceed  with 
this  until  he  has  learned  to  obey  both  the  words, 
"Go"  and  "Halt."  To  teach  these  four  words 
named,  will  generally  take  three  or  four  weeks. 

Now  learn  him  to  bark  at  the  word  "  Speak,"  by 
holding  up  something  which  he  wants  very  much, 
for  instance,  food  when  he  is  very  hungry.  You 
may  now  let  him  loose,  and  let  him  run  about  with 
you,  (  previously  keeping  him  confined,  but  not  in  a 
narrow  place,)  being  watchful  that  he  does  not  stray 
off,  nor  be  hurt,  or  handled  by  others.  He  will  soon 
become  handy  about  the  house.  You  having  control 
of  him  through  the  words  you  have  taught  him,  can 
keep  him  in  his  place  by  word  of  command.  For 
instance,  if  you  wish  him  to  go  out  of  doors,  show 
him  the  door,  and  say,  "  Go  out."  The  word  "  go  " 
will  start  him,  and  in  a  little  while  he  will  be- 
come familiar  with  the  word  "  out."     Give  him  a 


118 

fixed  place  to  sleep,  and  learn  him  its  name.  If  you 
have  a  dog  already  trained  to  drive,  and  go  behind, 
take  him  out  with  him  to  drive  in  the  cattle.  He 
will  learn  that  they  will  run  from  him.  Say  nothing 
to  him  while  he  is  with  the  other  dog,  unless  he  at- 
tempts to  go  to  the  head  of  any  of  the  cattle.  This 
you  must  not  allow.  After  two  or  three  times,  take 
him  out  without  the  other  dog,  and  allow  him  to  run 
after  the  cattle,  provided  the  cattle  are  used  to  being 
driven  by  dogs.  It  will  not  do  to  let  him  run  where 
there  is  a  chance  of  his  being  turned  upon.  If  he 
runs  them  too  fast,  say,  "  Steady."  He  will  not 
know  what  you  mean,  but,  as  you  use  words  with 
him  only  when  they  mean  something,  he  will  be  apt 
to  pay  attention,  and  go  slower.  If  he  does  not, 
say,  "  Halt,"  then  "  Gro,"  steadying  him  by  the  word 
"  Steady,"  if  possible.  He  will  gradually  learn  its 
meaning  by  its  repetition.  If  you  have  no  other 
dog,  you  will  let  him  go  without  being  more  watch- 
ful of  him,  that  he  does  not  go  to  the  head  of  the 
cattle ;  otherwise  say  nothing  to  him,  except  "  Go," 
not  letting  him  start  until  he  gets  the  word.  After 
a  while  you  may  proceed  to  practice  upon  the  other 
words  he  knows.  If  he  shows  no  disposition  to 
bite  at  the  heels,  or  pull  at  the  tail,  take  a  rope,  and 
tie  a  knot  a  short  distance  up,  finger  out  the  end, 
and  play  with  him  with  the  rope,  letting  him  catch 
hold  of  it,  and  causing  him  to  bark  at  it  by  using 
the  word  '•  Speak."  When  he  takes  hold  of  the 
rope,  say,  "  Up,  "  and  when  you  wish  him  to  let 


119 

go,  "  Do."  You  may  then,  with  a  slow  cow,  call 
him  up,  and  taking  hold  of  his  tail,  say,  ''  Up,"  and 
"  Speak,"  to  teach  him  to  take  hold  of  the  tail  and 
bark,  when  you  say,  "  Start  'em  up,"  and  "  Speak 
to  them,"  and  to  let  go  when  you  say,  "That  will 
do."  Now  accustom  him  to  the  word  "Fetch," 
for  sheep,  and  "  Get,"  for  cattle,  &c.,  so  that  when 
you  say,  "Go  and  get  the  cattle,"  he  knows  you 
mean  cattle  instead  of  sheep  or  horses.  You  may 
now  teach  him  to  know  the  right  from  the  left,  and 
to  obey  your  orders  in  that  respect,  by  taking  him 
into  a  large  room,  and  by  the  motion  of  your  right 
hand  try  to  have  him  go  to  the  right,  from  you,  say- 
ing, "Go — right"  If  he  does  not  do  it,  say,  "Halt," 
and  repeat.  When  he  does  do  it,  say,  "  That  will 
do."  Continue  this  until  he  will  go  to  the  right  at 
the  motion  of  your  hand  and  the  word  "  Eight," 
then  with  your  left  hand  making  motions,  and  the 
word  "  Left,"  you  learn  him  the  opposite.  By  these 
motions,  and  an  appeal  to  the  intelligence  of  the 
dog,  by  your  countenance  and  eyes,  you  can  start 
him  for  the  fields  in  any  direction  you  choose,  and 
he  soon  learns  to  do  your  wants  with  very  little  tell- 
ing. Following  these  rules  will  satisfy  you  that  the 
dog  can  be  taught  indefinitely  respecting  all  things 
.  which  pertain  to  his  peculiar  nature. 


The  'Wa.tch.  Dog;. 

For  a  good  watch  dog,  select  one  of  a  breed  adapted 
to  the  business.     There  is  but  little  that  you  c^ii, 
6 


120 

teacli  sucli  an  one,  as  it  is  somewhat  of  a  natural 
trait,  and  any  other  than  a  natural  watch  dog,  how- 
ever much  you  may  labor  with  him,  will  never  be 
reliable.  A  barking  dog,  one  that  will  be  noisy  on 
the  approach  of  intruders,  is  the  best ;  a  dog  that 
bites,  bat  does  not  bark,  is  only  fit  to  put  in  barns, 
or  other  out-buildings  nights,  chaining  him  up  day- 
times ;  and  then  he  is  dangerous,  even  to  his  keeper, 
as  a  sudden  start  will  cause  him  to  bite  an}^  one. 
To  learn  your  dog,  give  him  something  to  watch, 
saying,  "Take  care  of  it,"  as  you  place  him  near  the 
obj  ect.  He  will  soon  learn  the  word,  and  upon  being 
directed  to  any  particular  thing,  will  faithfully  guard 
it.  While  learning  him,  allow  no  one  but  yourself 
to  approach  him,  without  setting  him  on.  You  may 
have  a  stranger  approach  him  and  tease  him,  you 
urging  him  to  drive  the.  stranger  away,  and  as  soon 
as  he  starts,  let  the  person  run,  you  calling  the  dog 
back.  While  young,  do  not  compel  him  to  stay  too 
long  at  one  thing,  and  when  you  go  up  to  him  and 
say,  "That  will  do,"  feed  him  something.  After  the 
manner  spoken  of  in  the  previous  illustration,  when- 
ever you  wish  the  dog  to  bite,  or  go  at  any  person  or 
thing,  you  will  teach  him  the  words  the  reverse  of 
what  you  mean,  such  as,  "Be  still,"  "Get  out,"  "Lie 
down."  You  will  see  that  a  person  not  understand- 
ing the  dog,  will  not  be  very  apt  to  get  near  him,  as 
he  would  naturally  make  use  of  those  words,  and 
they  would  be  setting  him  on,  instead  of  quieting 
him.     To  call  him  yourself,  use  such  convenient  word 


121 

as  you  choose,  but  not  one  natui-ally  used  by  others. 
As  this  ingenious  nse  of  words  is  about  the  only  new 
idea  I  can  suggest,  to  teach  watch  dogs,  the  master 
can  use  his  own  ingenuity  to  render  it  practical. 


Tlie  Xriclc  Dog:. 

Man}^  amusing  tricks  may  be  taught,  which  will 
exhibit,  in  a  wonderful  degree,  the  intelligence  of  the 
dog.  As  I  have  before  said,  much  depends  upon  the 
breed.  A  dog  of  one  peculiar  breed  may  be  learned 
a  certain  class  of  tricks,  while  that  of  another  breed 
will  be  entirely  different  in  his  characteristics.  A 
well  bred  dog  is  hard  to  learn  any  tricks  except  those 
pertaining  to  his  nature  ;  while  a  mongrel  cur  is  quite 
easy  to  learn  any.  Perhaps  a  Spaniel  poodle  dog  is 
the  most  tractable  of  any,  a  Black-and-Tan  is  quite 
apt.  I  give  a  few  examples,  sufficient  to  form  a 
ground-work  for  the  intelligent  operator  to  extend 
his  list  of  tricks  at  his  pleasure. 


TUe  First    IStep  to  be  Xaken. 

When  you  are  preparing  the  dog  to  receive  his 
first  lesson,  it  is  necessary  to  place  him  where  you 
can  control  him.  Procure  a  piece  of  cord  ten  feet 
long,  and  one  fourth  of  an  inch  in  diameter;  tie  a 
knot  in  each  end — one  that  will  not  slip.  Take  one 
end,  place  it  around  the  dog's  neck,  to  get  the  size, 
then  tie  another  knot,  and  again  place  it  around  his 
neck,  slipping  the  end  with  knot  through,  and  make 
fast.     The  proper  way  of  training  him  is  with  a  whip. 


1^ 

a  small  riding  whip.  In  giving  liim  his  first  lesson, 
should  tie  attempt  to  run  from  you,  (as  he  undoubt- 
edly will,)  give  him  a  sudden  jerk,  and  say,  "Come 
here ;"  as  he  comes  back,  talk  gently,  pat  and  caress 
him ;  that  is  to  show  him  he  has  done  right  in  coming 
back.  A  few  pulls  with  the  cord,  and  he  will  not 
attempt  to  leave  you. 

Xo  IL<ea,rii  Him  to  Sit  I>otvii. 

Press  your  hand  upon  his  back  toward  his  hind 
legs,  and  say,  "Sit  down,"  at  the  same  time  tapping 
with  your  foot  upon  the  floor.  If  he  attempts  to  lie 
down  or  draw  his  feet  under  him,  coax  him  up,  and 
learn  him  that  "sit  down"  is  what  you  are  after,  tap- 
ping him  under  the  chin  to  keep  his  head  well  up. 
He  will,  after  a  few  lessons,  sit  down  at  the  word, 
and  a  tapping  of  your  foot  on  the  floor,  or  with  your 
whip,  holding  him  by  the  cord,  tap  him  lightly  on 
the  top  of  the  quarters,  saying,  "Sit  down,"  each  time 
a  little  harder,  until  he  sits  down,  then  pat  him  to 
show  he  has  done  right. 

Xo  Iflake  a  Ito^r. 

When  he  gets  handy,  and  will  sit  down  at  the  word, 
then  say  to  him,  "Make  a  bow."  This  trick  you  can 
learn  him  iu  a  very  short  time.  As  he  sits  down, 
place  your  right  hand  on  the  top  of  his  head,  and 
with  a  quick  move,  press  down,  saying,  "Make  a 
bow."     By  accompanying  the  word  with  the  act, 


quite  often,  eacTi  day,  for  a  few  days,  he  will  under- 
stand the  word  without  the  act,  and  obey  readily. 


To  I^earn  Him  to  Sit  Up. 

Sit  him  up  in  the  corner,  and  with  a  switch,  hit 
him  lightly  under  the  mouth,  snapping-  your  finger, 
and  saying,  "Sit  up."  As  he  comes  down,  put  him, 
back  and  repeat,  until  he  remains,  which  he  will  do 
in  a  few  minutes,  then  say,  "That  will  do,"  and  coax 
him  down,  and  caress  him.  When  he  has  learned 
this  sufficiently,  sit  him  up  against  a  wall  and  try  the 
same  thing.  This  will  require  more  patience,  as  he 
can  so  easily  get  over  to  either  side.  When,  how- 
ever, he  will  do  it,  then  take  him  out  in  the  centre 
of  the  floor;  this  will  take  still  longer,  but  if  fol- 
lowed up,  kindly,  and  perseveringly,  he  will  learn  to 
perform  the  trick  at  the  word  and  the  snapping  of 
the  finger. 


To  Stand  Up. 

Take  some  food  in  your  hands,  and  offer  it  to  him, 
holding  it  well  up,  and  say,  "Stand  up."  Eepeat 
this  until  he  will  stand  up  quite  readily,  holding  out 
your  unoccupied  hand  for  him  to  support  his  fore-feet 
on.  Gradually  take  away  your  hand,  each  time  that 
he  comes  up,  saying,  "Stand  up."  Then  take  him  by 
the  forward  feet,  and  lift  him  up  quite  hard,  and  say, 
"Stand  up."  You  will  soon  get  him  so  that  when 
you  lift  him,  he  will  straighten  up  and  show  signs  of 
standing  ;  then  make  the  effort  to  learn  him  to  stand 


124 

■up  at  the  word,  and  the  holding  ont  of  j^our  hand. 
You  may  now  combine  this  with  the  last  trick,  say- 
ing, '-Sit  up,"  ''Stand  up,"  "That  will  do."  These  are 
the  first  tricks  he  should  be  taught,  as  they  are  the 
foundation  for  others. 


Xo  Oet  into  a.  Cliair. 

This  is  easily  done,  taking  your  own  way  to  coax 
him  into  the  chair,  using  the  word  "Chair"  whenever 
you  cause  him  to  get  into  it.  When  he  becomes 
familiar  with  the  word,  accompanied  with  a  motion 
of  the  hand  towards  a  chair,  you  may  use  other  words 
in  connection  therewith,  "Go  and  get  into  the  chair." 
After  he  will  do  this  handy,  you  may  then  learn  him 
to  put  his  paws  upon  the  back  of  the  chair,  by  asking 
him  to  "Put  them  up,"  or  saying  "Up,"  assisting  him 
at  first.  When  he  will  do  it  readily,  you  may  teach 
him  to  put  his  head  down  upon  his  paws,  by  placing 
it  there,  and  repeating  the  word  "Down,"  of  course 
caressing  him  each  time  that  he  complies.  To  have 
him  hold  up  his  head,  tap  him  under  the  mouth  and 
say  "Up,"  remembering  to  say,  "That  will  do,"  when 
you  are  through  the  trick.  You  may  learn  him  to 
jump  over  the  chair  by  playfully  coaxing  him  to  do 
so,  saying,  "Jump.*' 

It  is  now  very  easy  to  learn  him  to  "Sit  down" 
on  a  low  stool  or  a  chair.  You  may  then  learn  him 
to  "  Take  a  seat  "on  the  stool  by  leading  him  around 
by  his  forward  feet,  and  sitting  him  on  the  stool  with 
his  forward  feet  held  up,  saying,  "Seat."     You  then 


125 

have  him  learned  to  go  on  all  fours,  and  sit  down  on 
the  stool,  and  to  go  on  his  hind  feet  and  take  a  seat 
with  his  forward  feet  up. 


To  ITIake  Him  €Jo  I^ame. 

Tap  him  with  a  little  rod  on  the  hind  foot  saying, 
"Lame,"  learning  him  to  stand  and  hold  it  up  when- 
ever you  say,  "Lame."  Now  coax  him  along,  and  if 
he  puts  it  down,  hit  him  quite  smartly  on  the  foot, 
making  him  keep  it  up  until  he  will  go  lame,  at  the 
word  and  a  motion  of  the  rod.  Kow  whenever  you 
send  him  into  the  chair,  as  before,  as  he  goes  to  jump 
down,  stop  him,  teaching  him  to  wait  for  the  word 
"Do  ;"  as  he  comes  down  with  his  fore-feet  on  the  floor 
say,  "Steady,"  and  learn  him  to  stop  with  his  hind 
legs  up  in  the  chair*     He  is  now  ready. 


To  Run  on  his  ForTT^ard  lies^. 

To  teach  him  this,  take  hold  of  his  hind  legs,  lift 
them  up  and  walk  him  around  in  a  circle,  and  place 
them  in  a  chair,  saying,  '  'Eound. ' '  Do  this  every  time 
you  perform  the  trick  of  having  him  get  into  the 
chair.  After  a  while  take  him  by  the  tail  and  lift 
him  up,  and  switching  his  hind  legs  lightly,  walk 
him  around  in  the  same  manner,  saying,  "Eound,"  as 
before.  With  patience  and  perseverance  he  will 
learn  to  lift  up  his  hind  legs  at  the  motion  of  the 
whip,  and  on  the  words,  "Gro  around,"  perform  a  cir- 
cle, walking  on  his  forward  feet,  and  place  his  hind 


126 

feet  in  tlie  chair ;  of  course  tlie  height  of  the  chair 
must  be  adapted  to  the  length  of  the  dog's  legs. 


To  Xeacli  Him  to  Find  Xhingfs. 

Take  something  with  which  he  is  accustomed  to 
play,  and  after  getting  him  enlivened  with  play,  call 
him  up  to  you  and  blindfold  him,. and  throw  the  ar- 
ticle a  short  distance  from  you.  If  the  dog  has  good 
scent,  tell  him  you  have  "  Lost,"  then  remove  the 
blindfold  and  he  will  search  and  find  it.  Eepeat 
this,  throwing  it  farther  each  time,  until  you  can 
throw  your  knife  or  anything  which  you  have  held 
in  your  hand,  at  a  distance,  you  looking  in  the  di- 
rection and  saying,  "  I  have  lost  my  knife."  He 
will  search  until  he  finds  and  brings  it  to  you.  If 
the  dog  has  not  good  scent,  learn  him  to  look  down 
at  the  word  "Find,"  and  up  at  the  word  "Up,"  doing 
as  before,  I  have  now  given  a  sufficient  number  of 
examples  to  set  forth  the  important  rules  which  gov- 
ern the  teaching  of  Dogs.  By  an  observance  of 
these,  you  may  teach  your  dog  to  climb  ladders,  to 
fetch  things  to  you,  carry  baskets,  roll  over,  lie  down, 
shut  doors,  and  an  almost  innumerable  number  of 
tricks.  To  teach  the  dog,  however,  you  must  have 
perfect  control  over  your  temper,  never  whip  se- 
verely, never  get  out  of  patience. 


127 


TURF  CALENDAR. 


Flora  Temple,  the  fastest  trotting  horse  in  the 
world,  was  sired  by  One  Eyed  Hunter — the  pedigree 
of  her  dam  is  not  known.  Flora  is  now  twenty 
years  old,  1865;  is  owned  by  A.  Welch,  Esq.,  of 
Chestnut  Hills,  Philadelphia.  Her  best  time  was 
made  at  Kalamazoo,  October  15th,  1859,  a  full  mile 
in  2  min.  19  3-4  sec,  which  is  the  best  time  ever 
made  by  a  trotting  horse.  She  beat  Greo.  M.  Patch - 
en,  on  the  Union  course,  in  2.21 ;  she  beat  Ethan 
Allen,  and  mate,  in  2.20  1-2. 

George  M.  Patchen  trotted  under  the  saddle,  on 
Union  course,  Nov.  21,  1850,  in  2.24. 

Brown  Dick  beat  Patchen  in  2.25  1-4. 

Ethan  Allen's  best  time,  single,  was  2.25  1-2  ;  trot- 
ted with  a  running  mate,  Sept.  5,  1861,  on  Fashion 
course,  in  2.19  3-4. 

The  fastest  time  on  record,  for  a  three  years  old, 
was  made  by  Cora,  in  2.37  3-4. 

Gen.  Butler's  best  time  was  2.21.  Dexter  beat  him 
three  straight  heats  on  the  Fashion  Course,  Sept.  7, 
1865—2.26  1-2,  2.24  1-2,  2.22  1-2. 

Toronto  Chief  beat  Yanderbilt,  on  the  Fashion 
course,  Sept.  9,  1865,  in  2.23,  2.27,  2.27  3-4.      Yan- 
derbilt trotted  one  heat  in  2.27  3-4, 
*6 


.      128 

The  fastest  running  time  on  record,  for  a  single 
mile,  was  made  at  Cincinnati,  by  Legal  Tender  in  1 
min.  44  sec.  The  best  time  ever  made  in  England 
is  1.39,  made  by  Gladiator.  It  is  said  that  Bay 
Middleton  ran  the  same  mile  in  1.60,  but  there  is  no 
record  of  such  time. 

Brown  Dick  made  the  best  time  for  three  mile 
heats,  in  5.28. 

Pocahontas  paced  a  full  mile  in  2.17  1-2,  which 
is  the  best  time  on  record. 

The  greatest  performance  in  double  harness,  on 
record,  a  2. 12  gait  to  road  wagon.  Lady  Palmer 
and  Flatbush  Mare,  driven  by  their  owner,  Mr. 
Bonner,  taken  out  of  his  stable  untrained,  to  a  road 
wagon,  in  public.  May  10th,  1862,  one  mile  in  2.26  ; 
May  13th,  two  miles  in  5.01  1-2,  the  second  quarter 
of  the  second  mile  in  83  seconds,  being  a  2.12  gait 
to  a  road  wagon. 

Since  the  writing  of  this  book.  Flora  Temple's 
time  has  been  beaten.  Dexter  in  his  great  match 
against  time  on  the  fashion  course,  October  10th, 
1865,  trotted  a  mile  under  the  saddle  in  the  unparal- 
leled time  of  2.18  1-5. 


129 


LATEST   AND    FASTEST   TIME 
RECORDED. 


1  mile  in  "harness,  2.17  1-4,  Dexter. 
1  mile  to  wagon,  2.24,  Dexter. 
1  mile  under  saddle,  2.18,  Dexter. 
1  mile  100  lb.  wagon,  2.28,  Ethan  Allen. 
1  mile,  double  team,  2.19  3-4,  Ethan  Allen  and 
mate,  and  Lantern  and  mate ;  dead  heat. 

1  mile,  double  team,  2.15,  Ethan  Allen  and  run- 
ning mate,  beating  Dexter. 

2  miles  in  harness,  4.50  1-2,  Flora  Temple. 

2  miles  in  double  harness,  5.19,  Ladj  Suffolk  and 
Kifle. 

3  miles  under  saddle,  7.32  1-2,  Dutchman. 

3  miles  to  350  lb.  wagon,  8.38,  Kemble  Jackson. 

4  miles  in  harness,  11.42,  Smotes. 

5  miles  to  road  wagon,  14.42,  Mary  Warren. 
10  miles  in  harness,  28.08  1-4,  Prince. 

20  miles  in  harness,  58.25,  Captain  McGowan. 

50  miles  in  harness,  3.50:  4,  Spangle,  to  wagon  and 
driver,  400  lbs. 

100  miles  in  harness,  8.55  :  53,  Conqueror. 

100  miles  in  harness, double  team,  10.17 :  22,  Master 
Burke  and  Robin. 

Pacing,  1  mile,  2.17  1-2,  Pocahontas. 


130 


2  miles  in  harness,  4.56  1-2,  Hero. 

2  miles  to  wagon,  438  1-2,  Young  America. 

Leaping  Horse,  §8  feet  over  water,  Chandler. 

84  feet,  over  hurdles,  Calvesthorpe^ 

30  feet  over  wall,  Lottery. 


131 


STABLE  MANAGEMENT. 


This  is  a  very  important  part  of  my  subject,  even 
as  it  regards  the  farmer,  although  there  are  compara- 
tively few  glaring  errors  in  the  treatment  of  the  agri- 
cultural horse  ;  but  it  comes  more  especially  home 
to  the  gentleman,  who  is  too  often  and  too  implicitly 
under  the  guidance  of  an  idle,  ignorant  and  design- 
ing groom.  I  will  arrange  the  important  points  of 
general  management  under  the  following  heads  : 

Air. 

The  breathing  of  pure  air  is  necessary  to  the  ex- 
istence and  health  of  man  and  beast.  It  is  compar- 
atively lately  that  this  has  been  admitted  even  in  the 
management  of  our  best  stables.  They  have  been 
close,  hot,  and  foul,  instead  of  airy,  cool  and  whole- 
some. The  stable  should  be  as  large,  compared  with 
the  number  of  horses  that  it  is  destined  to  contain, 
as  circumstances  will  allow.  A  stable  for  six  horses 
should  not  be  less  than  thirty  feet  in  length,  and 
thirty  feet  wide.  If  there  is  no  loft  above,  the  inside 
of  the  roof  should  always  be  plastered,  in  order  to 
prevent  direct  currents  of  air  and  occasional  drop- 
pings from  broken  tiles.  The  heated  and  foul  air 
should  escape,  and  cool,  pure  air  be  admitted,  by 
elevation  of  the  central  tiles ;  or  by  large  tubes  car- 
ried through  the  roof,  with  caps  a  little  above  them, 


132 

to  prevent  t"he  beating  in  of  the  rain  ;  or  by  gratings 
placed  high  up  in  the  walls.  These  latter  apertures 
should  be  as  far  above  the  horses  as  they  can  con- 
veniently be  placed,  by  which  means  all  injurious 
draught  will  be  prevented.  If  there  is  a  loft  above 
the  stable,  the  ceiling  should  be  plastered,  in  order 
to  prevent  the  foal  air  from  penetrating  to  the  hay 
above,  and  injuring  both  its  taste  and  its  wholesome- 
ness  ;  and  no  opening  should  be  allowed  above  the 
manger  through  which  the  hay  may  be  thrown  into 
them ;  for  they  will  permit  the  foul  air  to  ascend  to 
the  provender,  and  also  in  the  act  of  filling  the  man- 
gers, and  while  the  horse  is  eagerly  gazing  upward 
for  his  food,  a  grass  seed  may  fall  into  his  eye,  and 
produce  considerable  inflammation.  At  other  times, 
when  the  careless  groom  has  left  open  the  trap-door, 
a  cold  stream  of  air  beats  down  on  the  head  of  the 
horse.  The  stable  with  a  loft  over  it  should  never 
be  less  than  twelve  feet  high,  and  proper  ventilation 
should  be  secured,  either  by  tubes  carried  through 
the  roof,  or  by  gratings  close  to  the  ceiling.  These 
gratings  or  openings  should  be  enlarged  or  contracted 
by  means  of  a  covering  or  shutting,  so  that  spring, 
summer,  and  autumn,  the  stable  may  possess  nearly 
the  same  temperature  with  the  open  air,  and  in  win- 
ter a  temperature  of  jiot  more  than  ten  degrees  above- 
that  of  the  external  atmosphere.  A  hot  stable  has, 
in  the  mind  of  the  groom,  been  connected  with  a 
glossy  coat  The  latter,  it  is  thought,  cannot  be  ob- 
tained without  the  former.     To  this  I  reply,  that  in 


133 

winter  a  thin  glossy  coat  is  not  very  desirable.  ITa- 
ture  gives  to  every  animal  a  warmer  clothing  when 
the  cold  weather  approaches.  The  horse,  the  agri- 
cultural horse  especially,  acquires  a  thicker  and 
lengthened  coat,  in  order  to  defend  him  from  the 
surrounding  cold.  Man  puts  on  an  additional  and  a 
warmer  covering,  and  his  comfort  is  increased,  and 
his  health  improved  by  it.  He  who  knows  anything 
of  the  farmer's  horse,  or  cares  about  his  enjoyment, 
will  not  object  to  a  coat  a  little  longer,  and  a  little 
roughened  when  the  wintry  wind  blows  bleak.  The 
coat,  however,  not  to  be  so  long  as  to  be  unsightly, 
and  warm  clothing,  even  in  a  cool  stable,  will,  with 
plenty  of  honest  grooming,  keep  the  hair  sufficiently 
smooth  and  glossy  to  satisfy  the  most  fastidious. 

The  over-heated  air  of  a  close  stable  saves  much 
of  this  grooming,  and  therefore  the  idle  attendant 
unscrupulously  sacrifices  the  health  and  safety  of  the 
horse.  When  I  have  presently  to  treat  of  the  hair 
and  skin  of  the  horse,  this  will  be  placed  in  a  some- 
what different  point  of  view.  If  the  stable  is  close, 
the  air  will  not  only  be  hot,  but  foul.  The  breath- 
ing of  every  animal  contaminates  ;  and  when  in  the 
course  of  the  night,  with  every  aperture  stopped,  it 
passes' again  and  again  through  the  lungs,  the  blood 
cannot  undergo  its  proper  and  healthy  change ; 
digestion  will  not  be  so  perfectly  performed,  and  all 
the  functions  of  life  are  injured.  Let  the  owner  of  a 
valuable    horse    think   of  his   passing   twenty,    or 


134 

twenty -two  out  of  tlie  twenty -four  hours,  in  this  de 
bilitating  atmosphere. 

Nature  does  wonders  in  enabling  every  animal 
to  accommodate  itself  to  the  situation  in  which  it  is 
placed,  and  the  horse  that  lives  in  the  stable,  even 
suffers  less  from  it,  than  would  scarcely  be  conceived 
possible.  But  he  does  not,  and  cannot  possess  the 
power  and  hardihood  which  he  would  acquire  under 
other  circumstances.  This  air  of  the  improperly 
close  and  heated  stable  is  still  further  contaminated 
by  the  urine  and  dung,  which  rapidly  ferment  there, 
and  give  out  simulating  and  unwholesome  vapors. 
When  a  person  first  enters  an  ill -managed  stable, 
and  especially  early  in  the  morning,  he  is  annoyed 
not  only  by  the  heat  of  the  confined  air,  but  by  a 
pungent  smell,  resembling  hartshorn ;  and  can  he 
be  surprised  at  the  inflammation  of  the  eyes,  and  the 
chronic  cough,  and  the  disease  of  the  lungs,  by 
which  the  animal  who  has  been  all  night  shut  up  in 
this  wretched  atmosphere  is  often  attacked ;  or  if 
the  glanders  and  farcy  should  occasionally  break 
out  in  such  stables?  It  has  been  ascertained  by 
chemical  experiment  that  the  urine  of  the  horse 
contains  an  exceedingly  large  quantity  of  hartshoni, 
and  not  only  so,  but  that,  influenced  by  the  heat  of  a 
crowded  stable,  and  possibly  by  other  decompositions 
that  are  going  forward  at  the  same  time,  this  am- 
moniacal  vapor  begins  to  be  rapidly  given  out,  almost 
immediately  after  the  urine  is  voided.  When  dis- 
ease begins  to  appear  among  the  inhabitants  of  these 


136 

ill- ventilated  places,  is  it  wonderful  that  it  shonld 
rapidly  spread  among  them,  and  that  the  plague 
spot  should  be,  as  it  were,  placed  on  the  door  of  such 
a  stable?  When  distemper  appears  in  spring,  or 
autumn,  it  is  in  very  many  cases  to  be  traced  to 
such  a  pest  house.  It  is  peculiarly  fatal  there.  The 
horses  belonging  to  a  small  establishment,  rationally 
treated,  have  it  comparatively  seldom,  or  have  it 
lightly.  But  among  the  inmates  of  a  crowded  stable 
it  is  sure  to  display  itself,  and  there  it  is  most  fatal. 
The  experience  of  every  veterinary  surgeon,  and  of 
every  large  proprietor  of  horses,  will  corroborate 
this  statement.  Every  stable  should  possess  within 
itself  a  certain  degree  of  ventilation.  The  cost  of 
this  would  be  trifling,  and  its  saving  in  the  preser- 
vation of  valuable  animals  may  be  immense.  The 
apertures  need  not  be  large,  and  the  whole  may  be 
so  contrived  that  no  direct  current  of  air  shall  fall 
on  the  horse.  A  gentleman's  stable  should  never 
be  without  a  thermometer.  The  temperature  should 
seldom  exceed  70  '^  in  the  summer,  or  sink  below 
40  ^  or  50  ^  in  the  winter. 

I^itter. 

Having  spoken  of  the  vapor  of  hartsorn,  which  is 
so  rapidly  and  so  plentifully  given  out  from  the 
urine  of  the  horse  in  a  heated  stable,  I  next  take  in- 
to consideration  the  subject  of  litter.  The  first 
caution  is  frequently  to  remove  it.  The  early  ex- 
trication of  gas  shows  the  rapid  putrification  of  the 


186 

urine ;  and  the  consequences  of  which  will  be  rapid 
putrificaticni  of  the  litter  that  is  moistened  bj  it. 

Everything  hastening  to  decomposition  should  be 
carefully  removed,  where  life  and  health  are  to  be 
preserved.  The  litter  that  has  been  much  wetted  or 
at  all  softened  by  the  urine,  and  is  beginning  to 
decay,  should  be  swept  away  every  morning;  the 
greater  part  of  the  remainder  may  then  be  piled 
under  the  manger,  a  little  being  left  to  prevent  the 
painful  and  injurious  pressure  of  the  feet,  on  the 
hard  floor  during  the  day.  The  soiled  and  soaked 
portion  of  that  which  was  left,  should  be  removed  at 
night.  In  the  better  kind  of  stables,  however,  the 
stalls  should  be  completely  emptied  every  morning. 
No  heap  of  fermenting  dung  should  be  suffered  to 
remain  during  the  day,  in  the  corner,  or  in  any  part 
of  the  stable.  With  regard  to  this,  the  directions  of 
the  master  should  be  peremptory.  The  stable  should 
be  so  contrived  that  the  urine  shall  quickly  run  off, 
and  the  offensive  and  injurious  vapors  from  the  de- 
composing fluid,  and  the  litter,  will  then  be  materi- 
ally lessened ;  but  if  this  is  effected  by  means  of  gut- 
ters, and  a  descending  floor,  the  descent  must  be 
barely  sufficient  to  cause  the  fluid  to  escape,  as  if  the 
toes  are  kept  higher  than  the  heels,  it  will  lead  to 
lameness,  and  is  also  a  frequent  cause  of  contraction 
of  the  foot.  Stalls  of  this  kind  certainly  do  best  for 
mares,  but  for  horses  we  much  prefer  those  with  a 
grating  in  the  center,  and  a  slight  inclination  of  the 
floor  on  every  side,  towards  the  middle,  and  short 


187 

branch  may  communicate  with  a  larger  drain,  by 
means  of  which  the  urine  may  be  carried  off  to  a  res- 
ervoir outside  the  stable.  Traps  are  now  contrived, 
and  may  be  procured  at  a  little  expense,  by  means 
of  which  neither  any  offensive  smell  nor  current  of 
air  can  pass  through  the  grating.  Humanity  and 
interest,  as  well  as  the  appearance  of  the  stable,  should 
induce  the  proprietor  of  the  horse  to  place  a  moderate 
quantity  of  litter  under  him  during  the  day. 

This  neglected  branch  of  stable  management  is  of 
far  more  consequence  than  is  generally  imagined; 
and  it  is  particularly  neglected  by  those  for  whom 
these  treatises  are  principally  designed.  The  farm- 
er's stable  is  frequently  destitute  of  any  glazed  win- 
dow, and  has  only  a  shutter,  which  is  raised  in  warm 
weather,  and  closed  when  the  weather  becomes  cold. 
When  the  horse  is  in  the  stable  only  during  a  few 
hours  in  the  day,  this  is  not  of  so  much  consequence, 
with  regrard  to  horses  of  slow  work ;  but  to  carria^'e 
horses,  and  hackneys,  so  far,  at  least^  as  the  eyes  are 
concerned,  a  dark  stable  is  little  less  injurious  than  a 
foul  and  heated  one.  In  order  to  illustrate  this,  ref- 
erence may  be  made  to  the  unpleasant  feeling,  and 
the  utter  impossibility  of  seeing  distinctly,  when  a 
man  suddenly  emerges  from  a  dark  place  into  the 
full  blaze  of  day.  The  sensation  of  mingled  pain 
and  giddiness  is  not  soon  forgotten,  and  some  min- 
utes pass  before  the  eye  can  accommodate  itself  to  the 
increased  light.     If  this  were  to  happen  every  day, 


138 

or  several  times  in  the  day,  tlie  sight  would  be  irre- 
parably injured,  or  possibly  blindness  would  ensue. 
Can  we  wonder,  then,  that  the  horse,  taken  from  a 
dark  stable  into  a  glow  of  light,  feeling  probably,  as 
we  should  do  under  similar  circumstances,  and  una- 
ble for  a  considerable  time  to  see  anything  around 
him  distinctly,  should  become  a  starter ;  or  that  the 
frequently  repeated  violent  effect  of  sudden  light 
should  induce  inflammation  of  the  eye,  so  intense  as 
to  terminate  in  blindness  ?  There  is,  indeed,  no 
doubt,  that  horses,  kept  in  dark  stables,  are  frequently 
notorious  starters,  and  that  abominable  habit  has  been 
traced  to  this  course.  If  plenty  of  light  is  admitted, 
the  walls  of  the  stable,  and  especially  that  portion  of 
them  which  is  before  the  horse's  head,  must  not  be 
of  too  glaring  a  color.  The  color  of  the  stable  should 
depend  on  the  quantity  of  light.  Where  much  can 
be  admitted,  the  walls  should  be  of  a  gray  hue ;  when 
darkness  would  otherwise  prevail,  frequent  white- 
washing may,  in  some  degree,  dissipate  the  gloom. 
For  another  reason,  it  will  be  evident  that  the  stable 
should  not  possess  too  glaring  a  light — it  is  the  rest- 
ing place  of  the  horse.  The  work  of  the  farmer's 
horse,  indeed,  is  confined  principally  to  the  day.  The 
hour  of  exertion  having  passed,  the  animal  returns 
to  his  stable  to  feed,  and  to  repose,  and  the  latter  is 
as  necessary  as  the  former,  in  order  to  prepare  him 
for  renewed  work.  Something  approaching  to  the 
dimness  of  twilight  is  requisite  to  induce  the  ani- 
mal to  compose  himself  to  sleep.     This  half-light 


lo9 

more  particularly  suits  horses  of  heavy  work.  In 
the  quietness  of  a  dimly -lighted  stable,  they  obtain 
repose,  and  accumulate  flesh  and  fat 

O  rooming'. 

Of  this,  much  need  not  be  said  to  the  agriculturist, 
since  custom,  and  apparently  without  ill  effect,  has 
allotted  so  little  of  the  comb  and  brush  to  the  farmer's 
horse.  The  animal  that  is  worked  all  day,  and  turned 
out  at  night,  requires  little  more  to  be  done  to  him 
than  to  have  the  dirt  brushed  off  his  limbs.  Regular 
grooming,  by  rendering  his  skin  more  sensible  to  the 
attraction  of  temperature,  and  the  inclemency  of  the 
weather,  would  be  prejudicial.  The  horse  that  is 
altogether  turned  out,  needs  no  grooming.  The 
dandruff",  or  scurf,  which  accumulates  at  the  roots  of 
the  hair,  is  a  provision  of  nature  to  defend  him  from 
the  wind  and  the  cold.  It  is  to  the  stabled  horse, 
highly  fed  and  little  or  irregularly  worked,  that 
grooming  is  of  so  much  consequence.  Good  rubbing 
with  the  brush,  or  the  curry-comb,  opens  the  pores 
of  the  skin,  circulates  the  blood  to  the  extremities  of 
the  body,  produces  free  and  healthy  perspiration ,  and 
stands  in  the  room  of  exercise.  No  horse  will  carry 
a  fine  coat  without  either  unnatural  heat  or  dressing. 
They  both  effect  the  same  purpose ;  they  both  increase 
the  insensible  perspiration ;  but  the  first  does  it  at 
the  expense  of  health  and  strength,  while  the  second, 
at  the  same  time  that  it  produces  a  glow  on  the  skin, 
and  a  determination  of  blood  to  it,  rouses  all  the 
energies  of  the  frame.     It  would  be  well  for  the  pro- 


140 

prietor  of  the  horse  if  he  were  to  insist  and  see  that 
his  orders  are  really  obeyed,  that  the  fine  coat  in 
which  he  and  his  groom  so  much  delight,  is  produced 
by  hand  rubbing,  and  not  by  a  heated  stable  and 
thick  clothing,  and  most  of  all,  not  by  stimulating  or 
injurious  spices.  The  horse  should  be  regularly 
dressed  every  day,  in  addition  to  the  grooming  that 
is  necessary  after  work. 

When  the  weather  will  permit  the  horse  to  be  taken 
out,  he  should  never  be  groomed  in  the  stable,  unless 
he  is  an  animal  of  peculiar  value,  or  placed  for  a  time 
under  peculiar  circumstances.  Without  dwelling  on 
the  want  of  cleanliness,  when  the  scurf  and  dust  are 
brushed  from  the  horse,  they  lodge  in  his  manger,  and 
mingle  with  his  food.  Experience  teaches  that  if  the 
cold  is  not  too  great,  the  animal  is  braced  and  invig- 
orated to  a  degree  that  cannot  be  attained  in  the 
stable,  from  being  dressed  in  the  open  air.  There  is 
no  necessity,  however,  for  half  the  punishment  which 
many  a  groom  inflicts  upon  the  horse  in  the  act  of 
dressing  ;  and  particularly  on  one  whose  skin  is  thin 
and  sensible.  The  curry-comb  should  at  all  times  be 
lightly  applied.  With  many  horses,  its  use  may  be 
almost  dispensed  with  ;  and  even  the  brush  need  not 
be  used  very  hard,  or  the  points  of  the  bristles  so 
irregular,  as  they  often  are. 

A  soft  brush,  with  a  little  more  weight  of  the 
hand  will  be  equally  effectual,  and  a  good  deal  more 
pleasant  to  the  horse.  A  hair  cloth,  while  it  will 
seldom  irritate,  and  tease,  will  be  almost  sufficient 


141 

with  horses  that  have  a  thin  skin,  and  that  have  not 

been  neglected.  After  all,  it  is  no  slight  task  to  dress 
a  horse  as  it  ought  to  be  done.  It  occupies  no  little 
time,  and  demands  considerable  patience,  as  well  as 
dexterity.  It  will  be  readily  ascertained  whether  a 
horse  has  been  well  dressed  by  rubbing  him  with  one 
of  the  fingers.  A  greasy  stain  will  detect  the  idleness 
of  the  groom.  Where,  however,  the  horse  is  chang- 
ing his  coat,  both  the  curry-comb  and  brush  should 
be  used  as  lightly  as  possible.  Whoever  would  be 
convinced  of  the  benefit  of  friction  to  the  horse's  skin, 
and  to  the  horse  generally,  needs  only  to  observe  the 
effects  produced  by  well  rubbing  the  legs  of  a  tired 
horse.  While  every  enlargement  subsides,  and  the 
painful  stiffness  disappears,  and  the  legs  attain  their 
natural  warmth,  and  become  fine,  the  animal  is  evi- 
dently and  rapidly  reviving ;  he  attacks  his  food  with 
appetite,  and  then  quietly  lies  down  to  rest. 
Exercise. 
My  observations  on  this  important  branch  of 
stable-management  must  have  only  a  slight  reference 
to  the  agricultural  horse.  His  work  is  usually  regu- 
lar and  not  exhausting.  He  is  neither  predisposed 
to  disease  by  idleness,  nor  worn  out  by  excessive 
exertion.  He,  like  his  master,  has  enough  to  do  to 
keep  him  in  health,  and  not  enough  to  distress  or 
injure  him ;  on  the  contrary,  the  regularity  of  his 
work  prolongs  life  to  an  extent  rarely  witnessed  in 
the  stable  of  the  gentleman.  My  remarks  on  exer- 
cise, then,  must  have  a  general  bearing,  or  have  prih- 


142 

cipal  reference  to  those  persons  who  are  in  middle 
stations  of  life,  and  wlio  contrive  to  keep  a  horse  for 
business  or  pleasure,  but  cannot  afford  to  maintain  a 
servant  for  the  express  purpose  of  looking  after  it 
The  first  rule  I  would  lay  down  is,  that  every  horse 
should  have  daily  exercise.  The  animal  that  with 
usual  stQ-ble  feeding,  stands  idle  for  three  or  four 
days,  as  is  the  case  in  many  establishments,  must 
suffer.  He  is  predisposed  to  fever,  or  to  grease,  or 
worse  than  all,  disease  of  the  feet,  and  if,  after  three 
or  four  days  of  inactivity,  he  is  ridden  far  and  fast, 
he  is  almost  sure  to  have  inflammation  of  the  lungs 
or  of  the  feet.  A  gentleman's,  or  tradesman's  horse 
suffers  a  great  deal  more  from  idleness  than  he  does 
from  work.  A  stable  fed  horse  should  have  two 
hours'  exercise  every  day,  if  he  is  to  be  kept  free 
from  disease.  Nothing  of  extraordinary,  or  even  of 
ordinary  labor,  can  be  effected  on  the  road  or  in  the 
the  field,  without  sufficient  and  regular  exercise.  It 
is  this  alone  which  can  give  energy  to  the  system,  or 
develop  the  power  of  any  animal.  In  training  the 
trotter  and  the  running  horse,  regular  exercise  is  the 
most  important  of  all  considerations,  however,  it  may 
be  forgotten  in  the  usual  management  of  the  stable. 
The  exercised  horse  will  discharge  his  task,  and 
sometimes  a  severe  one,  with  ease  and  pleasure,  while 
the  idle  and  neglected  one  will  be  fatigued  ere  half 
his  labor  is  accomplished,  and  if  he  is  pushed  a  little 
too  far,  dangerous  inflammation  will  ensue.  How  of- 
ten, nevertheless,  does  it  happen,   that  the  horse 


143 

whicli  has  stood  inactive  in  the  stable  three  or  four 
days,  is  ridden  or  driven  thirty  or  forty  miles  in  the 
course  of  a  single  day  ?  This  rest  is  often  purposely 
given  to  prepare  for  extra  exertion — to  lay  in  a  stock 
of  strength  for  the  performance  of  the  task  required 
of  him,  and  then  the  owner  is  surprised  and  dissatis- 
fied if  the  animal  becoa,  Ss  stiffened,  or  seriously  ill. 
Nothing  is  so  common,  and  so  preposterous,  as  for 
a  person  to  buy  a  horse  from  a  dealer's  stable,  where 
he  has  been  idly  fattened  for  sale  for  many  a  day, 
and  immediately  to  give  him  a  long  drive,  and 
then  to  complain  bitterly,  and  think  he  has  been  im- 
posed upon,  if  the  animal  is  exhausted  before  he 
arrives  at  his  destination,  and  is  compelled  to  be  led 
home  suffering  from  inflammation."  Eegular  and 
gradually  increasing  exercise  would  have  made  the 
same  horse  appear  a  treasure  to  his  owner.  Exercise 
should  be  somewhat  proportioned  to  the  age  of  the 
horse.  A  young  horse  requires  more  than  an  old 
one.  ISTature  has  given  to  young  animals  of  every 
kind  a  disposition  to  activity,  but  the  exercise  must 
not  be  violent.  A  great  deal  depends  upon  the 
manner  in  which  it  is  given.  To  preserve  the  tem- 
per and  promote  health,  it  should  be  moderate,  at 
least  at  the  beginning  and  the  termination.  The 
rapid  trot,  or  even  the  gallop,  may  be  resorted  to  in 
the  middle  of  the  exercise,  but  the  horse  should  be 
brought  in  cool.  There  are  many  other  points  in 
stable  management  I  would  like  to  mention,  but  the 

size  of  this  little  volume  will  not  admit  of  it 

7 


144 


BREEDING. 

To  all  persons  engaged  in  raising  horses,  the  sub- 
ject of  breeding  is  of  tVi  fir  .  importance ;  for  unless 
the  laws  which  govern  reproduction  be,  to  some 
extent,  understood  and  acted  upon,  all  efforts  to  im- 
prove existing  stocks,  or  to  produce  horses  for  par- 
ticular kinds  of  service,  must  depend  on  chance,  and 
of  course,  in  most  cases  prove  unsatisfactory.  The 
great  law  of  reproduction,  that  "like  begets  like," 
obtains,  with  universal  sway,  both  in  the  animal  and 
vegetable  kingdoms  of  nature.  But  every  circum- 
stance, however  trifling,  affecting  either  the  male  or 
the  female,  will  have  a  corresponding  influence  on 
the  offspring.  Every  farmer  knows  how  mysterious- 
ly his  genuine  white  wheat  becomes  degenerated, 
when  his  neighbors  pay  no  attention  to  keeping  a 
good  stock  of  wheat.  And  this  degeneracy  is  only 
the  result  of  the  fine  dust  from  the  bloom  (called 
pollen)  being  carried  by  the  wind  from  their  fields 
to  his.  As  a  general  rule,  nature  endeavors  to  im- 
press the  offspring  with  the  type "  of  both  parents  ; 
and  we  usually  find  a  more  or  less  perfect  blending 
.of  the  qualities  of  both  in  the  offspring,  with  a  de- 
cided prominence  of  those  qualities  peculiar  to  only 
one  of  the  parents. 


145 


And  this  does  not  extend  merely  to  physical  or-  ■ 
ganization,  but  is  equally  true  of  mental  character- 
istics, and  also  extends  to  the  propagation  of  the 
diseased  condition,  or  predisposition  to  the  diseases 
of  the  parents.  There  is  scarcely  a  malady  to  which 
the  horse  is  subject  which  is  not  hereditary,  or  to 
which  a  predisposition,  at  least,  may  not  be  trans- 
mitted. This  is  most  certainly  true  of  thick  wind, 
roaring,  blindness,  spavin,  curb,  contracted  feet, 
grease,  and  many  other  diseases  ;  and  particularly 
of  viciousness.  But  as  the  male  only  furnishes  the 
vivifying  principle  (the  pollen)  to  the  egg  (the  ovum) 
of  the  female,  w^hile  the  female  furnishes  the  nutri- 
ment of  the  embryo  animal  from  her  own  secretions, 
we  would  naturally  expect  the  offspring  to  partake 
more  of  the  qualities  of  the  female  than  of  the  male. 
And  this  fact  shows  that  the  selection  of  a  mare  to 
breed  from  is  of  more  importance  than  the  selection 
of  the  horse  to  breed  to  ;  a  truth  which  seems  to  have 
been  almost  entirely  overlooked,  practically,  at  least 
in  this  country,  for  we  find  that  farmers,  as  a  general 
thing,  instead  of  breeding  their  best  mares,  keep 
them  for  labor,  and  breed  those  which  are  unfit  for 
labor  on  account  of  their  age,  their  viciousness,  or 
even  their  positively  diseased  condition.  Hence, 
although  very  good  stallions  are  to  be  found  in  every 
part  of  our  country,  at  least  four-fifths  of  all  our 
horses  bear  evident  marks  of  hereditary  disease,  mal- 
formation, or  viciousness.     Though  the  defects  of 


146 


the  parents  may  not  appear  in  the  immediate  progeny 
they  will  most  certainly  be  found  in  the  second  gen- 
eration. From  the  foregoing  considerations,  we  may 
deduce  the  following  important  points  to  be  observed 
in  breeding. 

First,  the  mare  should  he  selected  from  a  stock 
known  to  be  suited  to  the  purpose  for  which  it  is 
proposed  to  breed.  She  should  be  of  proper  age  and 
size,  well  formed,  of  good  color,  proper  gait,  and  free 
from  any  disease  or  malformation,  or  any  hereditary 
taint. 

Second,  select  a  stallion  of  good  blood,  but  not  of 
near  kin  to  the  mare,  which  will  be  as  nearly  as  pos- 
sible a  perfect  complement  to  the  mare  ;  by  which 
it  is  meant  that  if  she  is  deficient  in  any  point,  this 
shall  be  remedied  by  his  peculiar  excellence  in  the 
same  point. 

Third,  it  is  more  important  that  the  ancestry  of 
the  mare  should  be  known  to  be  healthy  and  of  good 
stock  than  that  the  same  should  be  known  of  those 
of  the  stallion,  for  although  some  mares  breed  after 
the  horse,  I  believe  that  it  may  be  truly  stated  that 
three-fourths  breed  after  their  own  stock. 

To  illustrate  more  fully  these  principles,  suppose 
the  mare  to  be  too  fine  in  her  limbs  ;  to  remedy  this 
in  the  offspring,  the  horse  should  be  even  heavier 
limbed  than  desirable,  but  not  clumsy.  The  dam 
and  the  sire  should  always  be  paired ;  their  points 
should  be  well  compared,  so  that  any  defect  in  the 


147 


one  may  be  counteracted  bv  a  contrast  in  tlie  other. 
A  breeder  often  pitts  several  mares  to  the  same  horse, 
and  by  so  doing  seldom  gets  the  kind  of  horses  he 
intends  to  raise  ;  for  it  cannot  be  supposed  that  any 
man  will  be  so  careful  in  selecting  his  mares  as  to 
have  them  all  suitable  to  breed  to  the  same  stallion. 
Farmers  often  pursue  this  course  because  it  is  more 
convenient  to  have  all  their  breeders  served  by  the 
same  horse,  but  they  pay  dearly  for  their  convenience 
when  their  best  mares  bring^  colts  of  the  most  inferior 
character,  and  fit  for  an}^ thing  else  than  the  object 
for  which  they  intended  them.  This  subject  demands 
the  most  careful  consideration  by  all  who  would  per- 
petuate a  good  stock  or  improve  an  inferior  one. 

Another  very  important  point  to  be  observed  in 
breeding  is,  never  to  put  a  mare  to  a  stallion  of  the 
same  stock,  if  they  are  nearly  akin,  for  the  foal  will 
be  delicate,  and  seldom  as  good  or  as  large  as  either 
the  dam  or  the  sire,  and  never  as  durable  or  as  well 
mettled.  Natural  deformity  may  generally  be  traced 
to  the  fact  that  the  dam  and  sire  were  too  nearly 
akin.  A  distinguished  author  justly  remarks  on  the 
subject  of  "breeding  in  and  in,"  as  it  is  called,  that 
"it  is  a  fact,  however  much  some  may  deny  it,  that 
strict  confinement  to  one  breed,  however  valuable 
or  perfect,  produces  gradual  deterioration."  In  Eu- 
rope, where  the  writer  practiced  until  within  the  last 
twelve  years,  the  raiser  of  horses  for  the  turf  is  par- 
ticularly cautious  of  this  practice.     No  sportsman 


148 


would  purchase  a  race-horse,  if  he  knew  the  sire  and 

dam  to  be  closely  related. 

The  farmer  and  liverj^man  are  equally  careful  on 
this  subject.  To  pursue  successfully  the  system  of 
crossing,  requires  much  judgment  and  experience, 
for  the  bad  qualities  of  the  cross  are  easily  engrafted 
on  the  original  stock,  and  once  there,  are  not  for 
several  generations  got  rid  of;  and  the  good  ones  of 
both  are  occasionally  neutralized  to  a  most  mortify- 
ing extent.  Crossing  should  be  pursued  with  great 
caution,  and  the  most  perfect  of  the  same  breed 
should  be  selected,  but  varied  by  being  frequently 
taken  from  different  stocks. 

I  must  again  recur  to  the  very  pernicious  but  fre- 
quent practice  of  breeding  on  infirm,  small,  ill-shaped, 
bad-colored  mares,  and  those  positively  diseased,  or 
predisposed  to  disease  by  hereditary  taint  — ^  a  prac- 
tice which  cannot  be  too  severely  censured.  I  once 
interrogated  a  number  of  gentlemen  who  had  bought, 
at  auction  I  believe,  several  small,  ill-shaped  and 
diseased  mares,  to  know  why  they  should  have  pur- 
chased such,  when  they  were  certainly  able  to  have 
got  good-sized,  well-formed,  and  sound  ones.  One 
of  the  gentlemen  replied  that  he  knew  his  mare  was 
unfit  for  much  service,  but  he  got  her  cheap,  and  as 
he  had  plenty  of  grass,  he  intended  to  turn  her  to 
breed.  "My  friend,''  I  replied,  "your  mare  is  better 
suited  to  any  other  purpose.  Suppose  you  put  her 
to  a  horse  and  raise  a  colt,  you  cannot  expect  it,  at 


149 


the  age  of  four  or  five  years,  to  bring  more  than  fifty 
or  seventy-five  dollars  ;  and  if  any  hereditary  ailment 
should  descend  to  it,  it  will  not  bring  enough  to  pay 
the  keeping  of  the  dam  for  the  six  months  she  suck- 
led it.  Now  suppose  you  had  taken  the  opposite 
course,  and  purchased  a  large,  well-formed,  good- 
blooded  mare,  free  from  hereditary  ailment,  and  put 
her  to  a  judiciously  selected  stallion,  you  would  have 
stood  a  fair  chance  of  raising  a  colt  worth  double 
the  price  of  the  former,  and  you  would  also  have 
had  the  profitable  labor  of  the  mare."  Two  of  these 
gentlemen  followed  my  counsel,  disposed  of  their 
scrub  mares  and  purchased  others,  and  are  now 
raising,  perhaps  the  best  horses  in  their  vicinity. 

Another  subject  of  importance,  to  which  I  will 
now  call  attention,  is  the  unpardonable  practice  of 
breeding  mares  at  two  years  old.  This  hinders  the 
growth  and  spoils  the  form  of  the  mare.  Thus,  be- 
fore her  constitution  is  matured  or  her  strength  de- 
veloped, she  is  overladen,  which  crushes  down  her 
joints,  especially  the  fetlock,  changes  the  natural 
symmetry  of  the  body,  and  also  has  a  tendency  to 
injure  the  form  of  the  back,  and  ribs.  After  this 
burden  is  got  rid  of,  at  foaling,  then  comes  the  re- 
duction on  the  system  by  the  suckling  of  the  foal. 
All  these  influences  combined  destroy  the  strength, 
form  and  size  of  the  mare.  Besides  all  this,  the  foal 
comes  of  small  size,  not  having  had  room  in  the 
space  allowed  by  nature,  and  will  necessarily  be  very 


150 


delicate.  It  also  has  to  be  suckled  by  a  mare  that 
must  continue  to  grow,  and  needs  all  that  nature  fur- 
nishes for  that  purpose.  Thus  both  the  dam  and 
foal  must  be  deprived  of  the  full,  natural"  demands 
of  their  systems,  and  they  are  both  injured  for  all 
future  time. 

If  a  mare  is  well  treated  through  life,  allowing 
her  to  mature  before  putting  her  to  breed,  she  will 
continue  to  bring  good  foals  until  she  is  twenty,  and 
some  even  above  that  age.  But  if  hard  worked  and 
poorly  fed,  so  as  to  show  the  effect  of  such  treatment, 
she  cannot  be  expected  to  bring  and  raise  as  good 
foals  as  if  she  had  been  otherwise  treated. 

The  mare  is  said  to  go  with  foal  eleven  months, 
or  three  hundred  days  ;  but  fully  developed  foals 
have  been  brought  forth  five  weeks  earlier  than  this, 
while  in  other  instances  mares  have  carried  their 
foals  six  weeks  beyond  this  time.  Farmers  should 
not  lose  sight  of  this  in  patting  their  mares,  for  they 
should  have  their  colts  come  at  a  time  when  there  is 
some  grass,  as  the  mare  will  do  much  better  not  to 
be  confined  entirely  to  dry  feed  at  foaling.  Some 
writers  say  that  from  the  time  a  mare  is  put  to  the 
horse,  she  may  be  used  generally.  But  from  this 
opinion  my  own  observation  and  experience  constrain 
me  to  dissent  I  insist. that  she  should  be  allowed 
to  stand  idle  until  the  sensation  of  her  heat,  or  sea- 
son, as  it  is  sometimes  called,  subsides.  After  con- 
ception, every  mare,  if  permitted  to  go  free,  will 


loi 

stand  by  a  fence  or  tree  in  a  dormant  position,  after 
her  heat  goes  off.  ]^ow  if  at  this  time  she  be  over- 
worked  or  scared,  she  will  cast  the  conception  and 
will  require  to  be  served  again,  I  need  not  explain 
the  cause  of  this,  as  there  is  no  remedy  or  preventive 
for  it,  only  to  let  the  mare  have  ease  and  peace,  to 
allow  nature  to  fulfill  her  allotted  functions. 

There  can  be  no  doubt,  however,  that  after  a  mare 
has  been  a  few  weeks  with  foal,  moderate  work  will 
do  no  injury,  but  will  rather  be  ot  service  to  her. 
She  may  do  farm  work  up  to  the  time  of  foaling, 
but  must  never  be  placed  in  a  situation  where  she 
will  be  at  all  likely  to  receive  severe  jolts,  kicks,  or 
any  other  violence.  Another  evil  to  the  conception 
is  turning  mares  out  with  string-proud  or  badly  cas- 
trated horses,  to  be  teased  by  these  pests.  This  is 
very  pernicious  to  their  conception.  On  this  the 
farmer  needs  no  theory,  as  the  best  preventive  of  the 
evil  is  good  fences  to  keep  these  fellows  away  from 
his  breeding  mares. 

To  show  the  importance  of  attention  to  this  point, 
I  will  state  a  few  cases  which  have  come  under  my 
observation.  A  neighbor  of  mine  put  a  fine  gray 
mare  to  a  horse.  She  was  proved  on  the  regular 
trial  day,  and  showed  all  signs  of  conception.  About 
three  weeks  after  being  served,  she  stood  dozing  by 
a  fence,  and  the  owner  coming  up,  thinking  her  sick, 
started  her  rather  suddenly.  The  fright  so  shocked 
her  nervous  system  that  she  sickened,  lay  down  and 
7* 


162 


cast  the  embryo.  Another  in  the  same  township 
aborted  by  a  horse  teasing  her. 

I  knew  a  gentleman  who  put  a  mare  that  had  bred 
several  colts ;  but  at  this  time,  and  also  the  year  fol- 
lowing, she  was  grazed  in  a  pasture  adjoining  one 
in  which  a  string-proud  horse  was  kept,  and  of 
course  was  teased  by  him.  The  consequence  was, 
she  had  no  colt  for  two  years.  On  being  asked  my 
opinion  of  the  cause  of  this,  I  went  to  see  the  mare, 
knowing  that  bad  treatment  or  debility  of  the  sys- 
tem must  have  given  rise  to  the  difficulty.  When 
I  arrived,  I  ascertained  the  above  facts.  The  mare 
was  at  once  removed  from  her  tormentor,  and  for  a 
number  of  years  following  never  failed  to  breed. 
I  knew  another  mare  to  be  grazed  in  a  field  back  of 
the  stable  in  which  the  horse  was  kept  to  which  she 
had  been  put.  She  lingered  about  the  stable  and 
kept  her  heat  up,  and  did  not  conceive  until  removed 
to  another  field,  when  she  immediately  gave  signs 
of  conception,  and  in  due  time  brought  a  foal. 

Previous  to  the  time  of  foaling  there  will  be  no- 
ticed a  furrow-like  fold  on  each  side  of  the  spinal 
bone,  extending  from  the  tail  to  the  haunch.  This, 
and  the  increased  size  of  the  udder,  or  bag,  are  all 
the  symptoms  of  approaching  foaling  that  will  be 
observed  until  about  twenty-four  or  forty-eight  hours 
previous,  when  there  will  be  seen  an  adhesive  sub- 
stance protruding  from  each  teat,  like  drops  of  milk. 
This  is  a  certain  indication,  and  as  soon  as  it  is  ob- 


153 

served,  measures  must  be  taken  to  secure  the  safety 
of  tlie  foal,  which  will  require  that  the  mare  shall  be 
kept  in  a  suitable  place,  where  some  carefal  person 
can  look  after  her  safety. 

Kecurring  again  to  the  subject  of  putting  a  mare, 
I  would  remark  that  the  virgin  mare,  or  one  which 
has  not  for  one  season  had  a  colt,  is  to  be  put  when 
she  is  found  in  season.  But  the  mare  that  has  had 
a  colt  will  be  found  in  season  some  time  in  the  first 
month  after  foaling,  and  if  it  is  desired  to  breed  her 
again,  she  must  be  put  at  this  time.  She  should  be 
put  on  the  ninth  day  after  foaling ;  some  say  the 
eighth,  but  I  think  the  ninth  better.  Others  prefer 
the  eleventh  day,  but  it  is  dangerous  to  wait  longer 
than  this,  for  in  nine  cases  out  of  ten  the  mare  will 
have  come  her  heat,  and  will  not  receive  the  horse 
until  too  late  for  that  season.  The  chief  reason  of 
this  is,  that  suckling  reduces  the  system  of  the  mare 
too  much  to  allow  conception  to  take  place,  and  thus 
a  year's  service  of  the  breeder  is  lost.  I  have  known 
many  instances  of  this  kind.  I  know  only  one  rem- 
edy for  this,  and  it  is  too  barbarous  to  be  practiced, 
and  any  one  who  would  resort  to  it  should  be  pun- 
ished by  law.  After  putting  a  mare,  the  days  for 
trial  are  the  ninth  after  service,  the  seventh  after 
this,  and  the  fifth  after  this  again,  making  twenty- 
one  days.  Some  return  again,  commencing  with 
the  ninth  day,  and  follow  up  as  before,  making  forty- 
two  days.     But  I  insist  that,  as  twenty-one  days  is 


154 


the  period  elapsing  between  a  mare's  going  out  of 
heat  and  coming  in  again,  making  her  periodical 
term  thirty  days,  twenty-one  days  is  sufficient  to 
prove  a  mare. 

Every  breeder  should  be  able  to  judge  of  the  con- 
ception of  a  mare,  which  will  require  attention  to  the 
following  points  :  After  the  first  service  of  the  horse, 
and  before  the  next  trial,  on  examining  the  vagina, 
or  bearing,  as  some  call  it,  if  conception  has  not 
taken  place,  it  will  be  of  fresh,  bright,  or  florid  and 
moist  appeaxance,  with  a  clear  drop  appearing  at  the 
lower  part,  and  which,  if  touched,  will  incline  to 
extend  ;  but  if  conception  is  present,  a  different  ap- 
pearance of  the  vagina  will  be  presented.  It  will  be 
found  dry,  and  of  a  dirty  brown  or  rust  color,  and  a 
dark,  brown-looking  drop  will  replace  the  former 
clear  drop.  Where  these  latter  appearances  are 
present,  pregnancy  may  be  regarded  as  certain. — 
They  may  be  relied  on  as  a  sure  criterion  in  the 
purchase  of  a  mare  alleged  to  be  with  foal. 

Strange  as  it  may  appear,  some  mares,  even  though 
with  foal,  if  teased  at  about  the  expiration  of  the 
first  month,  or  part  of  the  second,  will  be  induced  to 
admit  of  the  service  of  the  horse.  I  have  frequently 
seen  this  proved.  The  author  once  put  a  mare  to  a 
horse  in  May.  She  stood  every  trial.  In  harvest  or 
in  September,  I  believe,  I  rode  her  by  the  stable  in 
which  the  horse  was  kept.  She  forced  toward  the 
stable.     I  took  her  there  and  found  that  she  stood 


165 

» 

the  teasing,  aud  should  have  let  the  horse  serve  her, 
but  the  groom  not  being  at  home,  I  was  unable  to  do 
so.  Subsequently,  I  deferred  putting  her  on  account 
of  the  lateness  of  the  season.  This  mare  proved  to 
be  with  foal,  and  brought  a  colt  early  the  following 
spring. 

Especial  care  should  be  taken  of  a  mare  about  the 
fourth  and  fifth  months  of  her  pregnancy,  and  from 
this  time  forward.  It  is  about  this  time  when  abor- 
tion is  most  likely  to  occur.  Her  feeding  should  be 
increased,  as  she  cannot  endure  hunger.  She  has 
peculiar  need  of  additional  feed,  as  the  rapid  growth 
of  the  embryo  is  a  material  tax  on  her  system,  call- 
ing for  an  increased  quantity  of  nutriment.  There 
are  two  animals  to  support  on  the  food  of  one.  This 
must  not  be  overlooked,  or  abortion  will  often  be  the 
consequence.  Another  cause  of  abortion,  which  I 
will  mention,  is  showing  a  mare  food  which  she  likes, 
and  has  been  in  the  habit  of  eating  previous  to  this 
time,  and  not  letting  her  have  it.  Seeing  or  even 
smelling  such  food  is  dangerous.  I  saw  a  mare  taken 
to  a  mill  in  the  month  of  November,  and  hitched  on 
a  floor  near  a  heap  of  bran,  which  she  tried  very 
hard  to  reach,  but  could  not.  Soon  after,  being 
taken  off  the  floor,  she  took  sick,  and  had  a  visible 
appearance  of  abortion ;  but  a  veterinarian  who  was 
present,  and  had  seen  the  whole  transaction,  took 
some  of  the  bran  and  fed  it  to  the  mare,  and  the 
spasms,  or  throes,  left  her,  and  never  returned  again 


156 

until  the  full  term.     I  have  known  other  similar  in 
stances.     Feeding  hogs  by  the  place  where  mares, 
not  grain-fed,  are  kept,  is  ultimately  dangerous. 

If  a  mare  once  slinks  her  colt,  she  will  be  very 
likely  to  do  so  at  the  same  period  of  her  pregnancy 
the  next  year,  and  continue  the  habit,  especially  if 
anything  like  the  same  provocation  occurs.  But  if  she 
slinks,  or  aborts,  from  a  hurt,  a  strain,  or  some  dis- 
ease, she  will  not  be  so  liable  to  contract  it  as  a 
habit.  The  best  remedy  I  have  ever  found,  when  a 
mare  shows  symptoms  of  abortion,  is  to  take  the 
feathers  of  wild  birds,  (pigeon  feathers  are  the  best,) 
and  burn  them  on  a  pan,  or  iron, 'holding  them  so 
that  she  can  inhale  or  breathe  the  smoke. 

If  a  mare  is  in  the  habit  of  slinking  her  foal,  she 
should  not  be  kept  in  the  same  lot  with  other  breed- 
ing mares ;  for,  though  it  may  seem  strange,  the  act 
of  one  mare  slinking  will  be  almost  certain  to  cause' 
the  others  to  do  the  same.  This  is  the  result  of  sym- 
pathy—  some  writers  say  of  imagination.  But  I 
rely  for  its  explanation  on  that  great  sympathy 
whose  delicate  and  mysterious  chain  binds  not  only 
the  different  organs  of  the  same  animal,  but  reaches 
out  even  to  others  of  the  same  species,  and  even  of 
different  species,  particularly  if  in  close  contact ;  so 
that  an  impression  made  on  one  does  not  stop  with 
itself,  bat  finds  a  response  in  the  others.  The  ner- 
vous system  is  the  medium  through  which  this  sym 
pathy  acts,  and  as  this  is  always  exalted  in  its  sensi- 


.        157 

bilities  during  pregnancy,  we  might  reasonably  ex- 
pect such  a  result  as  abortion  from  sympathy.  Imag- 
ination, indeed,  may  produce  abortion,  but  by  an 
entirely  similar  impression  on  the  nervous  system  to 
that  produced  by  fright.  Hysteria  is  a  disease  of  a 
nervous,  spasmodic  character,  generally  resulting 
from  the  sympathy  of  the  uterus,  or  womb,  with 
other  organs,  especially  the  stomach.  The  nervous 
system  here  is  the  medium  through  which  the  mor- 
bid impression  is  transmitted,  and  this  peculiar  organ 
is  susceptible  of  being  affected  even  by  mental  im- 
pressions. 

An  acquaintance,  a  large  breeder,  had  several 
mares  slink  their  foals  the  same  night.  I  have  read 
of  several  similar  instances.  Three  cases,  which  fell 
under  my  observation,  were  caused  by  the  owner 
purchasing  a  mare  in  the  habit  of  slinking.  The 
first  year,  at  Christmas,  she  and  three  others  aborted, 
and  the  next  year  five.  The  third  year,  the  habitual 
aborter  was  separated  from  the  others  and  followed 
her  usual  habit,  but  all  the  others  went  to  their  term, 
as  they  did  ever  after. 


168 


CLOSING    REMARKS. 


Kow,  dear  reader,  a  word  with  jou,  and  I  am 
done.  I  have  endeavored,  in  writing  the  system,  to 
fully  explain  it,  so  that  none  need  go  astray  ;  but  it 
must  be  remembered,  in  handling  wild  and  vicious 
horses,  you  have  different  dispositions  to  contend, 
against.  '  Every  one  who  understands  the  true  phi- 
losophy of  horsemanship,  knows  when  we  have  a 
horse  that  is  high  mettled,  wild,  and  lively,  we  can 
train  him  to  our  will  in  a  very  short  time,  for  they 
are  generally  quick  to  learn,  and  always  ready  to 
obey.  But  there  is  another  kind  that  are  of  a  stub- 
born or  vicious  disposition,  and  although  they  are  not 
wild,  requiring  no  taming  in  the  sense  that  is  generally 
understood,  they  are  just  as  ignorant  as  a  wild  horse,  if 
not  more  so,  and  need  to  be  educated  just  as  much. 
And  in  order  to  have  them  obey  quickly,  it  is  neces- 
sary that  they  should  be  made  to  fear  their  masters  ; 
for  in  order  to  obtain  perfect  obedience  from  any 
horse,  we  must  first  have  him  fear  us,  for  our 
motto  is,  "Fear,  love,  and  obey,"  and  we  must  have 
the  fulfillment  of  the  first  two,  before  we  can  expect 
the  latter ;  and  it  is  by  my  philosophy  of  creating 
fear,  love,  and  confidence,  that  I  govern  to  my  will 
any  kind  of  horse  whatever.  Then  in  order  to  take 
horses  as  I  find  them,  or  more  particularly  if  they 


169 

are  of  a  stubborn  or  mulish  disposition — if  he  lays 
back  his  ears  as  you  approach  him,  or  turns  his  heels 
to  kick  you  —  he  has  not  the  regard  or  fear  of  man 
that  he  should  have,  to  enable  you  to  handle  him 
quickly  and  easily.  In  such  cases,  give  him  a  few 
sharp  cuts  with  the  whip  about  the  legs,  pretty  close 
to  the  body.  It  will  crack  keen,  as  it  plies  around 
his  legs,  and  the  crack  of  the  whip  will  effect  him  as 
much  as  the  stroke.  Beside,  one  sharp  cut  about 
the  legs  will  effect  them  more  than  two  or  three  over 
the  back,  the  skin  or  inner  part  of  the  legs,  or  about 
the  flank,  being  thinner  and  more  tender  than  on  his 
back.  But  I  do  not  whip  him  much — just  enough 
to  scare  him.  It  is  not  because  I  want  to  hurt  the 
horse  that  I  whip  him,  I  only  do  it  to  scare  the  bad 
disposition  out  of  him.  But"  whatever  you  do,  do 
quickly,  sharply,  and  with  a  good  deal  of  force,  but 
always  without  anger.  If  you  are  going  to  scare  him 
at  all,  you  must  do  it  at  once;  never  go  into  a 
pitched  battle  with  your  horse,  and  whip  him  until 
he  is  mad,  and  will  fight  you.  You  had  better  not 
touch  him  at  all ;  for  you  will  establish,  instead  of 
fear  and  regard,  a  feeling  of  resentment,  hatred,  and 
ill-will.  It  will  do  him  no  good,  but  an  injury,  to 
strike  a  blow,  unless  you  can  scare  him  ;  but  if  you 
succeed  in  scaring  him,  you  can  whip  him  without 
making  him  mad,  for  fear  and  anger  never  exist  to- 
gether in  the  horse  ;  and  as  soon  as  one  is  visible, 
you  will  find  that  the  other  has  disappeared.  As 
soon  as  you  have  frightened  him  so  that  he  will 


160 

stand  up  straiglit,  and  pay  some  attention  to  yon,  ap- 
proach him  again  and  caress  him  a  good  deal  more 
•than  you  have  whipped  him ;  then  you  will  excite 
two  controlling  passions  of  his  nature  —  love  and 
fear  —  and  then  he  will  fear  and  love  you  too,  and 
as  soon  as  he  learns  what  to  do,  he  will  quickly  obey. 
With  these  remarks  upon  the  principles  of  my 
theory,  I  have  endeavored  to  teach  yoa  how  to  put 
them  in  practice,  and  all  of  the  instructions  written 
you  may  rely  on  as  having  been  proven  practically 
by  my  own  experiments ;  and  knowing  from  expe- 
rience just  what  obstacles  I  have  met  with  in  hand- 
ling bad  horses,  I  have  tried  to  anticipate  them  for 
your  good,  and  assist  you  in  surmounting  them,  by 
commeucirig  with  the  first  steps  taken  with  the  colt, 
and  accompanying  you  through  the  whole  task  of 
breaking. 


161 


SIGNS  OF  DISEASE  IN  THE  HORSE. 

The  horse  being  unable  to  describe  to  us  his  feel- 
ings, and  tell  us  the  seat  of  his  pain,  we  are  com- 
])elled  to  rely  on  such  signs  and  symptoms  as  we  can 
discover,  by  various  means,  to  determine  the  nature 
of  his  ailments.  A  few  of  the  more  common  symp- 
toms, or  signs  of  disease,  will  now  be  considered. 
But  to  determine  exactly  the  character  of  any  par- 
tic  alar  case  of  disease,  the  combination  of  symptoms 
present  will  have  to  be  considered.  In  this  article, 
however,  important  landmarks  are  presented,  which 
may  be  useful  in  guiding  to  correct  conclusions. 
Tlie  Pulse. 

The  pulse  of  a  medium-sized,  healthy  horse  beats 
about  forty  per  minute.  The  pulse  of  a  small  horse 
may  be  a  few  more,  or  of  a  larger  one,  a  beat  or  two 
less.  Age  decreases  the  pulse  slightly.  Any  con- 
siderable increase  of  the  pulse  over  forty  per  minute 
indicates  fever  or  inflammation,  and  other  symptoms 
must  be  looked  for  to  determine  the  particular  local- 
ity of  the  disease.  When  great  weakness  ensues, 
the  pulse  becomes  fluttering. 

Xlie  ]?Iembi*a,iie  of  the  ]\^ose. 

This,  in  health,  is  of  a  light  pink  color;  in  fever 
or  inflammation,  it  is  red.     If  of  the  lunsrs  or  air- 


162 

passages,  it  is  more  deeply  colored,  and  specked  with 
brown  mucus.  In  the  very  last  stage  of  most  dis- 
eases, when  death  is  about  taking  place,  the  mem- 
brane of  the  nose  becomes  of  a  dark,  leaden,  or  livid 
color.  In  glanders  it  is  of  a  light  blue  and  reddish 
color,  with  specks  of  ulceration  over  it  In  scarlet 
fever  it  is  covered  with  scarlet  spots. 

Tlie  Ears, 

In  disease,  lose  their  erectness  and  quickness  of 
motion,  and  become  dull,  loose  and  fallen;  falling 
forward  if  the  head  is  down,  and  backward  if  it  is 
raised,  in  all  diseases  affecting  the  system  generally. 
The  ears  are  cold  in  inflammation  of  the  lungs  and 
pleurisy,  slightly  so  in  other  diseases,  as  colic,  etc. 

Xlie  Eyes. 

Weeping  of  the  eyes  is  observed  in  colds,  strangles, 
catarrhal  fever  and  glanders.  When  the  eyes  become 
glassy  in  the  advanced  stage  of  disease,  it  indicates 
that  death  is  about  to  take  place. 

The  iVIouth 

Is  hot  in  fevers  and  inflammations.  The  mouth 
and  tongue  are  clammy  and  offensive  in  severe  fevers. 

The  Breathing-. 

The  breathing  is  rapid  in  fevers ;  laborious  in  in- 
flammation of  the  lungs  ;  laborious,  short  and  catch- 
ing, in  pleurisy  ;  and  difficalt  in  thick-wind.  The 
nostrils  are  much  spread  in  inflammation  of  the  lungs 
and  pleurisy.  The  breath  is  hot.  Deep,  snoring 
breathing,  indicates  disease  of  the  brain. 


168 

The  Feet. 

Coldness  of  the  feet  indicates  inflammation  of  im- 
portant internal  organs,  as  the  lungs,  pleura,  bowels, 
bladder,  etc.  Heat  and  tenderness  of  the  feet  occur 
in  founder. 

The  Hair. 

The  hair  is  dry  and  staring  in  farcy,  glanders,  in- 
digestion, hide-bound  from  any  cause,  worms,  mange, 
consumption,  surfeit,  all  diseases  of  the  skin,  and 
starvation.  The  hair  comes  out  in  patches  in  mange 
and  in  spots  in  surfeit. 

The  Skin. 

Heat  of  the  skin  is  one  of  the  principal  signs  of 
external  local  inflamuiation  ;  it  also  shows  the  pres- 
ence of  some  fevers  of  a  general  character.  A  yel- 
lowness about  the  mouth,  eyes  and  nose,  shows 
jaundice  or  inflammation  of  the  liver.  Eedness  of 
the  skin  of  the  heels  is  a  forerunner  of  grease  or 
scratches.  Dryness  and  huskiness  of  the  skin  and 
hair  indicate  constitutional  derangement,  either  of  a 
chronic  character,  or  it  may  be  some  acute  disease 
already  present  or  just  coming  on,  as  pleurisy  or 
inflammation  of  the  lungs,  m  which  the  skin  of  the 
legs  is  cool  or  cold  throughout. 
The  l>uiig:. 

The  appearance  of  the  horse's  dung  shows  the  con- 
dition of  his  digestion.  The  dung  very  offensive, 
like  that  of  the  hog  or  human,  indicates  a  want  of 
action  in  the  absorbent  vessels  of  the  bowels,  which 


164 

is  a  form  of  indigestion.     The  dung-balls  are  slimj 
in  glanders,  farc}^  and  worms. 

The  Heater. 

The  nrine  of  the  horse  undergoes  very  great  chan- 
ges of  quantity,  color  and  thickness,  when  the  animal 
is  in  perfect  health.  Stopping  of  the  urine,  or  when 
it  passes  only  a  little  at  a  time,  and  that  attended 
with  great  straining,  indicates  stricture,  inflammation 
of  the  kidneys  or  bladder.  Diabetes  is  told  by  the 
composition  of  the  urine  and  the  quantity ;  bloody 
water  by  its  being  mixed  with  blood. 

The  flanks  heave  in  inflammation  of  the  lungs, 
pleura,  and  bowels.  They  are  tucked  up  in  glanders, 
farcy,  indigestion,  jaundice,  and  other  diseases  in 
which  digestion  is  impaired.  A  kernel  will  be  felt 
in  the  inside  of  the  loose  skin  of  the  flank,  in  the 
groin,  in  mange.     The  flanks  throb  in  thumps. 

Drooping  of  the  head  is  a  sign  present  in  a  great 
variety  of  diseases,  and  of  opposite  characters. — 
When  it  is  observed,  other  symptoms  should  be 
looked  for.  It  is  most  marked  and  perfect  in  diseases 
of  the  brain. 

In  flatulent  colic  the  horse  lies  down  carefully, 
rolls,  and  tries  to  keep  on  his  back.  He  then  gets 
up  quick.  In  spasmodic  colic  he  lies  down  quick, 
rolls  over  quickly  several  times,  and  gets  up,  or  he 
may  only  rise  on  his  hips  and  sit  for  awhile,  and  then 


165 

roll  again,  or  get  up.     In  inflammation  of  the  bowels 
lie  lies  down  carefully,  and  lies  stretched  out,  and 
paws  or  strikes  with  his  four  feet. 
Standing:  Still. 

In  locked-jaw,  the  horse  stands  wide,  and  fixed  as 
a  statue.  In  inflammation  of  the  lungs  he  stands 
with  his  head  inclining  and  his  fore  feet  forward,  and 
does  not  want  to  move ;  and  if  he  lies  down,  he  gets 
up  instantly.  In  pleurisy  the  same  way,  but  may 
lie  down  for  a  time. 

Pointing:  Tv^ith  the  IVose. 

The  horse  points  with  his  nose  to  the  flanks,  in 
inflammation  of  the  bowels  and  colic ;  and  turns  his 
neck  carefully  and  looks  at  his  side,  but  does  not  put 
his  nose  to  the  body,  in  pleurisy.  In  inflammation 
of  the  foot  or  acute  founder,  he  points  his  nose  to 
the  foot. 

Pointing  the  fore  feet  indicates  atrophy  of  the 
muscles  of  the  shoulder,  called  sweeny.  Pointing 
first  one  and  then  the  other,  is  a  symptom  of  chest- 
founder,  or  rheumatism.  Dragging  ,  the  fore  foot 
shows  dislocation  of  the  shoulder-joint. 

Staggering,  in  most  diseases,  as  colic,  for  example, 
indicates  approaching  death.  It  is  a  symptom  of 
hysterics,  palsy,  and  poisoning  with  narcotics. 

Straddling  is  a  symptom  of  inflammation  of  the 
kidneys,  bladder,  and  strain  of  the  back. 


166 

Stiffness  in  walking  occurs  in  big-head,  farcy,  foun- 
der, lung  fever,  pleurisy,  hysterics  and  rheumatism. 

Twitching  of  the  skin  on  the  side  occurs  in  pleurisy. 

Delirium  occurs  in  inflammation  of  the  brain,  ver- 
tigo, apoplexy  and  stomach  staggers. 

Drying  up  of  the  perspiration,  or  sweat,  very  sud- 
denly, when  the  horse  is  being  driven  or  worked,  is 
an  indication  that  he  is  about  taking  pleurisy  or  in- 
flammation of  the  lungs,  or  some  other  severe  form 
of  inflammation. 


167 


THE  OLD  ENGLISH 

MYSTERIOUS  HORSE  FARRIER. 

nn.    TIUBALL, 

Offers  his  valuable  work  o^  the  Horse  to  the 
citizens  of  this  country — all  comprised  ia  this  one 
copy  of  88  recipes. .  The  old  Doctor  has  had  forty 
years'  practice  in  the  different  diseases  of  the  horse, 
and  his  success  has  induced  him  to  offer  the  result 
of  his  experience  to  the  public. 


RECIPES. 

No.  1.  Fistula  and  Poll  Evil  before  breaking. — 
Rowell  from  the  bottom  to  the  top  of  the  swelling 
with  tape,  wet  the  rowel  with  tincture  cantharides 
every  third  day.  Move  the  rowels  every  morning, 
washing  them  clean  with  soap  and  water.  Leave 
them  in  until  the  swelling  has  gone  down,  then  draw 
out  and  the  cure  is  performed.  Bleed  one  gallon 
when  the  operation  is  performed. 

No.  2.  After  Breaking — Rowel  from  the  top  of  the 
pipe  down  through  the  pipe,  then  bleed,  and  anoint 
the  rowels  with  Blue  Ointment  every  day  until  it  runs 
a  bloody  matter.     This  is  never  known  to  fail. 

No,  3.  Blue  Ointment. — Take  half  an  ounce  of 
verdigris,  one  ounce  of  blue  vitriol,  four  ounces  of 
ointment  of  rosin,  one  ounce  spirits  of  turpentine, 
8 


168 

grind  all  fine,  mix  well  with  one  ponnd  lard,  and  it 
is  fit  for  use.  Common  rosin  will  do,  if  the  ointment 
is  not  convenient. 

No.  4.  The  Hcoks,  or  Weak  Eyes, — Kowel  in  the 
jaw,  or  under  the  eyes,  then  bleed.  Apply  the  eye 
lotion  every  third  d^,  with  a  feather.  Move  the 
rowels  every  morning.  Leave  them  in  for  fifteen  or 
twenty  days ;  feed  on  corn. 

No.  5.  Eye  Lotion. — Take  one  pint  of  linseed  oil, 
add  two  ounces  of  gum  camphor,  one  ounce  of  ether. 
Shake  it  well,  and  it  is  fit  for  use.  This  cures  all 
weak  eyes  that  are  curable. 

No.  6.  Spavin  and  Ringworm  Ointment. — Take 
two  ounces  cantharides,  one  ounce  gum  ophorboum, 
two  aunces  turpentine,  one  ounce  tincture  of  iodine, 
and  three  drachms  corrosive  sublimate.  Grind  all 
fine,  and  mix  with  two  pounds  of  lard. 

No.  7.  Hoof  Bound. — Have  horse  shod  with  shoes 
narrow  at  the  heel.  Have  them  made  with  calks  one 
inch  long,  flaring  out  from  bottom  to  the  top.  Use 
the  Hoof  Ointment  every  third  day. 

No.  8.  Hoof  Ointment. — Take  half  a  pound  of 
lard,  and  four  ounces  rosin.  Heat  them  over  a  slow 
fire  until  melted,  take  the  pot  ofi*  the  fire,  add  one 
ounce  of  pulverized  verdigris,  stir  well  to  prevent  it 
running  over.  When  partly  cool,  add  two  ounces 
turpentine.  Apply  it  from  the  hair  down  one  inch. 
Work  the  horse  all  the  time. 

No.  9.  Big  Leg. — Apply  the  Liquid  Blister  every 
third  hour  until  it  blisters.     In  three  hours  grease  the 


169 

leg  witli  linseed  oil.  In 'six  days  wash  it  clean  with 
soap  and  water.  Kepeat  every  six  days  until  the 
swelling  goes  down.  If  there  should  be  any  callous 
left,  apply  the  Spavin  Ointment. 

No.  10.  Liquid  Blister. — Take  half  pint  linseed 
oil,  one  pint  spirits  turpentine,  and  four  ounces  aqua 
ammonia;  shake  well,  and  it  is  fit  for  use.  Apply 
every  third  hour  until  it  blisters. 

No.  11.  Hoof  Evil  or  Thrush. — Physic  and  bleed, 
then  poultice  the  foot  with  boiled  turnips.  Eenew 
every  twenty  four  hours,  for  three  times,  then  apply 
the  Blue  Ointment  every  third  day,  merely  anointing 
the  sore  parts.  Wash  clean  before  applying.  Keep 
the  horse  out  of  the  mud  and  wet.  This  will  never 
fail  to  cure  in  four  or  five  weeks. 

No.  12.  Founder. — Bleed  in  the  neck  until  the 
horse  staggers  or  falls  down.  Tarn  up  his  feet,  and 
fill  them  with  boiling  lard.  Give  him  a  physic-ball, 
and  foment  his  legs  with  hot  water  every  five  or  six 
hours.  Give  him  a  mash  of  scalded  bran.  This  Will 
cure  in  twenty-four  hours. 

No.  13.  Lung  Fever. — Symptoms  :  The  horse  is 
taken  suddenly  ill,  either  after  being  taken  from  the 
stable,  or  on  returning  to  it.  He  gives  evidence 
of  pain  by  looking  around  at  his  side.  He  never 
offers  to  lie  down ;  his  nostrils  are  distended ;  he 
breathes  hard ;  his  chest  is  sore,  or  over  his  lungs ; 
he  cannot  bear  you  to  press  your  hand  hard  on  his 
chest;  very  dry,  but  cannot  drink. 

Cure. — Bleed  three  gallons.     Take  one  ounce  of 


170 

lavender,  two  ounces  spirits  nitre,  half  pint  water ; 
drench  him.  Repeat  every  four  hours  until  better. 
Blanket  him  as  warm  as  possible.  Then  apply  the 
liquid  blister  all  over  the  chest  opposite  the  lungs, 
every  third  hour  until  it  blisters.  If  he  is  not  better 
in  six  houi*s,  repeat  the  bleeding,  and  inject  with 
the  following  clyster :  half-gallon  warm  water,  half- 
pint  linseed  oil,  and  a  small  handful  salt.  Never 
physic,  or  he  will  die. 

No.  14.  Button  Farcy. — Symptoms  :  swelled  legs, 
and  running  sores  on  the  legs. 

Cure. — Bleed  largely,  then  physic ;  then  give  the 
following  balls  or  pills,  in  forty-eight  hours  after  the 
physic-  has  operated.  Take  two  ounces  gentian,  and 
four  ounces  ginger ;  make  this  in  a  paste  with  honey 
or  molasses.  Divide  it  into  ten  parts,  add  to  each 
part  ten  grains  arsenic.  Roll  it  in  paper,  and  give 
one,  morning  and  evening,  until  it  physics,  or  makes 
him  slobber,  then  omit,  and  give  him  one  ounce  of 
laudanum.  Feed  on  green  or  light  food.  Wash  the 
sores  clean,  and  apply  the  Blue  Ointment  every  other 
day.  K  there  should  be  any  swelling  left  in  the  legs, 
apply  the  General  Liniment  every  day  or  two. 

No.  15.  Water  Farcy. — Symptoms :  The  horse  is 
dull  and  loses  his  appetite,  and  swells  along  the  body 
or  chest,  and  between  the  fore  legs. 

Cure. — Rowel  in  the  breast  and  along  each  side 
of  chest  as  far  as  the  swelling  goes.  Leave  the  row- 
els in  until  the  swelling  goes  down.  Give  a  sppon- 
fa]  of  cleansing  powders  morning  and  night. 


171 

No.  16.  Nasal  Gleet^  or  running  at  the  nose,  or  to 
dry  up  distemper. — Take  half  a  pound  of  alum,  half 
pound  of  rosin,  half  a  pound  of  blue  vitriol,  four 
ounces  of  ginger,  and  enough  fenugreek  to  scent ; 
grind  all  fine.  Give  the  horse  a  spoonful,  two  or 
three  times  a  day.  This  will  cure  all  discharges  or 
distempers,  if  not  glanders. 

No.  17.  Chronic  Cough. — Take  powdered  squills 
one  ounce,  ginger  two  ounces,  cream  tartar  one  ounce, 
mix  well,  and  give  a  spoonful  each  morning  and 
evening,  in  wet  bran.  This  is  good  after  hard  riding 
or  driving.  It  cures  all  coughs  and  colds,  and  will 
prevent  the  lungs  from  swelling. 

No.  18.  Cleansing  Powder-^. — Take  of  ginger  two 
ounces,  four  ounces  fenugreek,  one  ounce  black  anti- 
mony, and  two  ounces  rhubarb.  Grind  all  fine,  mix 
it  well,  and  it  is  fit  for  use.  Give  a  large  spoonful, 
morning  and  night.  This  is  the  best  condition  pow- 
der ever  used.  It  gives  a  good  appetite  and  fine 
coat,  and  life  to  the  animal. 

No.  19.  Fits. — Symptoms  :  The  horse  commences 
jerking  his  head,  and  falls  down  ;  in  a  short  time  he 
will  get  up,  and  is  apparently  well. 

Cure. — Give  two  ounces  of  the  tincture  of  asa- 
foetida  every  morning  for  ten  days.  Tie  the  gum  on 
his  bit,  and  make  him  wear  it  for  six  or  eight  days. 
He  will  never  have  a  fit  after  the  first  dose. 

No.  20.      Jaundice    Yellow   Water.  —  Symptoms  : 
The  hair  in  the  mane  and  tail  gets  loose,  the  white 
of  his  eye  turns  yellow,  and  the  bars  of  his  mouth ; 
7* 


172 

he  refuses  to  eat,  and  limps  in  his  right  fore  leg 
generally. 

Cure. —  Physic,  but  never  bleed;  then  every 
morning  give  him  one  drachm  of  calomel  in  one 
ounce  of  spirits  of  camphor,  for  eight  or  ten  days, 
also  give  him  a  dose  of  the  Cleansing  Powders  every 
night.     This  is  a  sure  sure. 

No.  21.  Nicking  Balsam. —  Take  a  half  pound  of 
fresh  butter,  add  to  this  one  ounce  oil  origanum,  and 
half  an  ounce  tincture  of  iodine.  Mix  well,  and  it 
is  fit  for  use.  This  is  used  on  the  tail  after  nicking, 
and  on  bruises,  saddle  galls,  corks,  and  all  kinds  of 
sprains  and  rheumatism. 

No.  22.  Thumps  or  Palpitation  of  the  Heart. — 
Symptoms.  The  horse  is  almost  exhausted,  breath- 
ing is  very  hard.  The  difference  between  thumps 
and  lung  fever  is  the  distress  of  the  heart,  which  you 
may  hear  flutter  at  a  distance  of  twenty  feet. 

Cure. —  Bleed  largely,  and  it  will  suddenly  stop. 
Dissolve  one  drachm  of  nitre  and  a  large  spoonful 
of  salt  in  half  a  pint  of  water.  Drench  three  times 
every  six  hours.     Do  not  work  the  horse  for  a  week. 

No.  23.  Shoulder  Jam^  or  Sweeny. —  Eowel  from 
the  top  of  the  shoulder  blade  down,  as  affected.  Put 
in  a  few  drops  tincture  cantharides  every  third  day. 
Move  the  rowels  every  day,  keeping  them  clean  with 
soap  and  water.  Keep  them  in  from  twenty  to  thirty 
days,  and  the  cure  is  performed. 

No.  24.     Stoppage  of  the  Urine. —  Symptoms:  Fre- 


173 

qaent  attempts  to  urinate,  looking  round  at  his  sides, 
lying  down,  rolling  and  stretching. 

Cure. —  Take  half  a  pound  hops,  three  drachms 
oil  of  camphor,  grind,  and  mix.  Mix  this  into  three 
pills.  Give  one  every  day,  with  a  drench  made  of  a 
small  teaspoonful  of  saltpetre  and  two  ounces  of 
water.     TKis  generally  cures. 

No.  25.  Physic  Ball. —  Take  two  ounces  aloes, 
one  ounce  turpentine,  and  an  ounce  of  flour.  Make 
into  a  paste  with  a  few  drops  of  water,  wrap  in  a 
paper,  and  give  with  a  bailing  iron. 

No.  26.  To  Remove  Waris. —  Cut  them  out  by  the 
roots,  and  if  they  bleed  much,  dissolve  one  grain  of 
nitrate  of  silver  in  two  ounces  of  water,  bathe,  and  it 
will  stop  immediately.  Then  apply  the  Blue  Oint- 
ment every  day  until  it  heals. 

No.  27.  Inflammation  of  the  Kidneys.  Sjjnipioms : 
The  horse  is  weak  across  the  back,  and  passes  urine 
very  often,  which  is  very  highly  colored. 

Cure. —  Bleed  one  gallon,  then  blister  across  the 
kidneys,  and  give  the  following  powder:  Two 
ounces  rosin,  one  ounce  of  hellebore,  one  ounce 
gentian.     Mix,  and  apply  the  Greneral  Liniment. 

No.  28.  Stifle  Sprains. —  If  it  has  never  been  out 
of  place,  bleed  two  gallons,  then  physic,  and  bathe 
with  hot  water  every  twenty-four  hours,  and  apply 
the  General  Liniment.  Will  cure  all  cases  in  ten  or 
twenty  days.     Never  put  on  the  stifle  shoe. 

No.  29.  Loss  of  Appetite. — Bleed  half  a  gallon, 
then  give  a  few  doses  of  Cleansing  Powders.     If  he 


174 

lacks  life,  tlien  give  him  a  few  drops  of  tlie  Eestora- 
tive  Liquid. 

No.  30.  Restorative  Liquid. —  This  will  give  life 
to  all  that  is  not  dead.  Tak  oil  of  cloves  one  ounce, 
oil  of  anise  one  ounce,  tincture  cantharides  one 
ounce,  tincture  asafoetida  two  ounces,  oil  rosemary 
one  ounce ;  shake  well,  and  it  is  fit  for  use';  give  ten 
or  fifteen  drops  in  a  bucket  of  water. 

Ko.  31.  Hoof  Liquid. — This  is  for  contracted  feet 
or  bruises  in  the  soles  of  the  feet,  or  after  joint 
sprains :  take  four  ounces  oil  of  spike,  four  ounces 
spirits  of  turpentine,  and  \  pint  linseed  oil;  shake 
well,  and  apply  over  the  crust  of  the  foot  every  day. 
This  will  remove  fever  and  soreness  of  the  foot,  and 
hoof  bound,  but  the  ointment  is  best. 

N'o.  32.  Oeneral  Liniment. — Take  half  a  pint  lin- 
seed oil,  half  a  pint  of  turpentine,  four  ounces  oil  of 
origanum  ;  shake  well,  and  it  is  fit  for  use.  This  is 
for  all  sprains  and  a  General  Liniment.  It  is  used  in 
the  different  diseases  spoken  of. 

ISTo.  33.  Sore  Mouth  or  Tongue. — First  take  his 
grain  from  him ;  then  take  half  an  ounce  of  alum, 
two  drachms  of  sugar  of  lead,  one  pint  vinegar,  and 
a  half  gallon  of  water,  open  the  mouth  and  swab  it 
out  with  this,  every  morning  and  night.  This  will 
cure  in  all  cases  in  five  or  six  days. 

Ko.  34.  Mange. —  Symptoms:  The  hair  will  rub 
off,  and  the  skin  break  oat  in  scabs. 

Cure. —  Physic  and  bleed  for  this  is  humor  in 
the  blood,  then  make  the  following  ointment,  and 


175 

grease  well  every  day  wherever  he  is  affected,  for 
three  or  four  days,  and  let  him  stand  in  the  sun. 
For  killing  .lice,  take  half  pound  of  sulphur,  two 
ounces  spirits  turpentine,  and  mix  well  with  three 
pounds  of  lard ;  do  not  let  him  get  wet ;  give  a  few 
doses  of  the  Cleansing  Powder. 

No.  35.  To  Stop  Blood. —  If  you  can  get  hold  of  the 
artery  or  vein,  tie  it  up.  If  not,  take  the  following  : 
Ten  grains  of  nitrate  of  silver  and  four  ounces  of 
water,  apply  to  the  wound,  and  it  will  stop  immedi- 
ately.    Apply  this  to  warts,  after  cutting  them  out. 

No.  36.  Chest  Founders. —  Symptoms:  Not  un- 
like lung  fever.  The  horse  is  stiff,  but  has  no  fever 
in  his  feet,  very  sore  in  his  chest,  inclines  to  stand 
very  wide  with  his  fore  legs. 

Cuke. —  Bleed,  physic,  and  rowel  in  the  breast, 
then  commence  bathing  his  breast  and  chest  witli 
hot  water  every  six  hours,  and  blanket  him.  This 
will  cure,  if  not  of  too  long  standing. 

No.  37.  Melanders  is  a  disease  of  the  feet  and 
pasterns.  It  commences  after  the  grease  heels. 
Symptoms  :    The  hair  stands  out. 

Cure. — Apply  the  Spavin  Ointment  every  six  days, 
for  two  or  three  times.  It  will  run  the  callous  off 
Then  apply  the  Blue  Ointment  until  well. 

No.  38.  Soap  Liniment^  for  sprains  and  swellings. 
Take  one  half  gallon  of  alcohol,  one  pint  soft  soap, 
four  ounces  spirits  of  camphor,  and  four  ounces 
spirits  turpentine,  stir  over  a  slow  fire.  This  is  cheap 
and  good  when  you  cannot  get  the  General  Liniment. 
*8 


176 

No.  89.  Opedeldoc, — Take  one  half  gallon  of  alco- 
liol,  two  ounces  gum  camphor,  and  one  half  an  ounce 
of  rosemary.  Heat  this  bj  setting  a  jar  or  pot  on 
the  stove.  Take  pure  castile  soap,  shave  it  thin,  and 
put  in  as  long  as  the  liquid  will  eat  it.    This  is  sure. 

No.  40.  Nerve  and  Bone  Ointment. —  To  one  quart 
clarified  neats  foot  oil,  add  two  ounces  oil  turpentine, 
four  ounces  oil  origanum,  and  one  pint  alcohol ;  shake 
it,  clean  with  red  sanders,  and  strain  it. 

No.  41.  Lock  Jaw. — Bleed  largely,  and  apply  chlo- 
roform to  the  nose  until  the  jaws  fly  open,  put  a  gag 
into  the  mouth,  and  give  two  ounces  tinct.  asafoetida 
every  six  hours,  and  a  dose  of  physic.  This  will 
cure,  if  there  is  any  cure. 

No.  42.  Heave  Powders  to  trade  on. —  Half  a  pound 
of  Spanish  brown,  and  half  a  pound  of  ginger ;  give 
a  teaspoonfal  three  times  a  day. 

No.  43.  Gravel  in  the  Foot.  —  If  it  is  of  long  stand- 
ing, poultice  the  foot  with  boiled  turnips,  or  any 
other  drawing  poultice,  until  it  draws,  then  dress 
with  Blue  Ointment  a  few  times.  If  there  is  much 
fever,  apply  the  Hoof  Liquid  for  a  few  times. 

No.  44.  In  Nicking^  if  much  swelling  follows,  bleed, 
and  use  the  Nicking  Balsam  every  other  day  on  the 
root  of  the  tail.  Never  apply  water  to  the  tail.  Let  it 
stay  up  four  weeks  ;  let  the  blood  dry,  and  rub  it  off, 
then  dock  and  put  in  the  pulleys  five  or  six  days. 

No.  45.  Cure  for  Colic. —  Take  two  ounces  sweet 
oil,  two  ounces  laudanum,  one  pint  warm  water, 
and  drench.    •  It  never  fails  while  there  is  life. 


177 

No.  46.  Big  Head. —  One  ounce  oil  origanum,  two 
ounces  sweet  oil,  two  ounces  aqua  ammonia,  two 
ounces  tincture  cantharides,  two  ounces  spirits  tur- 
pentine, and  one  ounce  oil  rosemary.  Give  one 
spoonful  saltpetre  every  third  day ;  rub  the  mixture 
in  twice  a  day. 

No.  47.  Bots. —  As  much  red  precipitate  as  will  lie 
on  a  ten  cent  piece ;  mix  with  dough,  and  make  into 
a  pilL     If  one  does  not  relieve,  repeat  in  an  hour. 

No.  48.  Gravel. —  Steep  half  a  pound  of  hops  in  a 
quart  of  hot  water,  give  it  as  hot  as  the  horse  can 
stand  it. 

No.  49.  To  Remove  the  Scum  from  the  Eye  in 
Twenty-four  Hours. —  Take  five  cents  worth  of  pul- 
verized lunar  caustic,  and  mix  well  with  one  ounce 
of  lard,  and  it  is  fit  for  use. 

No.  50.  Weak  Eyes. —  One  spoonful  of  honey,  two 
two  spoonfuls  fresh  butter,  one  spoonful  black  pep- 
per, and  the  yolk  of  an  Qgg.  Stew  it  for  fifteen  min- 
utes over  a  slow  fire,  and  strain  through  a  woolen 
cloth.     Apply  in  and  above  the  eye. 

No.  51.  Woijbnds. —  One  quart  of  alcohol,  one 
ounce  cayenne  pepper,  one  pint  spirits  turpentine. 
Shake  well,  and  it  is  fit  for  use. 

No.  52.  Scratches. —  Two  ounces  castile  soap,  two 
ounces  rosin,  one  ounce  lard,  two  ounces  copperas, 
and  white  of  an  Qgg ;  stew  it  for  fifteen  minutes,  and 
it  is  fit  for  use.  Bind  it  on  the  part  for  24  hours, 
then  wash  it  well,  and  the  cure  is  performed. 

No.  53.  Sweating  Liniment. —  Take  the  yolks  of 


178 

six  dozen  eggs,  and  one  pint  of  salt ;  beat  them  to- 
getlier  nntil  it  forms  a  paste ;  rnb  the  afiected  part 
well  with  the  paste,  leaving  it  from  four  to  six  hours ; 
wash  it  off  with  strong  salt  and  water,  as  hot  as  you 
can  put  it  on.'  Then  blanket  it  well  for  ten  hours. 
It  cures  all  sprains. 

No.  54  Dope  to  Trade  on,  —  One  ounce  of  black 
antimony,  mixed  with  an  ounce  of  cantharides.  A 
small  spoonful  twice  a  day  will  fatten  a  horse  in  ten 
days  to  trade  on. 

No.  56.  To  Remove  Callousness  hy  Absorption  in  a 
shorter  time  than  by  liniment.  One  ounce  of  alco- 
hol, and  one  ounce  of  pulverized  sal  ammonia ;  bathe 
the  leg  every  two  hours  ;  bind  the  leg  with  straw 
bands  from  the  hoof  to  the  top  of  the  callous,  fill  a 
sponge  with  the  liquid,  and  place  it  on  for  twenty- 
four  hours ;  for  spavin,  add  to  this  liquid  half  an 
ounce  of  cantharides. 

No.  56.  Fistula  after  Breaking. — Take  lye  from 
the  small  black  hickory  and  the  roots  of  the  prickly 
ash,  burnt  together ;  boil  down  to  potash ;  put  a  small 
portion  into  the  hole,  and  let  it  remain  four  or  five 
days ;  remove  it,  and  put  in  about  twenty  drops  of 
aqua  fortis. 

No.  57.  Salve  to  heal  wounds. — Take  a  piece  of 
poke  root  about  the  size  of  an  egg,  and  two  Indian 
turnips  gi-ound  fine,  and  stew  one  minute  with  a 
pound  of  lard.     Put  it  on  every  third  day. 

No.  58.  Fistula  or  Poll  Foil  before  breaking  or 
matter  is  formed.     Two  ounces  oil  of  turpentine,  two 


179 

ounces  venice  turpentine,  two  ounces  golden  tincture, 
one  ounce  oil  origanum,  and  half  a  pint  alcohol; 
mix  well,  and  apply  every  24  hours  for  three  times. 

No.  59.  Heaves. — Take  one  quart  sweet  milk, 
add  one  tablespoonful  oil  of  vitriol ;  take  lour  quarts 
of  mash  feed,  wet  the  same  with  one  half  the  pre- 
scription ;  next  day,  give  the  balance.  In  one  week 
repeat  the  prescription  ;  so  on  for  six  weeks. 

No.  60.  For  Curbs. — Take  benoidide  of  mercury 
three  drachms,  lard  two  ounces,  mix  it  well ;  clip  the 
hair  close,  just  the  size  of  the  enlargement,  rub  the 
ointment  on  with  the  finger.  In  three  or  four  days 
the  matter  which  oozes  from  the  enlargement  will 
form  a  thick  scab  ;  soften  with  fresh  lard  and  pick  it 
off;  rub  dry  with  the  hand,  and  apply  as  above. 
Five  or  six  applications  will  remove  an}^  curb.  For 
splints,  apply  in  the  same  manner. 

No.  61.  Mud  Fever  and  Cracked  j9ee?5.— Take 
equal  parts  lard,  gunpowder,  and  glass  ;  pulverize 
the  glass  and  powder  as  fine  as  flour,  and  make  into 
an  ointment;  wash  the  diseased  parts  with  castile 
soap  and  soft  water ;  rub  dry,  and  apply  the  ointment 
once  a  day  till  cured. 

No.  62.     Infallible   Cure  for  Ringhone  and  Spavin, 

Liquid  Ammonia 1  oz.,  9th. 

R.^d  Precipitate I  oz.,  8  h. 

White  Pine  Turpentine 1  oz  ,  3rd. 

Spanisli  Flies 1  oz.,  7ih. 

Origanum  Oil 1  oz.,  6th. 

Iodine 2  drachms,  5th. 

Corrosive  Sublimate 2  drachms,  4th 

Strong  Mercurial  Ointment 3X  oz-?  Ist^ 

Lard  33^  oz.,  honey  %  lb.,  gum  forbium 1  oz.,  2nd. 

7 


180 

The  reader  asks  wlij  this  recipe  is  written  in  such 
a  form.  It  is  prepared  jast  as  written  :  9  th  is  first 
placed  in  the  mortar ;  8th  is  next,  and  well  mixed 
with  9th ;  3rd  is  then  thoroughly  mixed  with  8th  and 
9th.  Thus  each  article  is  applied  separately  ;  and 
thoroughly  mixed.  7th  is  the  next,  and  so  on  until 
your  ointment  is  finished.  This  is  the  best  spavin 
and  ringbone  ointment  known.  Clip  the  hair,  and 
apply  the  same  as  for  curbs ;  remove  the  scale  with 
lard,  and  wash  with  castile  soap  and  soft  water. 
Kub  dry,  and  apply  again. 

No.  63.  Physic  Ball  for  Horses. —  Cape  aloes  from 
six  to  ten  drachms,  castile  soap  one  drachm,  spirits 
of  wine  one  drachm,  syrup  to  form  the  ball.  If  mer- 
curial physic  be  wanted,  add  from  one-half  a  drachm 
to  one  drachm  of  calomel.  Previous  to  physicing  a 
horse,  and  diiring  its  operation,  he  should  be  fed  on 
bran  mashes,  allowed  plenty  of  chilled  water,  and 
have  exercise.  Physic  is  always  useful ;  it  is  neces- 
sary to  be  administered  in  almost  every  disease.  It 
improves  digestion,  and  gives  strength  to  the  lacteals 
by  cleansing  the  intestines,  and  unloading  the  liver, 
and,  if  the  animal  is  properly  fed,  will  improve  his 
strength  and  condition  in  a  remarkable  degree. 
Physic,  except  in  urgent  cases,  should  be  given  in  the 
morning,  and  on  an  empty  stomach  ;  and  if  required 
to  be  repeated,  a  week  should  intervene  between  each 
dose.  Before  giving  a  horse  a  ball,  see  that  it  is  not 
too  hard  or  too  large.  Cattle  medicine  is  always  a 
given  as  a  drench. 


181 

No.  64  Physic  for  Cattle.  —  Cape  aloes,  fom 
drachms  to  one  ounce.  Epsom  salts,  four  to  six 
ounces,  powdered  ginger  three  drachms.  Mix,  and 
give  in  a  quart  of  gruel.  For  calves,  one-third  of 
this  will  be  a  dose. 

No.  Q6.  Tonic  for  Horses  and  Cattle. — Sulphate  of 
copper  one  ounce  to  twelve  drachms,  white  sugar 
one-half  ounce.  Mix,  and  divide  into  eight  powders, 
and  give  one  or  two  daily  in  the  animal's  food. 

No.  &Q.  Cordial  for  Horses  and  Cattle. — Powdered 
opium  one  drachm,  ginger  powdered  two  drachms, 
allspice  powdered  three  drachms,  caraway  seeds  pow- 
dered four  drachms.  Make  into  a  ball  with  molasses, 
or  give  as  a  drench  in  gruel.  For  Oripes  and  Hove 
in  Cattle,  add  to  the  above  a  teacupful  of  spirits  of 
oil ;  and  repeat  every  two  hours  until  the  animal  is 
found  to  be  relieved. 

No.  67.  Diuretic  Ball. — Hard  soap  and  common 
turpentine  each  four  drachms,  oil  of  juniper  twenty 
drops,  powdered  rosin  to  form  the  ball.  For  Dropsy^ 
Water  Farcy,  Broken  Wind,  or  Febrile  Diseases,  add  to 
the  above  allspice  and  ginger,  of  each,  two  drachms. 
Make  four  balls,  and  give  one,  morning  and  evening. 

No.  68.  Diuretic  Powders. —  Powdered  rosin  and 
nitre,  each  four  ounces  ;  mix,  and  divide  into  twelve 
parts.     Give  one  daily. 

No.  69.  Alterative  or  Condition  Powders.  —  Rosin 
and  nitre,  each  two  ounces,  levigated  antimony  one 
ounce.     Mix  for  eight  or  ten  doses,  and  give  one  at 


182 

night  and  morning.  Wlien  this  is  to  be  given  to 
cattle,  add  glanber  salts  one  pound. 

Ko.  70.  Fever  Ball. — Cape  aloes  two  ounces,  nitre 
four  ounces,  molasses  to  form  a  mass.  Divide  into 
twelve  balls,  and  give  one,  morning  and  evening,  till 
the  bowels  are  relaxed,  then  give  No.  QS  or  72. 

No.  71.  Sedative  and  Worm  Ball.  —  Powdered 
white  hellebore  one-half  drachm,  linseed  powdered 
one-half  ounce.  If  necessary,  make  into  a  ball  with 
molasses.  This  ball  is  specific  for  weed,  in  horses 
and  cattle. 

No.  72.  Anodyne  Ball.  —  Opium  one  drachm,  cam- 
phor two  drachms,  ginger  powder  one  and  a  half 
drachms  ;  molasses  to  form  a  ball.  Give  night  and 
morning  after  the  bowels  are  opened,  in  tetanus  or 
lock-jaw.  With  the  addition  of  powdered  catechu 
two  drachms ;  this  forms  an  excellent  cure  for  diar- 
rhoea or  purging. 

No.  73.  Cordial  Astringent  Drench  for  Diarrhoea), 
Purging  and  Scouring. —  Tincture  of  opium  one-half 
ounce,  allspice  two  and  a  half  drachms,  powdered 
caraways  one-half  ounce;  catechu  powders  tw©' 
drachms,  strong  ale  or  gruel  one  pint.  G  ive  every 
morning  till  the  purging  ceases.  This  will  make 
four  doses. 

No.  74.  Blister  Ointment. —  Hog's  lard  four  ounces^ 
oil  of  turpentine  and  Spanish  flies,  each  one  ounce ; 
mix.  This  ointment  is  strong  enough  for  every 
purpose. 

No.   76.  Powder  of  Angleberries.  —  After   cutting 


183 

them  off,  when  they  exist  in  clusters,  sprinkle  them 
daily  with  equal  part  of  muriate  of  ammonia  and 
powdered  savin. 

No.  76.  Fever  Powder  for  Horses. —  Nitre  from  one 
half  ounce  to  one  ounce,  camphor  and  tartar  emetic 
each  from  one  to  two  drachms,  powder  and  mix.  To 
be  used  after  the  bowels  have  been  opened. 

No.  77.  Astringent  B  all  for  Horses. —  Opium  from 
one  half  to  one  drachm,  ginger  one  and  one  h^lf 
drachms,  pre2:)ared  chalk  three  drachms,  flour  two 
drachms.  Powder  and  make  it  into  a  ball  with 
molasses. 

No.  78.  Stomachic  Purgative  Ball^for  thin,  ill-con- 
ditioned  Horses. — Aloes  one  and  one  half  ounces,  rhu- 
barb two  drachms,  calomel  one  drachm,  ginger  one 
and  one  half  drachms,  oil  caraway  ten  drops,  castile 
soap  two  drachms ;  molasses  sufl&cient  to  make  it 
into  a  ball. 

No.  79.  For  Fermenting  Swollen  or  Stocked  Legs. — 
Procure  one  pound  of  smartweed,  place  the  same  in 
an  eight  gallon  kettle  —  add  four  gallons  of  soft 
water,  place  over  a  slow  fire  and  boil  down  to  two 
gallons,  strain  the  solution  into  another  iron  or 
tin  vessel  —  get  one  pound  of  alum,  place  in  a 
mortar  and  pulverize  fine ;  sift  the  alum  into  the 
liquid,  again  place  over  the  fire,  and  stir  until  well 
dissolved.  Now  wind  the  limb  tight  with  a  hay 
rope,  pour  one  pint  of  the  solution  in  at  the  top  of 
the  bandage  when  blood  warm.  Kepeat  every  hour 
for  forty-eight  hours.     This  is  the  best  fermentation 


184 

used.  It  will  remove  all  inflammation  and  swelling 
in  two  days.  If  there  is  a  cut  or  wound  after  ferment- 
ing, ajiply  Blue  Ointment  Ko.  3  until  healed.  In  case 
of  strain  or  bruise,  apply  the  General  Liniment. 

No.  80.  For  Distemper. —  Oil  of  origanum  one 
ounce,  oil  cedar  one  ounce,  tincture  cantharides  one 
ounce,  olive  oil  four  ounces.  Shake  well  and  bathe 
the  throat  and  glands  morning  and  evening  for  six 
daj^s,  rub  in  well  with  the  hand  ;  he  will  throw  out 
freely,  and  the  cure  is  performed. 

No.  81.  To  Remove  Splint. —  Croton  oil  half  an 
ounce,  quick  silver  one  drachm,  clip  the  hair  close, 
the  size  of  the  enlargement.  Shake  the  bottle  well 
or  it  will  not  mix,  ( the  quicksilver  being  so  much 
heavier  than  the  oil,)  immediately  after  the  bottle 
is  well  shaken,  take  two  or  three  drops  on  the  ends 
of  your  lingers  and  rub  on  the  point  of  the  enlarge- 
ment. Be  careful  of  getting  it  on  the  other  parts 
of  the  leg,  for  you  must  remember  it  is  one  of  the 
most  powerful  blisters  known.  In  six  or  eight  days 
after  applying  it  to  the  enlargement,  wash  off  with 
castile  soap  and  warm  water;  do  not  pick  the  bunch 
off  ;  let  it  loosen  and  work  off  gradually.  After  it 
comes  out,  apply  the  Blue  Ointment  once  a  day  until 
healed. 

No.  82.  For  Worms  in  Horses. — Take  ten  grains 
of  arsenic,  place  m  a  short  ounce  vial  with  mouth- 
piece large,  take  on  the  point  of  your  pocket  knife 
about  as  much  as  would  lay  on  half  of  a  three  cent 
piece,  and  mix  in  two  quarts  of  dampened  shorts,  in 


185 

two  or  three  days  repeat  the  same,  and  so  on,  for  ten 
or  twelve  days.  This  recipe  will  effectually  destroy  all 
worms  in  horses. 

No.  83.  The  Best  Spavin  Preparation  Known. — 
Spirits  turpentine,  half  ounce,  oil  origanum  half 
ounce,  citric  acid,  half  ounce,  oil  wormwood  half 
ounce,  Spanish  fly  to  thicken,  clip  the  hair,  scarify, 
and  apply  about  the  thickness  of  a  piece  of  note 
paper,  let  it  remain  without  touching  until  it  stops 
running,  then  carefully  wash  with  soft  water  and 
soap.     Let  the  horse  remain  idle  for  four  weeks. 

l!^o.  84.  For  the  Eye. —  Calomel  three  scruples, 
olive  oil  one  ounce,  belladonna  three  scruples ;  bathe 
with  an  eye  brush  or  feather  once  a  day  until  cured. 

No.  8^.  For  Windgalls  and  Soft  Puffs.  — Oil  origa- 
num four  ounces,  oil  hemlock,  one  ounce,  oil  laven- 
der, one  ounce,  oil  wormwood,  two  ounces,  oil  spike, 
one  ounce,  sweet  oil,  eight  ounces ;  apply  to  parts 
affected  morning  and  evening,  and  rub  well  with  the 
hand. 

No.  86.  For  Thrush. — Poultice  the  foot  with  turnip 
poultice  for  twelve  hours,  wash  clean  with  warm 
water,  then  with  a  stiff  feather  apply  iodine  forte 
around  the  frog  once  a  day,  for  three  or  four  days, 
after  which  apply  spirits  of  salts  two  or  three  times. 
In  one  week  the  cure  is  performed. 

No.  87.  Hoof  Rot. — Get  a  strong  solution  of  white 
oak  bark,  then  add  equal  parts  of  tobacco  and  gun- 
powder, let  it  stand  until  you  get  the  strength,  bathe 


186 

the  foot  iiigTit  and  morning  for  ten  days  ;  then  apply 
the  Hoof  Ointment  to  grow  them  out. 

No.  88.  Heave  Remedy. — Balsam  of  fir  and  balsam 
of  copaiva,  equal  portions,  add  calomel  and  magne- 
sia, equal  parts,  to  thicken,  make  into  rolls  the  size 
of  yolk  to  an  egg.  Grive  twice  a  day,  morning  and 
evening. 


187 


A  BRIEF  DICTIONARY, 

As  a  Safe  Guide  to  the  Farmer  and  Youn^  Practitioner. 


Anterior, before;  the  front  part  of  the  body. 

Anti-spasmodic,  a  medicine  that  relieves  spasms  or  cramps. 

Anti-septic,  medicines  which  stop  decay  or  decomposition.  Sep- 
tic poison  is  a  deadly  poison  in  all  dead  bodies  not  bled  to  death. 

Anus,  the  outlet  of  the  bowels  at  ihe  tail ;  the  fundament. 

Appendage,  an  addition ;  an  ornament,  such  as  the  hair,  etc. 

Appreciate,  to  set  a  value  on ;  to  understand  the  valuee  of. 

Approach,  to  come  near  to. 

Approximate,  near  to. 

Articulate,  to  join  end  to  end,  as  bones  in  a  joint. 

Articulating",  working  hinge-like. 

Asphyxia,  death  by  depriving  the  lungs  of  air. 

Assimilate,  to  make  like. 

Astragalus,  the  name  of  the  largest  bone  of  the  hock-joint  below 
the  oscalcis. 

Ascend,  to  climb  or  go  up. 

Astringent,  a  medicine  that  contracts  or  puckers. 

Astringents,  medicines  which  stop  discharges,  by  contracting 
the  parts,  such  as  blood,  mucus,  etc. 

Atrophy,  a  wasting  away  of  the  parts. 

Augment,  to  increase, 

Autlienticated,  made  certain. 

Avocation,  a  business. 

Azote  Nitrogen,  an  element  of  many  articles  of  food,  especially 
of  flesh. 

Abdomen,  the  belly. 

Abortion,  foaling  before  the  young  animal  can  live. 

Abrupt,  sudden  ;  rude  ;  quick. 

Abscess,  a  swelling  or  cavity  containing  matter  or  pus. 

Absorb,  to  swallow  up. 

Absorption,  soaking,  or  takingupby  fine  vessels  called  absorbents. 

Accelerate,  to  make  quicker  or  faster. 

Acid,  sour.     There  are  several  kinds. 


188 

Acute,  sharp ;  an  acute  disease,  one  quiet  in  its  approach  ;  violent. 

Adag'e,  an  old  saying  or  proverb. 

AllhftSion,  a  sticking  together. 

Adhesiveness,  the  propertyof  gluey  substances. 

Aeration,  exposing  to  the  air,  such  as  the  blood  in  the  lungs,  to 
free  it  from  carbon. 

Affinity,  nearness ;  the  quality  which  causes  the  parts  of  a  sub- 
stance to  keep  together. 

AlblimiuOUS,  resembling  the  white  of  an  egg  in  substance. 

Alterative,  a  medicine  which  generally  improves  health  mildly. 

Aliment,  the  food. 

Alimentary  Canal,  the  bowels. 

Analog'y,  resemblance  ;  likeness. 

Analysis,  to  consider  separately  anything  in  parts  ;    to  separate. 

Anatomy,  the  description  of  the  different  parts  of  the  animal  body. 

Anciiylosis,  the  stiffening  of  a  joint  permauently. 

Antagonist,  one  that  opposes  another. 

B.  _ 

Balking,  refusing  to  pull  or  go  forward. 

Base,  foundation. 

Beneatll,  under  the  lower  part. 

Be-Stud,  to  set  thickly;   to  cover  with  patches  or  spots. 

Beveling",  cutting  with  a  slope  or  bevel. 

Biliary,  relating  to  the  bile. 

BDUnded,  surrounded. 

Boot,  a  leather  boot  worn  to  prevent  one  foot  cutting  the  other, 

called  in  Europe,  buffer. 
Baug'ie,  an  instrument  to  open  the  uretha,  or  urinary  passage. 
Breeding  In  and  In,  putting  a  mare  to  a  horse  of  the  same  family 

or  stock. 
Bridoon,  an  extra  bridle-bit  used  in  conjunction  with  another, 

each  having  a  separate  rein. 
C. 
Cannon-Bone,  the  shank,  or  bone  below  the  knee  or  hock. 
Canker,  the  name  given  to  a  certain  kind  of  eating  sores. 
Capsnlar  Ligaments,  the  ligaments  surrounding  the  joints. 
Capsicum,  Cayenne  pepper  ;  a  small  red  pepper. 
Capillaries,   the  little  fine  vessels  connecting  the  arteries  and 

veins. 
Carminatives,  medicines  that  drive  wind  out  of  the  stomach  and 

bowels. 

Carbon,  the  principal  part  of  wood  :  charcoal  is  impu.-e  carbon  ; 
poisonous  substance  in  the  blood  extracted  by  the  ox^-gen  of 
the  air  in  the  lungs ;  diamond. 


189 

Carcass,  the  animal  body. 

Carped,  gathered  up ;  rounded. 

Contact,  lying  or  coming  together. 

Cartilag-e,  gristle ;  a  smooth  white  substance  covering  the  ends 

of  bones  moving  or  working  on  each  other,  as  in  joints,  etc. 
Castrate,  to  deprive  uf  the  seeds  or  testicles. 
Catheter,  an  instrument  to  draw  off  the  water,  urine,  etc. 
Cathartic,  medicines  which  n)Ove  the  bowels  ;  a  physic. 
Cauterize,  to  burn  the  flesh  with  medicine  or  a  hot  iron. 
Caustic,  a  medicine  which  burns   or   destroys   the  flesB,  when 

touched  with  it. 
CaTlty,  a  hollow,  low,  or  open  space.  , 

Celehrity,  distinction  ;  greatness  ;  famousness. 
Cellular  Tissue,  the  tissue  that  joins  the  skin  to  the  body,  and 

unites  the  parts  or  fibres  of  the  muscles,  and  in  which  the  fat 

is  deposited. 
Chaff,  a  name  given  to  cut  feed,  hay,  straw,  etc. 
Characteristic,  a  symptom  of  character ;    a  disposition  of,  or  a 

natural  and  general  instinct. 
Characterize,  to  distinguish. 
Chemical,  relating  to  chemistry. 
Chronic,  a  lingering  disease,  after  the  acute  stage. 
Circumference,  the  distance  around  anything. 
Circumscribed,  marked  around,  limited. 
Cleft,  a  notch  ;  a  division  ;  a  furrow. 

Coag'ulate,  to  clot  or  thicken  like  blood,  or  become  like  jelly. 
Coa^ulable  Lymph,  albumen,  (which  see.) 
Co-exist,  to  be  or  exist  together. 
Coliesion,  sticking  to  ;  sticking  together. 
Coliort,  a  large  number. 
Combustion,  burning. 
Component,  entering  into  as  a  part. 

Concave,  a  hollow  or  cupped  surface;  the  opposite  of  convex. 
Conception,  the  act  of  getting  with  young,  after  service  by  the  male. 
Condition,  in  good  plight ;  fleshy. 

Congestion,  the  clogging  of  the  blood  in  the  parts,  lungs,  etc. 
Constituting,  forming  ;   making  up. 

Contagious,  catching  ;  infectious  diseases  are  contagious. 
Contraction,  drawing  up  ;  narrowing. 
Contrast,  a  difference  of  color,  shade,  or  form,  etc. 
Convex,  oval  or  rounding;  the  opposite  of  concave. 
Copious,  plentiful,  abundant. 

Coronet,  the  upper  part  of  the  hoof,  where  it  joins  the  skin. 
Corroborate,  to  agree  in  giving  evidence,  or  proof. 
Cranium,  the  skull. 


1^0 

Crest,  the  back  or  upper  part  of  the  neck. 

Criterion,  a  rule  to  judge  by. 

Crust,  the  hoof  is  so  called. 

Cultiyate,  to  improve  the  form,  size,  or  intellect. 


Debility,  weakness ;  feebleness. 

Decrease,  to  make  less. 

Decompose,  to  decay  ;  to  separate  into  its  component  parts. 

Deduce,  to  form  an  idea  or  conclusion. 

Defective,  not  perfect. 

Dense,  close  ;  Solid;  hard. 

Delirium,  craziness ;  want  of  sense. 

Deterioration,  to  make  less  or  worse. 

Dissent,  to  ditfer  from. 

Develop,  to  show  muscular  form ;  to  bring  up  to  perfection. 

Diaphoretics,  medicines  which  arouse  sweating. 

Diapiirag'm,  the  broad  muscle  which  separates  the  chest  and 

belly,  and  assists  in  the  act  of  breathing. 
Diffuse,  to  spread  out ;  extend  ;  drive  out. 
Dig'estive,  relating  to  digestion. 
Dilated,  opened  wide  ;  gaping  open. 

Dilute,  to  make  fluid  medicine  thin  or  weak,  as  with  water,  eto. 
Diminution,  lessening  or  decreasing. 
Dislocation,  putting  out  of  joint. 
Distorted,  crooked  or  deformed ;  out  of  shape. 
Distended,  stretched  out ;  forced  out,  or  swelled. 
Diuretics,  medicines  which  increase  the  flow  of  urine. 
Divest,  to  turn  aside  from. 
Docile,  gentle  ;  tame  ;  obedient. 

Domestication,  taming  or  bringing  from  a  state  of  nature. 
Dominion,  control ;  authority  ;  power. 
Ducts,  pipes  or  openings  ;  canals ;  tubes. 
Duodenum,   the  first  gut  next  the  stomach;    the  bile  enters 

through  it. 


Economy,  saving  ;  good  management. 
Effusion,  the  flowmg  out  of  a  fluid. 
Elastic,  springy,  as  a  spring  or  India  rubber. 
Elude,  to  escape  observation  ;  to  shun. 
Embryo,  the  unborn  animal. 
Enamel,  the  hard  covering  of  the  teeth. 
Ensue,  to  follow. 


191 

Epiglottis,  the  covering  of  the  glottis. 

Epidemic,  a  disease  affecting  many,  as  if  it  existed  in  the  air. 

Erect,  standing  up  straight. 

Eruption,  a  breaking  out  on  the  skin  of  pimples  or  blisters. 

Ewe-Necked,  low-necked,  like  a  sheep  shorn. 

Exalted,  dignified ;  raised. 

Exanthema,  an  eruption  on  the  skin  with  fever.' 

Excreting,  throwing  out  from  the  body. 

Excrement,  the  dung  and  urine. 

Exert,  to  act  diligently,  promptly. 

Exhale,  throwing  or  forcing  out,  as  blowing  the  breath. 

Exhaustion,  being  tired,  or  worn  out  by  fatigue. 

Exhilarate,  to  make  lively,  or  cheerful. 

Exist,  to  live,  to  be. 

Expansion,  increasing  in  size. 

Expedite,  to  hasten. 

Expel,  to  throw  out,  or  drive  out. 

External,  on  the  outside. 

Extensor  Tendon,  tendon  that  extends,  or  stretches  out  the 

limbs,  etc. 
Exterior,  the  outside. 

Extrayasate,  to  flow  out  of  the  proper  vessels. 
Extremity,  the  limbs  are  so  called. 
Exude,  to  soak  out  through. 


Facility,  an  ease  ;  easiness. 
Fallacy,  an  error ;  not  true ;  deceit. 
Febrifuges,  medicines  which  cool  fevers. 
Femur,  the  thigh-bone  proper. 

Fibula,  the  smallest  of  the  two  bones  above  the  back. 
Fibrous,  composed  of  fibres  or  fine  thread-like  substances. 
Fibrous  Membrane,  a  membrane  composed  of  fibres. 
Fissure,  an  opening,  or  crack. 

Flatulent,  windy ;  relating  to  gas,  or  wind  in  the  stomach,  etc. 
Flex,  to  bend,  or  gather  up. 
Fluid,  a  liquid,  such  as  water ;  air  is  so  called. 
Florid,  red  or  scarlet  like. 

Fomentation,  applying  warmth  and  moisture  by  poultices,  etc. 
Forceps,  long,  pointed  pincers,  or  nippers. 
Fracture,  the  breaking  of  a  bone. 
Friction,  rubbing. 

Function,  the  office  or  duty  of  anything. 
Fundament,  the  anus,  or  last  end  of  the  g^ts. 
9 


192 
o. 

Gangrene,  mortification. 

Generative,  concerned  in  producing  or  begetting  or  breeding. 

Generate,  to  produce  ;  to  beget  offspring  or  young. 

Genital,  belonging  to  the  organs  of  breeding  or  generation. 

Gland,  a  soft  body,  with  a  tube  leading  from  it,  which  secretea 
fluid. 

Grannlate,  to  form  new  flesh,  or  matter  which  has  the  appear- 
ance of  small  grains. 

Groove,  a  channel,  or  gutter. 

Group,  a  collection,  or  several  together. 

Gullet,  the  aesophagus  or  passage  to  the  stomach. 

H. 

Habit,  custom,  or  practice. 

Haggard,  worn  ;  ghastly  ;  death-like. 

Haunch,  the  bony  region  of  the  hips. 

Hectic,  constitutional  fever,  produced  by  ulcers  or  sores,  etc. 

Hereditary,  bred  in  the  offspring  from  the  parents,  as  disease, 

color,  etc. 
Hue,  a  color.  £ 

Humerus,  the  upper  arm-bone. 
Hysterics,  a  nervous  disease  of  females. 


Imagination,  what  the  mind  dictates  or  suggests. 

Impediment,  an  obstruction ;  hindrance ;  fault ;  an  eye-sore. 

Impede,  to  hinder. 

Imperceptible,  not  noticeable. 

Implicit,  a  perfect  faith. 

Impression,  an  idea  or  conclusion ;  a  mark. 

Impulse,  a  disposition. 

Impurity,  unfitness  for  use ;  adulterated. 

Inadequate,  not  sufficient. 

Innate,  inherent  in  itself. 

Incisor,  the  front  or  cutting  teeth  are  called  incisors. 

Incision,  a  clean  cut. 

Inculcated,  taught ;  instructed. 

Indurated,  hardened. 

Infection,  the  poison  which  causes  the  same  disease  by  coming  in 

contact  with  a  healthy  animal ;  inoculation. 
Inferior,  a  bad  quality. 
Instinct,  brute  sense  ;  void  of  reason. 


198 

Inocnlation^  producing  the  same  disease  by  virus  of  one  animal 
getting  to  a  sore  on  another,  or  in  any  way  getting  into  the 
blood. 

Insertion,  when  anything  is  put  into  anotlier  by  cutting,  etc. 

Internally,  inwardly ;  medicines  given  by  the  mouth  are  said 
to  be  given  internally. 

Intensity,  in  an  extreme  degree. 

Intervals,  space  of  time. 

Intestines,  the  bowels  ;  the  guts. 

Interfering,  cutting  one  foot  with  another  in  passing  it. 

Inject,  to  throw  into ;  also  to  cause  disease  by  injection. 

Invert,  to  turn  round,  or  upside  down. 

Invigorating',  strengthening. 

J. 

Jets  or  Spurts,  a  name  given  to  the  bleeding  of  arteries. 
Jugular,  the  large  neck  vein. 

I.. 

Lacerate,  to  tear  ;  to  drag  asunder. 

LamellaB,  small  plates. 

Languor,  weakness ;  faintness. 

Lateral,  to  the  one  side. 

Lens,  a  part  of  the  eye. 

Lever,  anything  stiff  used  to  raise  weights  at  one  end,  with  a 

force  applied  to  the  other. 
Ligaments,  strong  bands  about  the  joints. 
Local,  near  ;  in  a  certain  place. 

Lubricate,  to  moisten ,  to  oil,  such  as  joints  are  by  the  joint  oiL 
Lucrative,  profitable. 
Lunar,  relating  to  the  moon. 

M. 

Macerate,  to  soak  in  fluid,  such  as  water,  etc.,  before  dissecting. 
Malady,  a  disease  or  ailment  is  so  called. 
Malformation,  an  unnatural  shape  of  structure. 
Malignant,  severe  ;  low  ;  dangerous. 
Masticate,  to  chew ;  the  act  of  chewing. 
Materia  Medica,  medical  materials. 
Materially,  importantly  i  that  which  concerns. 
Mature,  full  grown  ;  ripe. 

Medium,  midway  ;  middle  sized;  the  center  of  the  whole. 
Medullary,  the  marrow  of  the  bone. 

Membrane,  a  thin  covering;  one  covers  the  brain,  others  the 
bones  and  different  organs. 


194 

Mental,  relating  to  the  mind. 

Miasma,  poison  in  the  air,  causing  disease. 

Migratory,  changing  from  place  to  place. 

Mo(3ern,  new  ;  of  late  date. 

Moral,  discreet ;  just  and  peaceably  minded. 

Morbid,  unhealthy  ;  there  are  morbid  sores,  secretions,  etc. 

Mortification,  the  death  of  any  part  of  the  animal,  diseased  by 

sore  or  wound,  called  gangrene. 
Mucilage,  a  jelly  like  fluid. 
Mucus,  the  secretions  of  the  nose,  and  all  mucus  surfaces  of  the 

anitnal. 
Muscles,  the  fleshy  portion  of  the  animal. 
Mysterious,  hard  to  understand. 

W. 
Nauseate,  to  sicken  the  stomach. 
Nauseants,  medicines  that  nauseate. 
Narcotics,  medicines  which  stupefy  or  cause  sleep. 
Nervous,  relating  to  the  nerves ;  weak-nerved  animals  are  called 

nervous. 
Neutralize,  to  destroy  the  force,  or  effect. 
Nitrate  of  Silver,  lunar  caustic. 
Nutritive,  strong,  healthy  food  is  so  called. 

O. 

Obedience,  submission  ;   tameness. 

Oblique,  slanting;  crooked. 

Obviate,  remedied ;  avoided. 

Obvious,  clear  ;  plain  ;  certain. 

Optic,  relating  to  the  eye  or  sight. 

Opprobrium,  reproach. 

Organic,  composed  of  organs. 

Organism,  the  living  body. 

Organized,  composed  of  organs ;  complete. 

Origin,  the  first  existence,  or  beginning. 

Ossification,  turning  into  bone. 

Os,  the  technical  name  of  bone. 

Os  Calsis,  the  tip  of  the  hock. 

Oval,  round  ;  egg-shaped. 

Oxydation,  converting  into  air  (oxyd) ;  the  process  performed  on 

the  blood  in  the  lungs  by  contact  with  the  air. 
Oxygen,  the  element  in  the  air  which  principally  sustains  life. 

P. 

Palate,  the  upper  part  or  roof  of  the  mouth. 
Palatable,  pleasant  to  the  taste. 


W5 

Pancreas,  the  sweet-bread. 

Perceptible,  that  may  be  seen  or  known. 

Perforated,  full  of  small  holes. 

PeriOiiteum,  the  membranous  covering  of  the  bones. 

Permanently,  continuing  a  long  time  in  a  fixed  state  or  place. 

PerpeudicHlar,  straight  up  and  down. 

Perpetuate,  to  continue. 

Pervert,  to  change  or  turn  from  its  former  uses. 

Pernicious,  evil ;  bad. 

Pharynx,  the  opening  into  the  gullet  or  passage  to  the  stomach. 

Phenomenon,  an  unusual  appearance. 

Pliysical,  ability  or  strength. 

Placenta,  the  membrane  covering  the  foal  in  the  womb. 

Plantar,  belonging  to  the  feet. 

Plethora,  full  of  blood  ;  a  full  habit. 

Pleura,  the  serous  membrane  that  lines  the  chest  and  contents, 

and  reflects  on  the  same,  lubricating  or  oiling  them  with  its 

secretions. 
Posterior,  the  hinder  end. 

Predispose,  to  fit  for ;  to  give  an  inclination  to. 
Pregnancy,  the  act  of  being  with  young. 
Preyalent,  existing  plentifully  ;  often  occurring. 
Process,  long  spikes  or  points  of  bone. 
Profuse,  plentiful ;  of  great  abundance. 
Progeny,  the  offspring  of  any  ancestors. 
Prominence,  an  elevation  of  a  part. 
Propagate,  to  plant ;  to  produce  offspring. 
Protracted,  continued  a  long  time. 
Pulmonary,  belonging  to  the  lungs. 
Pulse,  the  beat  of  the  arteries. 
Pumiced,  the  falling  down  of  the  coffin-bone  on  the  sole,  caused 

by  inflammation. 
Puncture,  to  make  a  hole  with  a  pointed  instrument. 
Pupil,  the  apple  or  ball  of  the  eye. 
Putrefaction,  corruption ;  rottenness  ;  decomposition,  etc. 

Quittor,  an  ulcer  inside  the  foot,  of  the  character  of  fistula. 

B. 

Kadius,  the  large  bone  of  the  lower  arm  above  the  knee, 
iiadiated,  like  the  rays  of  the  sun. 
Kancid,  a  rank,  strons*,  sour  smell. 
Recent,  lately  ;  not  long  since. 
Becogruize,  to  know  a  former  acquaintance. 


196 

Rectum,  the  last  gut. 

Reproduction,  the  act  of  breeding. 

Respiration,  the  act  of  breathiug. 

Response,  an  answer  to  a  query  or  requirement. 

lieteutiOU)  stoppage  or  holding ;  tlie  urine  is  so  held. 


Saliyary,  the  glands  that  throw  out  the  saliva  or  spittle. 

Salivate,  to  cause  an  increased  flow  of  saliva  or  spittle. 

Saliva,  a  spittle. 

Sapliena  Major  and  Minor,  veins  of  the  hind  leg. 

Scalloped,  hollowed  out ;  the  edges  of  a  circle  cut  in  segments. 

Scaphoid,  shaped  like  a  boat. 

Sear,  to  bum  with  a  hot  iron  (cautery). 

Secretion,  hiditig  ;  throwing  off  fluid. 

Semi-circle,  a  half  circle. 

.Sensitive,  havini>:  feeling  ;  also  wit. 

Sensitive  Lamella),  the  lamellae  of  the  coffin-bone. 

Sensibiiities,  feelings  of  impressions,  hurts  or  shocks,  etc. 

Septic,  poison  in  dead  bodies,  called  virus  in  the  living. 

Sinuses,  small  holes  containing  matter  or  pus. 

Skeptical,  doubtful ;  not  believing. 

Sloughing,  rotting  or  mattering  away. 

Socket,  a  depression  or  hole  for  an  organ  to  work  in. 

Spasmodic,  relating  to  cramps,  fits  and  spasms. 

Specious,  pleasant  to  the  view. 

Species,  the  same  class  of  animals,  plants,  etc. 

Spontaneous,  a  plentiful  growth  ;  not  planted. 

Strangury,  stopping ;  choking  any  passage  ;  holding  tight. 

Stricture,  stoppage  or  tightening  of  any  of  the  passages  of  the 

body  by  morbid  or  spasmodic  action. 
Structure,  the  formation  of  anything. 
Stupor,  dullness  ;  sleepiness ;  senselessness. 
Sternum,  the  breast-bone. 

Styptics,  articles  in  medicine  Avhich  stop  bleeding. 
Subsequent,  since  a  certain  period  of  time. 
SuhsidCf  to  sink  ;  go  down  quick ;  quit  swelling. 
Subtile,  crafty ;  tricky. 
Superficial,   the  upper  or  outer-side  view. 
Superiority,  exceeding  another  in  any  way. 
Suppuration,  mattering. 

Susceptible,  easily  influenced ;  capable  of  receiving. 
Sustenance,  food  ;  support ;  keeping. 
Sutures,  stitches  ;  fastenings ;   joinings. 


197 

Symmetry,  well  built ;  stout ;  well  proportioned. 
Sympathy,    affection ;    a   nervous   connection  between  different 
parts  of  the  same  body. 

T. 

Temporary,  only  for  a  time. 

Tendon,  the  small  end  of  a  muscle  near  a  joint ;  the  back  sinews 
of  the  lag,  etc. 

Tent,  a  plug  tent  or  pledget. 

Testicles,  the  stones  of  the  stallion. 

Thorax,  the  chest. 

Tibia,  a  bone  of  the  hind-leg  above  the  hock  ;  thigh-bone. 

Tonics,  medicines  that  add  strength  and  vigor. 

Transmitted,  passed  from  one  to  another,  as  from  parent  to  off- 
spring. 

Transparent,  clear ;  that  can  be  seen  through. 

Trapezium,  one  of  the  bones  of  the  knee. 

Tread,  t(j  tramp  on ;  the  part  of  the  hoof  that  rests  on  the  ground. 

Tubercle,  a  small  tumor;  a  forerunner  of  consumption. 

Tumefaction,  a  puffy  swelling  of  any  part. 

Tumor,  a  swelling  or  enlargement. 

Turbinated,  having  a  round  crown  or  top. 

Turret,  a  tower  ;  the  rings  of  a  harness  through  which  the  lines 
pass. 

U. 

Ulcers,  running  sores. 

Ulna,  a  bone  of  the  arm. 

Ulterior,  beyond  any  form  or  division ;  a  last  result. 

Unciform,  shaped  like  a  finger-nail. 

Ureter,  the  tube  conveying  the  water  from  the  kidneys  to  the 

bladder. 
Uterus,  the  womb. 

V. 

Vacantly,  thoughtlessly ;  foolishly. 

Vascular,  highly  organized,  or  furnished  with  blood-vessele. 

Ventilate,    to  supply  with  pure  air. 

Vermifug'es,  medicines  that  destroy  worms. 

Villi,  small,  fine  fibre-!,  like  hairs. 

Virus,  poisonous;  contagious  or  infecting  matter. 

Vision,  the  sight;  the  art  of  seeing 

Vital,  having  or  containing  life. 

Vivifying,  bringing  to  life. 


198 

W. 

Withers,  the  high  process  of  the  vertebrse  between  the  neck  and 
the  back. 

Z. 

Zoolo^st,  one  who  examines  and  describes  animals. 


19^ 


RULES  AND  REGULATIONS 

For  the  government  of  Trotting  and  Pacing  over  the 
Fashion  Course^  as  adopted  by  most  of  the  Turf  As- 
sociations of  the  State  of  New  York  and  other  States. 


Article  1. — All  trotting  and  pacing  over  the 
Fashion  Course  shall  be  governed  by  the  following 
rules  and  regulations,  unless  otherwise  agreed  upon 
by  parties  making  matches  or  sweepstakes. 

2. —  Entries. —  All  entries  must  be  made  un- 
der seal,  inclosing  the  entrance  money  for  the  purse 
and  forfeit  in  sweepstakes,  and  be  addressed  to  the 
Secretary,  or  some  person  authorized  by  the  Asso- 
ciation, at  such  time  and  place  as  may  have  been 
announced  by  public  advertisement.  An  accurate 
and  satisfactory  description  of  all  unknown  entries 
will  be  required.  After  the  time  has  expired  for 
closing  the  entries,  the  Secretary,  or  some  person 
authorized,  shall  open  and  make  known  the  entries 
in  public,  and  publish  them  in  one  or  more  news- 
papers. No  purse  shall  be  given  for  a  walk-over. 
All  entrance-money  for  purses  is  one-half  forfeit  to 
the  Association,  and  when  only  one  entry  appears 
on  the  course,  he  shall  receive  the  other  half. 
*9 


200 

8. —  In  Case  of  Death. —  All  engagements  are 
void  upon  the  decease  of  either  party.  If  a  race  is 
made  "play  or  paj^,"  or  with  a  forfeit,  the  death  of  a 
horse  shall  not  affect  the  engagement. 

4. —  Qualifications. —  As  many  entries  may  be 
made  by  one  owner,  or  as  many  horses  trained  in 
the  same  stable  as  may  be  desired,  but  only  one  that 
has  been  owned  in  whole  or  in  part  by  the  same 
person  or  persons,  or  trained  in  the  same  stable 
within  ten  days  previous  to  the  race,  can  start  in  any 
race  of  "heats,"  and  all  such  forfeited  entries  will  be 
added  to  the  purses,  or  given  to  the  second  best 
horse  in  the  race,  at  the  option  of  the  Association. 

5. —  Weights. —  Every  horse  starting  for  a  purse, 
sweepstakes,  or  match,  or  in  any  trotting  or  pacing 
race,  shall  ca,rry,  if  to  wagon  or  sulky,  150  lbs.,  ex- 
clusive of  harness ;  and  if  under  saddle,  145  lbs., 
the  saddle  and  whip  only  to  be  weighed. 

6. —  Distances. — In  heats  of  one  mile,  80  yards 
shall  be  a  distance  ;  in  heats  of  two  miles,  150  yards 
shall  be  a  distance ;  in  heats  of  three  miles,  220  yards 
shall  be  a  distance ;  in  heats  of  one  mile,  best  three 
in  five,  100  yards  shall  be  a  distance.  All  horses 
whose  heads  have  not  reached  the  distance  stand  as 
soon  as  the  leading  horse  arrives  at  the  winning- 
post  shall  be  declared  distanced.  If  any  jockey 
shall  ride  or  drive  foul,  his  horse  shall  be  declared 
distanced.  Whenever  the  winner  of  a  heat  is  dis- 
tanced by  any  default  in  riding,  weight,  or  other- 


201 

wise,  tlie   heat  shall  be  awarded  to  the  next  best 
horse. 

■  7. —  Time  between  Heats. —  The  time  between 
heats  shall  be  twenty-five  minutes  for  mile  heats, 
best  three  in  five ;  and  for  mile  heats,  twenty  min- 
utes ;  for  two  mile  heats,  thirty  minutes  ;  for  three 
mile  heats,  thirty-five  minutes  ;  and  should  there  be 
a  race  of  four  mue  heats,  the  time  shall  be  forty 
minutes. 

8. —  Size  of  Whips. —  Riders  and  drivers  will  be 
allowed  whips  of  the  following  lengths  :  for  saddle 
horses,  two  feet,  ten  inches  ;  sulkies,  four  feet,  eight 
inches ;  wagons,  five  feet,  ten  inches. 

9. —  Selection  of  Judges. —  There  shall  be  cho- 
sen by  the  Fashion  Association  three  judges  for  the 
day  or  race,  from  among  the  members  of  the  Pleas- 
ure Ground  Association,  except  in  matches,  when 
the  parties  making  the  race  can  select  their  judges, 
who  must  be  members  of  the  Association. 

10. —  Power  of  Judges. —  The  judges  of  the  day 
or  race  shall  have  power  to  appoint  Distance  and 
Patrol  judges;  they  shall  decide  all  questions  and 
matters  of  dispute  between  the  parties  of  the  race 
that  are  not  provided  for  in  the  Rules  and  Regula- 
tions ;  when  deemed  requisite,  they  may  call  to  their 
assistance  competent  and  disinterested  persons  for 
consultation  and  advice  ;  when  any  rider  or  driver 
shall  cause  unnecessary  delay  after  the  horses  are 
called  up,  either  by  neglecting  to  prepare  for  the 


202 

race  in  time,  or  by  making  false  starts  or  otherwise, 
tlie  judges  may  give  the  word  without  regard  to  the 
offending  party  or  parties  ;  when  any  horse  or  horses 
keep  so  far  ahead  of  others  that  the  judges  cannot 
give  a  fair  start,  they  shall  give  the  offending  party  or 
parties  notice  of  the  penalty  attached  to  such  offensive 
conduct,  and  should  they  still  pe^ist  in  their  offen- 
sive course,  the  judges  may  give  the  word,  and  such 
offending  parties  shall  not  win  the  heat,  although 
they  come  to  the  score  ahead  of  all  others,  and  shall 
be  placed  behind  all  others  in  the  heat ;  when  horses 
are  refractory,  or  from  other  causes  which  may  pre- 
vent the  judges  from  giving  the  word,  they  may, 
after  a  reasonable  time,  give  the  word,  without  refer- 
ence to  the  position  of  the  refractory  horse  or  horses, 
or,  after  a  lapse  of  twenty-five  minutes,  may  call 
them  to  the  score  and  start  them. 

11. — Distance  and  Patkol  Judges. —  In  all 
races  of  heats,  there  shall  be  a  Distance  judge  ap- 
pointed by  the  judges  of  the  day,  who  shall  remain 
in  the  Distance  stand  during  the  heats,  and  immedi- 
ately after  each  heat  shall  repair  to  the  judges'  stand, 
and  report  to  the  judges  the  horse  or  horses  that  may 
be  distanced,  and  any  act  of  foul,  if  any  has  occurred 
under  his  observation  ;  the  Patrol  judges  shall  repair 
in  like  manner  to  the  judges'  stand,  and  report  any 
act  of  foul,  if  any  has  occurred  under  their  observa- 
tion ;  the  report  of  the  Distance  and  Patrol  judges 
shall  alone  be  received. 


208 

12. —  Judges'  Duty.— The  judges  should  be  in 
the  stand  fifteen  minutes  before  the  time  of  starting ; 
the  J  shall  weigh  the  riders  or  drivers,  and  draw  for 
positions  of  the  horses  ;  ring  the  bell  or  give  other 
notice  five  minutes  previous  to  the  time  announced 
for  the  race  to  come  off*,  which  shall  be  notice  to  all 
parties  to  prepare  for  the  race  at  the  appointed  time, 
when  all  the  horses  must  be  ready  ;  and  any  party 
failing  to  comply  with  this  rule  shall  be  liable  to 
forfeit  or  to  be  ruled  out.  The  judges  shall  not  no- 
tice or  receive  complaints  of  foul  from  any  person 
or  persons  except  those  appointed  by  the  j  udges  for 
that  purpose,  and  riders  and  drivers  in  the  race  ;  the 
result  of  a  heat  shall  not  be  announced  until  the 
judges  are  satisfied  as  to  the  weights  of  the  riders  or 
drivers,  and  sufficient  time  has  elapsed  to  receive  the 
reports  ot  the  Patrol  and  Distance  judges. 

13.- — Power  of  Postponement. —  In  cases  of 
unfavorable  weather  or  other  unavoidable  cause,  the 
proprietor  shall  have  power  to  postpone  to  a  future 
time  all  purses  or  sweepstakes,  to  which  he  shall 
have  contributed,  upon  giving  notice  thereof  And 
if  darkness  shall  intervene  during  any  race,  it  shall 
be  the  duty  of  the  judges  to  continue  the  race  over 
until  next  day,  when  it' shall  be  resumed  and  decided, 
and  all  the  bets  shall  go  with  the  race.  But  in  order 
to  obviate  the  necessity  for  such  continuation,  it  shall 
be  the  duty  of  the  judges  to  give  the  word  to  as  good 
a  start  as  can  be  had,  when  there  has  been  a  reason- 


204 

able  amount  of  scoring.  In  matches,  the  race  can 
only  be  postponed  by  the  consent  of  the  parties 
thereto.  This  rule  to  take  efi'ect  Monday,  June  17 
1867. 

14. — Judges'  Stand. —  None  but  the  judges  shall 
be  allowed  in  the  judges'  stand. 

15. —  Accidents. —  In  case  of  accidents,  ten  min- 
utes shall  be  allowed  ;  but  the  judges  may  allow 
more  time  when  deemed  necessary  and  proper. 

16. —  Disputes  and  Contingencies. — When  dis- 
putes and  contingencies  arise  which  are  not  provided 
for  in  the  Eules  and  Regulations,  the  judges  shall 
have  power  to  decide  in  such  cases. 

17. —  Starting  AND  Keeping  Positions. —  The 
judges  shall  inform  the  riders  and  drivers  of  their 
positions  in  starting  for  the  race  ;  the  horse  winning 
the  heat  shall  take  the  pole  the  succeeding  heat,  and 
all  others  shall  take  their  positions  in  the  order  in 
which  they  came  home  in  the  last  heat.  When  two 
or  more  horses  shall  make  a  dead  heat,  the  horses 
shall  start  for  the  succeeding  heat  in  the  same  posi- 
tions they  occupied  at  the  finish  of  the  dead  heat. 
In  coming  out  in  the  home-stretch,  each  horse  shall 
keep  the  position  first  selected,  except  the  hindmost 
.horse,  who,  when  there  is  sufiicient  room  to  pass  on 
the  inside,  or  anywhere  in  the  home-stretch  without 
interfering  with  others,  shall  be  allowed  to  do  so  ; 
and  any  party  interfering  to  prevent  him  shall  be 


205 

distanced,  or  lose  the  heat,  as  the  judges  may  deter- 
mine ;  any  party  violating  this  rule  willfully  shall 
be  distanced.  If  a  horse  should  at  any  time  cross 
or  swerve  on  the  home  stretch,  so  as  to  impede  the 
progress  of  a  horse  behind  him,  he  shall  not  be  en- 
titled to  beat  him  in  that  heat ;  and  if,  in  the  opinion 
of  the  judges,  such  crossing  or  swerving  was  will- 
ful on  the  part  of  the  rider  or  driver,  he  shall  be 
distanced.      ■*» 

18. —  Decorum. —  If  any  owner,  trainer,  rider, 
driver  or  attendant  of  a  horse  use  improper  language 
to  the  officers  of  the  course,  or  be  guilty  of  improper 
conduct,  the  person  so  offending  may  be,  by  the 
judges  of  the  day  or  race,  ruled  off  the  course,  and 
not  be  permitted  to  ride,  drive,  or  attend  a  horse  on 
this  course  again,  in  any  race  under  the  control  of 
the  Association,  unless  such  ruling-off  be  rescinded 
at  a  regular  monthly  meeting  of  the  members  of  the 
Pleasure  Ground  Association,  by  a  majority  vote  of 
the  members  then  present. 

19. —  Placing  Horses. —  Horses  distanced  in  the 
first  heat  are  equal  in  the  race ;  but  in  all  succeeding 
heats,  horses  that  are  distanced  in  the  same  heat  shall 
rank  in  the  race  in  the  order  which  they  were  enti- 
tled to  at  the  start  of  the  heat ;  that  is,  horses  having 
won  two  heats,  better  than  those  winning  one  ;  a 
horse  that  has  won  a  heat,  better  than  a  horse  only 
making  a  dead  heat ;   a  horse  winning  one  or  two 


206 

heats  and  making  a  dead  heat,  better  than  one  win- 
ning an  equal  number  of  heats,  but  not  making  a 
dead  heat.  When  horses  winning  an  equal  number 
of  heats  shall  be  distanced  in  the  same  heat,  they 
shall  rank  in  the  race  in  the  order  in  which  they 
started  for  the  heat  in  which  they  were  distanced. 
When  two  or  more  horses  shall  have  won  an  equal 
number  of  heats,  they  shall  rank  in  the  race  as  they 
are  placed  in  the  last  heat  in  which  Hlhey  contend  ; 
horses  not  winning  or  making  a  dead  heat,  the  same. 
In  case  this  article  should  not  give  specific  decision 
as  to  second  or  third  money,  etc.,  the  judges  are  to 
decide  according  to  the  best  of  their  ability  and  turf 
usages  in  general,  and  all  outside  bets  to  be  govern- 
ed thereby. 

20. —  Horses  Breaking. —  When  any  horse  or 
horses  break  from  their  gait,  in  trotting  or  pacing, 
their  riders  or  drivers  shall  immediately  pull  them 
to  the  gait  in  which  they  were  to  go  in  the  race ; 
and  any  party  refusing  or  neglecting  to  comply  with 
this  rule  shall  lose  the  heat,  and  the  next  best  horse 
shall  win  the  heat,  and  all  other  horses  shall  be 
placed  ahead  in  the  heat ;  the  judges  shall  also  have 
discretionary  power  to  distance  the  offending  horse 
or  horses.  Should  the  rider  or  driver  comply  with 
this  rule,  and  a  horse  should  gain  by  breaking,  twice 
the  distance  so  gained  shall  be  taken  from  him  or 
them  at  the  coming  out.  A  horse  breaking  at  the 
score  shall  not  lose  the  heat  by  so  doing. 


207 

21. — Winning  Horses. —  A  horse  must  win  a 
majority  of  the  heats  to  be  entitled  to  the  purse  or 
stakes,  unless  such  horse  shall  have  distanced  all 
others  in  one  heat. 

22. — Eelative  to  Heats  and  Horses  Eligible 
TO  Start. —  In  heats,  one,  two,  three,  or  four  miles, 
a  horse  not  winning  one  heat  in  three  shall  not  start 
for  a  fourth,  unless  such  horse  shall  have  made  a 
dead  heat.  In  heats,  best  three  in  five,  a  horse  not 
winning  a  heat  in  five  shall  not  start  for  a  sixth, 
unless  such  horse  shall  have  made  a  dead  heat.  A 
dead  heat  shall  be  considered  a  heat  as  regards  all 
excepting  the  horses  making  such  dead  heat,  and 
those  only  shall  start  for  the  next  heat  which  would 
have  been  entitled  had  the  heat  been  won  by  either 
horse  making  the  dead  heat ;  a  horse  prevented  from 
starting  by  this  rule  shall  not  be  distanced,  but 
ruled  out 

23. —  Collusions  or  Frauds. — When  the  judges 
are  satisfied  that  any  race  is  being,  or  has  been  con- 
ducted improperly  or  dishonestly,  either  on  the  part 
of  the  riders,  drivers,  or  the  parties  controlling  the 
horses  or  race,  they  shall  have  the  power  to  declare 
that  neither  horse  nor  horses  have  won  the  race  nor 
the  money ;  and  all  outside  bets  shall  be  declared 
null  and  void.  Also,  when  there  is  any  interference 
with  riders,  drivers,  their  horses  or  vehicles,  either 
at  the  start  or  during  the  race,  the  judges  shall  have 


208 

power  to  decide  equitably  between  tbe  horses,  and 
their  decision  shall  be  final  and  conclusive,  and  all 
outside  bets  shall  be  governed  thereby. 

24 — Dkess  of  Riders  and  Drivers. —  Judges 
may  require  riders  and  drivers  to  be  propcfly 
dressed. 

25. —  Weights  and  Weighing. —  Riders  and 
drivers  shall  weigh  in  the  presence  of  one  or  more 
of  the  judges  previous  to  starting  for  any  race,  and 
after  each  heat  shall  come  to  the  starting  stand,  and 
not  dismount  or  leave  his  vehicle  without  permission 
of  the  judges.  Any  party  violating  this  rule  shall 
be  distanced,  if  not  of  as  much  bodily  weight  as  the 
rules  of  the  course  require  ;  and  when  of  sufficient 
bodily  weight  it  shall  be  discretionary  with  the 
j  adges  to  rule  him  off,  or  distance  him  for  a  con- 
tempt of  the  Rules  and  Regulations.  But  a  rider  or 
driver  thrown  or  taken  by  force  from  his  horse  or 
vehicle,  after  having  passed  the  winning-post,  shall 
not  ba  considered  as  having  dismounted  without 
permission  of  the  judges ;  and  if  disabled,  may  be 
carried  to  the  judges'  stand  to  be  weighed,  and  the 
judges  may  take  the  circumstances  into  considera- 
tion, and  decide  accordingly. 

26. —  Foul. —  If  a  horse,  driver,  or  rider  shall 
cross,  jostle,  or  strike  another  horse,  driver,  or  rider, 
or  do  anything  that  impedes  another  horse,  accident- 
ally or  not,  it  is  foul,  and  the  horse  that  impedes  the 


209 

other  may  be  adjudged  distanced.  Althougli  a  lead- 
ing horse  is  entitled  to  any  part  of  the  track,  except 
after  selecting  his  position  on  the  home-stretch,  if  he 
cross  from  the  right  to  the  left,'  or  from  the  inner  to 
the  outer  side  of  the  track,  when  a  horse  is  so  near 
him  that,  in  changing  his  position,  he  compels  the 
horse  behind  him  to  shorten  his  stride,  or  if  he  causes 
the  rider  or  driver  to  pull  him  out  of  his  stride,  it  is 
foul ;  and  if,  in  passing  a  leading  horse,  the  track  is 
taken  so  soon  after  getting  the  lead  as  to  cause  the 
horse  passed  to  shorten  his  stride,  it  is  foul.  A  rider 
or  driver  committing  any  act  which  the  judges  may 
deem  intentionally  foul,  must  be  declared  distanced ; 
this  rule  should  at  all  times  be  rigidly  enforced.  All 
complaints  of  foul  by  riders  and  drivers  must  be  made 
at  the  termination  of  the  heat,  and  before  the  rider 
or  driver  dismounts  or  leaves  his  vehicle  by  order 
of  the  j  udges. 

27. —  Handicaps  and  Miscellaneous  "Weights. 
—  In  matches  or  handicaps,  where  extra  or  lesser 
weights  are  to  be  carried,  the  judges  shall  carefully 
examine  and  ascertain,  before  starting,  whether  the 
riders,  drivers,  or  vehicles  are  of  such  weights  as 
have  been  agreed  upon  or  required  by  the  match  or 
handicap,  and  the  riders,  or  drivers,  who  shall  carry 
during  the  race  and  bring  home  with  them  the 
weights  which  have  been  pronounced  correct  and 
proper  by  the  judges,  there  shall  be  no  penalty  at- 
tached to  any  party  for  light  weight  in  that  heat, 


210 

provided  ttie  judges  are  satisfied  of  their  mistake, 
and  that  there  has  been, no  deception  on  the  part  of 
the  rider  or  driver  who  shall  be  deficient  in  weight, 
but  all  parties  thereafter  shall  carrj^  full  weight. 

28. —  All  races  shall  be  started  at  3  o'clock  p.  M., 
from  the  1st  day  of  April  to  the  15th  day  of  Sep- 
tember ;  and  after  that  date,  at  2  o'clock  P.  M.,  until 
the  season  closes. 

29. —  All  races  to  which  the  Association  adds 
money  shall,  be  started  from  the  new  stand.  Also 
all  matches,  unless  otherwise  agreed  upon  by  parties 
making  said  matches,  in  which  case  they  shall  give 
the  proprietor  three  days'  notice  of  their  agreement 


Betting^  Rules. 

1. — All  bets  are  understood  to  relate  to  the  purse, 
or  stake,  or  match,  if  nothing  be  said  to  the  contrary 
at  the  time  of  making  the  bet. 

2. — A  bet  made  on  a  horse  is  void,  if  the  horse 
betted  on  does  not  start. 

3. — Horses  shall  be  placed  in  a  race,  and  bets  de- 
cided as  they  are  placed  in  the  official  records. 

4. — When  a  race  is  postponed  beyond  the  first 
day  published  for  it  to  come  off,  all  by -bets,  except 
they  are  play  or  pay,  shall  be  off. 

5. — A  bet  made  during  the  running  of  a  heat  is 
not  determined  until  the  race  is  over,  if  the  heat  is 
not  mentioned  at  the  time  of  making  the  bet. 


211 

6. — When  a  play  or  pay  bet  is  made  on  a  horse 
or  horses,  they  must  start,  or  the  partj  betting  on 
them  loses. 

7. — Either  of  the  bettors  may  in  person  demand 
stakes  to  be  made,  and  on  a  refusal  declare  the  bet 
to  be  void. 

8. — Outside  bets  cannot  be  declared  off  on  the 
course,  unless  that  place  was  named  for  staking  the 
money,  before  the  race  should  take  place,  and  then 
it  must  be  done  by  filing  such  declaration  in  writing 
with  the  judges,  who  shall  read  it  from  the  stand 
before  the  race  commences,  and  demand  if  any  per- 
son will  make  stakes  for  the  absent  party,  and  if  no 
person  consent  to  do  so,  the  bet  may  be  declared 
void. 

9. — ^When  a  bet  is  made  on  one  horse  against  the 
field,  he  must  start,  or  the  bet  is  off,  and  the  field  is 
what  starts  against  him  ;  but  there  is  no  field  unless 
one  start  against  him. 

10. — When  a  bet  is  made  between  two  horses, 
they  both  must  start,  or  the  bet  is  oK 

11. — A  person  betting  odds  has  a  right  to  choose 
a  horse  on  the  field,  and  when  he  has  chosen  his 
horse,  the  field  is  whatever  starts  against  him,  but 
there  is  no  field  unless  one  or  more  start  with  him. 

12. — Parties  wishing  all  the  horses  to  start  for  a 
bet  must  so  name  it  at  the  time  the  bet  is  made. 

13. — If,  in  the  final  heat  of  a  race,  there  be  but 


212 

one  horse  placed,  no  horse  shall  be  considered  as 
second  in  the  race. 

14. — All  races  made  play  or  pay,  outside  bets  not 
to  be  considered  play  or  pay,  ualess  so  understood 
by  the  parties. 

15. — If  a  race  of  a  single  dash  at  any  distance  is 
made,  and  the  horses  make  a  dead  heat,  the  race  is 
a  draw. 

16. — When  a  bettor  undertakes  to  place  the  horses 
in  a  race,  he  must  give  each  a  specific  place,  as  first, 
second,  third,  and  so  on.  The  word  "last"  shall  not 
be  construed  to  mean  fourth  and  distanced,  if  four 
start,  bat  fourth  only,  and  so  on.  A  distanced  horse 
must  be  placed  distanced. 

17. — If  a  bet  is  made  on  any  number  of  straight 
heats,  and  there  is  a  dead  heat  made,  the  heats  are 
not  straight,  and  the  party  betting  on  straight  heats 
loses. 

18. — It  is  optional  with  the  judges  of  the  race  to 
decide  disputes  left  to  their  arbitration  by  bettors, 
but  it  is  their  duty  to  decide  disputes  between  par- 
ties to  the  race. 

19. — When  a  bet  is  made  between  two  or  more 
horses  in  a  race,  and  neither  wins  a  heat,  nor  makes 
a  dead  heat,  and  neither  is  distanced,  the  horse  com- 
ing out  ahead  in  the  last  beat  is  best.  A  hurse  dis- 
tanced in  a  dead  heat  is  beaten  by  one  that  i.s  drawn 
at  the  termination  of  the  same  heat.     A  lim'se  wmk- 


213 

ing  a  dead  heat  is  better  than  one  not  winning  a 
heat,  nor  making  a  dead  heat,  if  neith.er  is  distanced 
or  both  distanced  in  the  same  ^  heat.  A  distanced 
horse,  although  having  made  a  heat  or  won  a  heat, 
is  beaten  by  a  horse  that  is  not  distanced,  or  dis- 
tanced in  a  succeeding  heat. 

20. — Betting  on  Time. — When  a  race  is  coming 
off,  and  a  party  bets  that  a  heat  will  be  made  in  two 
minutes  and  thirty  seconds  (2.30),  and  they  shall 
make  two-thirty  (2.30),  he  would  win.  If  he  bets 
they  will  beat  two  minutes  and  thirty  seconds  (2.30), 
and  they  make  exactly  two-thirty  (2.30),  he  loses; 
but  if  he  takes  two  minutes  and  thirty  seconds  (2.30) 
against  the  field,  and  they  make  exactly  two-thirty 
(2.30),  it  is  a  tie  or  draw  bet.  All  time  bets  are 
decided  accordingly. 

21. — Horses  drawn  before  the  conclusion  of  a  race 
shall  be  considered  distanced. 

22. — Bets  between  outside  bettors  are  void  on  the 
decease  of  either  party. 

23. — All  horses  that  are  ruled  out  or  drawn  before 
the  conclusion  of  a  race,  shall  be  considered  distanced, 
in  betting  and  placing,  unless  the  contrary  is  speci- 
fied at  the  time  the  bet  is  made. 

24. — In  pools  and  pool-betting,  the  pool  stands 
good  for  all  the  horses  that  start  in  the  race ;  but  for 
those  horses  that  do  not  start,  the  money  must  be 
returned  to  the  purchaser. 


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